hog.. i would relate your failure to the quality of stock usually sent from arbor day ... OP.. see link about planting in clay.. you should plant high ... to allow a new plant.. time to put its roots where it can cope with whatever is thrown at it ... and that link should discuss why we USUALLY do not amend a planting hole .... this is a nearly indestructible plant ... and i dont understand why a little temporary water would make a difference ... something is missing from the facts presented ... have you ever done a perk test in this area ... how fast will water drain in the wet season??? .. and when is the wet season.. and how does that relate to cold/frost/freeze issues???? [could it be a cold issue instead of a wet issue??]... mine leafs out so late in MI.. that frost/freeze is not an issue.. but if yours is out early.. etc ... and what zone are you.. i dont think NC is z10???? ken Here is a link that might be useful: link

Thanks John, Durling uses C-35 for their Standards in general. I assume they don't use it for all cultivars. I've been using mostly Vigoro Citrus on the mature Citrus and Avocado planted in the ground. My backyard used to be a citrus grove but I've not tested my soil. I've just received some Jack's 25-5-15 but if the Meyers prefer 3-1-2 ratio instead of 5-1-3, I can do that easily as the two Meyer Standards will be making one big espalier. The citrus I've potted are getting Vigoro in the pot and Foliage Pro as a foliar. FP is 3-1-2 ratio plus Micros. I adjust the water for the potted ones to PH 5-6 at Ieast every third watering as my water is PH 8-8.5. I noticed the potted LImes want more N than that. Below is a pic of the center of the problem Meyer. Light green leaves instead of dark. Starting of yellow veins. Some curling. All 10-15mm fruit turning yellow or black. 20mm fruit still green as is tiny fruit that just set. Black fruit and just set tiny fruit are in center of picture.

Fran really I had NO trouble with either of them. I just use a shallow pan or plastic shoe box and sow on the surface and cover with vermiculite and mist daily I had them both to germinate within 7-10 days. I have grown many times. Black moundry I have, but would have welcomed more from tammy, my seeds that I started this year I already had plans for, but blue fescue you can winter sow also I did last year, but this year started some in greenhouse in August they were in gallon pots by jan. Second sowing which you are getting was Feb and they are now in 4 inch pots, but could easily go up. HMMM did you sow on the surface. I have found that with grass seed it is imperative to use pans and not plugs or divided seed start containers. Just fill a container with dirt and they love it. I did not use bottom heat for the blue fescue, but did for the moundry. Black mondo which I was looking for is just a black mondo grass. Thompson and Morgan has seeds I may try it is so expensive for plugs, the same for Japanese Forest GRass, but I guess I will have to bite the bullet in the fall. NEW REQUEST Lotus from DON and Spider lily if you have anymore please. Here are my offers that are confirmed please not some will have to be mailed out later PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF I MISSED ANYONE AS I WILL BE MOVING THESE TO A SEPERATE AREA SO I DON"T GET THEM MIXED IN WITH RETAIL> Tammy Purple Fountain Grass Dwarf Umbrella Palm Water Hyacinth confirmed Marian Lemon Grass Purple Iris Aquawise Fiber Optic Grass Pony Tail Indian Grass Lemon grass Becky Dwarf Umbrella Palm Anacharis Bigmoma4ever Anacharis Wendy Lemon Grass Purple Fountain Grass Dwarf Sweet Flag Fiber Optic Grass Ruby Grass Dwarf Umbrella Palm Anacharis Water Hyacinth confirmed Water Lettuce confirmed Mouse Lemon Grass Pony Tail Grass Indian Grass Fran Blue Fescue Pony Tail Lemon Grass Indian Grass Sweet Flag Ruby Grass: Chinese Silver grass: Carex Prairie Fire sedge Dwarf Umbrella Palm Corkscrew Rush Pickeral Rush Water Hyacinth confirmed Water Lettuce confirmed I will send you some daylilys also. Chris Blue Fescue Pony Tail Lemon Grass Indian Grass Purple Fountain Grass Ruby Grass Chinese Silver Grass Carex Prairie Fire Sedge Bunny Tail Grass Dwarf Umbrella Palm Corkscrew Anacharis Pickeral Rush Water Hyacinth confirmed Water Lettace Confirmed Dixietn Pony Tail Lemon Grass Indian Grass Purple Fountain Grass Corkscrew Don water lettuce when available I will mail out need address water hyacinth when available I will mail out need address Blue Fescue Ponytail Lemon Grass Fiber Optic Grass Dwarf Umbrella Palm Hope everyone is well. I would have been on sooner but when we got back from New york the air was broken, then that night laid down to sleep and couldn't I heard a popping noise saw a flash and the tv had shorted out, by the time i got up to unplug it it...

Nord, my definition of wet feet relates to those varieties that are under water, which happened from time to time in certain areas of the field where I grew hundreds of tomato plants. I expect to see yellowed foliage when we've had lots of rain as we have this summer, I'm not that far from you, and of late it's been cool as well, but I see a warming trend coming up. If you were to look at many of my plants, now grown in Gro-bags in the backyard, with good drainage holes, you'd see that the majority of them do have a lot of yellow foliage, which I expect, and when the sun shines and the temps go up I know they'll be green again and grow just fine. One of the major lessosn I learned from under water plants is that different varieties have different capacities to withstand too much water. When soils are waterlogged the roots can't take up much oxygen or nutrients. But a few of the varieties did better than others and I think it's b'c transport within the plant is not the same with all varieties. But we already know that's true in terms of those varieties that are more susceptible to BER, which is a transport issue, not from root uptake but from transport of Ca++ within the plant. Last year I didn't get fruits off half of my plants, but was spared Late Blight probably b'c I knew it was around early and had Freda, who now has to do all my gardening for me, start with Daconil alternating with copper. And the year before, 2008 wasn't that much better as to fruit yield, etc., b'c it was so cold and rainy as well. So my fingers are crossed for this summer, but already my plants are behind what they should be. Carolyn