Don't leave them in a hot car. Water before you leave. Put them in a box or something to protect the spikes. Not much different than transporting any other plant. The only thing which will hurt the flowers would be a hot or cold car or getting knocked over. Jane

Had lots and lots of fun yesterday. Collected another 1 cubic yard of really good compost (27 cubic feet). Last time I did that was about a year ago. Thought I'd post in the same thread from last year. Used my Camry again to haul the stuff, but this year, I made 2 trips to haul the cubic yard--much friendlier on the car's suspension. Can't believe I was able to fit a full cubic yard of compost into my car last year. Won't do that again though. Yesterday I loaded from 60 to 66 percent of the cubic yard into the car for the first trip and I loaded the remaining compost in the second trip. Much, much better to do it that way. In fact, a 50/50 split may have been even better. It's hard to gauge the 50/50 mark though on a cubic yard. Went to STL Compost in Fenton again, just outside St. Louis county. Got their Field and Turf compost again, instead of their Black Gold, even though I'll mostly be using it in the vegetable garden, not so much on the lawn. IIRC, last year their Black Gold smelled a bit, meaning it wasn't really ready yet to be used as compost, but I didn't detect much, if any, bad smell this year from their Black Gold. Their Bessie's Best is part manure and their premium is a mix of Black Gold and Bessie's Best, IIRC. I think the Field and Turf is like the Black Gold but finer for lawn use. Still their Field and Turf worked great in my vegetable garden last year. Lots and lots of tomatoes, eggplants, squash, string(?) beans, basal, parsley, finnochio (fennel?), and it was all top quality. Good compost seems to help so much. I stored the compost in my garage overnight, because I was too tired yesterday to move it behind the bushes. Later today I'll take it all outside. Nice thing is this compost does NOT smell bad at all. It's been in my closed garage all night, and not a hint of foul smell. This is really good compost! This year I fit the cubic yard into about 28 or 30 big plastic bags. Last year it was just about 20 or 22 plastic bags. It's much, much better to use 30 bags than 20 bags, because each bag is much lighter and easier to carry by hand. My back thanked me. I pushed the compost into the bags with an oversized rubber glove. Much easier than shoveling. Important thing to do, as I may have mentioned last year in this thread, is to control the opening of the plastic bag with a 5-gallon bucket whose bottom has been cut out. Lay the bucket sideways on the ground with the plastic bag attached behind, and just shove compost into the bucket-bag combo. You can work fast that way--much better than a shovel, I think, like that YouTube person recommended. I think I may have provided a link to the YouTube video last year in this thread, or in a different thread. It took about 15 to 17 rubber-gloved shoves of compost to fill each bag to the right weight for me. Twenty or more shoves caused the bags to be too heavy and not easy to carry. Last year, I used 2-millimeter thick bags that were much tougher to tear. This year I used 1-millimeter thick plastic bags, and must have torn 5. Don't use 1-millimeter thick bags (go for 2 mm) because you can even tear the thinner bags while your handling them with just your hands inside your car, not just on the abrasive ground. My hands tore a hole in a bag just while lifting the bag when it was already inside my car's trunk, to reposition the bag. Two millimeters will save you time and energy. Once a bag is torn, you have to place it inside a second bag. I can't emphasize enough how much happier you will be using 2-millimeter thick bags over 1-millimeter. It took me about 2 hours to shove 60 to 66 percent of the cubic yard of compost into the plastic bags, and about another 1 hour to shove the remaining third of the cubic yard on my second car trip. So the glove-shoving alone took about 3 hours, then there's drive-time to add onto that, and unloading the bags from the car, and the preparation, etc. I also ate and rested a bit between the two trips. All-in-all it was about a 5-hour project for a cubic yard. Last year, I did it when it was nice and warm. This year it was windy and cold, probably between 45* F and 55* F. Much better to do it when warm, and not windy.

I just did the reverse trip moving from MI (ultimately from PA) to Ca. In the research I did for moving some of my plants this is what I found out. CA has the most restrictions about moving plants into it, PA doesn't have much of anything. If you want to check things out more contact your local state agriculture officers they can find out for sure what issues there may be and what you can do about it. I moved most of my plants in the cab of the Penske truck with me or in the backseat of my Fiance's car. I kept them in the sunlight so that they wouldn't be in the dark for days at a time. Where in Pa are you moving to? I'm from the Pittsburgh area and still have family over there.

I just looked at the width of my butt, and I really think that you can get that plant into the back seat of your car. As Beth says, wrap it so the leaves don't break off. I'd use bubble wrap wound tightly around it and then secured with duct tape. If you do a good job of wrapping, you can even lay the potted plant on its side in the trunk while traveling; just don't let it roll back and forth or it might upchuck some soil. Pineapples are temperature-sensitive, so keep it warm while travelling. The plant might survive severely trimmed leaves but it will likely pout for a year or two, if not actually going into a terminal decline.