I've seen more freezes than I care to remember. If there is no browning of the female flower parts you are good to go. It sounds like you had only minor damage at most.

Remember Japanese plum flowers cover the trees. At 25 degrees there is about 90% kill. That's still enough left for a decent crop.

In the Catskills it happens every year except for last. The coldest air flows down the hill and there mostly is crop at the top. This is good the coons don't get up above 13 feet step ladders do!

I also seen frozen Japanese plums having better survival rates than the charts show. Though many get a little deformed.
The apple blooms get nailed by the late frosts and the plums are ok. Then a couple apples rebloom later on new growth or dormant buds I am not sure and there is a crop amazing!

This year is uncharted territory. I've got fruit set on trees that normally might not even have bloomed yet. I know more or less what to expect for April freezes in normal years, when the trees can be expected to be in flower. But how do, say, one-inch apricots react to 30 degrees?

That just doesn't normally happen here.

"uncharted territory" -- I think that's the best assessment of this situation I've heard yet.

I remember the year back in the 1990s when my apricots were in full bloom on Mother's Day and it snowed about 4" and then dropped to 22 degrees that night under clear skies. That was in May. This year, they were in full bloom March 19th. Wild.

Uncharted- but there are lots of charts! Thank you Fruitnut for your experience and Ace as well.

My J. plums still look absolutely beautiful as the cool weather we're having now is extending the bloom. I shall see this as a hopeful sign.

Maybe the charts are precise in terms of the temperature the buds or flowers receive while I only get a reading where the sensor is. Common sense says duration has to be a factor as well.

I still haven't pruned a few of my plum trees and will leave them alone until I am sure that all the fruit isn't on the tips of highest branches, which I would otherwise remove. Won't hurt to prune them late anyway- if it slows them a bit it won't matter. I haven't touched my peaches so I guess I'll wait on them as well. The problem with this strategy is that it wasn't really a still convection freeze and there was some breeze stirring things up.

I hope to write and read stories of successful harvests in the months ahead from all of us who suffered this round of untimely frost. Good luck.

The charts - the charts I've seen - all end at petal fall or maybe shuck split. If we get a freeze this year in May, the fruit development might be where you'd expect it to be in June. I don't know of a chart for that.

It happened here 2 years ago where it dropped to about 27 in mid-may when small fruit had already formed. Some neighbors in colder spots lost everything, including apples while it was my peaches and nects. that were most severely affected. Better sites saw no damage.

The damaged fruit grew for a while and then stopped when they reached the size of golf balls where they stayed until undamaged fruit began to ripen and then the green golf balls rotted and made BR control difficult on the good peaches. Shortly thereafter green stinkbugs attacked almost all peaches and pears, but that's another story.

No one from Cornell gave any heads up on this being a possible consequence of the freeze so I assume it is rare to get these particular symptoms although it happened at a couple of other sites I manage that year. I guess every freeze is different.

I posted a picture of the dead apple blooms after it went to 22F. The damage started to show the next day and it was obvious. These are June-July apples.

The peach buds were barely showing pink for the most part and they lived, the few that were slightly more opened, did open but you could see they were in trouble when compared with the rest.

All my plum trees are new so no help on those.

Green fruit will take about 30F. Often at that stage there are enough leaves to help protect the fruit. In TX the damage usually comes after bloom starts until there is small green fruit. You guys will be setup for a late freeze after the fruit gets a bit of size.

Damage is usually easily seen as soon as the fruit thaws out. The ovuale turns brown and that fruit is toast. Apples and pears are prone to some fruit that survives but has frost rings or other deformities. This occurs with frost after petal fall.