I'm just outside of Madison, so a little south of you. By mid-August I will direct sow Spinach, Bok Choi, Snow Peas, Daikon Radishes, Mustard Greens and at least one row of Beans. I've learned that mid-August is about as late as I can plant and still expect a crop, this still gives you 6 - 8 weeks. The Radishes keep going until the ground is frozen and last year I made Daikon Kimchee on Thanksgiving day with fresh dug Radishes. If the Spinach isn't real productive I mulch it heavily and then have really early spring Spinach. By planting mid-August you get quick germination and by Labor Day temps are starting to drop and you don't get the bolting. Good luck. Steve

When you say your soil is poor, what do you mean? Poor as in little nutrients or poor as in hard as a rock and compacted like cement? Do you *want* to grow in containers? ;-) I really love container growing and find it solves a lot of in ground growing problems. It is more work with watering and fertilizing, but much less work with weeds and containers can be located close to the kitchen door which means you keep a better eye on them and spot problems quickly. Container sizes largely depend on how much of something you want. For lettuce I often use trough shaped containers that are 6" wide, 6" deep and 30" long. For varieties that I want to grow to full size I plant every 6" and for 'cut and come again' types I just scatter seed and 'mow' them when I want some. Carrots can be planted 2" apart so just do the math to figure how large (surface area) you want the container to be. The critical part for carrots is depth. You generally want *at least* 12" of depth to get straight carrots. A rubbermaid tote of sufficient depth with a couple drainage holes will work well. Broccoli and Cauliflower I would use a 5 gallon bucket for each plant although I have not grown either in a container so this is just my speculation. You might like to browse through some of the posts on the Container Gardening Forum to get some ideas on what to use for growing medium, watering and fertilizing.

One other option for spring and fall crops is the "Sweetheart" variety. I recently ordered from BerriesUnlimited, but skipped this, as the price for a tiny start was 2+ times that charged for others of the same size (and the same or more as a 1 gal older plant...). But it sounds interesting and I may try it someday. from the BerriesUnlimited URL: "Sweetheart is a new USDA release- Super Blueberry bush- Two crops: late Spring and Fall. The bushes yield 25% more than Duke or apx 15 lbs, per bush, per year. Early ripening, superior flavor, very good firmness and excellent productivity with large fruits, 1,6 g ( the Grandfather of the plant is the Patriot berry). This plant represents a decade of research from the US Department of Agriculture Research, Education, and Economics Agricultural Research Service. This new Blueberry is a cross between Northern and Southern high bushes although hardiness zone is still questionable. Apx Zone 4-8" Here is a link that might be useful: Sweetheart from Berries Unlimited

I suggest slit seeding then topdress. I use a thin coating of peat moss to protect the seed. You can start using organics next summer to add organic matter to the soil. If you do not have bare soil showing, Bag mow at 1". Adjust the verticutter (fixed blade slitseeder) to just above soil height and do a run. (just as good as using a detatcher). Follow by bag mowing at 1" again or leafrake the dead matter. Broadcast spread seed. Reset the verticutter (slitseeder) at 1/8- 1/4" depth and ,make two passes )second at 45 degree angle to first pass). Roll lawn (optional but recommended). Spread thin layer of topdressing (just enough to cover any bare seed) Apply a starter fertilizer at 1/2 suggested bag rate. Keep soil damp (2-3 light waterings daily.) Once majority of seed germinates, water twice a week at 1/2" water per applicaton. Apply second application of starter fertilizer. After third mowing adjust watering to once a week at 1" (rain and watering total). Between late October to late November add winterizer fertilizer. Next Spring apply pre-emergent. then organics monthly as you can afford until late August then synthectics Sept, Oct. and Nov.