Applying Hollytone fertilizer to young blueberries

12 years ago

All,

I planted a bunch of blueberries last spring and am planting more this Spring, I want to fertilize them to get them off to a good start (at least the ones that will have been in the ground for a year this Spring). I plan on using Hollytone since I have a big bag of it in my garage already.

1) How much Hollytone do you add (topically) to your recently established blueberry plants (mine are 1-3' tall, but not wide at all) per plant (ie. 1 cup per plant)? I figured that I would add pine mulch on top of the fertilizer this Spring so as to not disturb the shallow roots.

2) How do you incorporate Hollytone into planting bareroot blueberries, if at all?

Thanks in advance!

Featured Answer

Bradybb WA-Zone8

12 years ago

Hi lindsgarden,
I used Hollytone last year when growing some Blueberries.I most likely followed the directions for new plantings,which I think it said to mix some in the planting medium.It is fairly mild and slow acting,so there probably isn't much danger in over doing it if moderation is used.
I've since went to other fertilizers like Ammonium Sulfate or a combination of hydrolyzed fish,kelp and molasses.
But I recently purchased 40 pounds of Hollytone because of a good price and am going to try it for Serviceberry and Pawpaws and I may give some to the Blueberries too.
It's probably best to go out from the crown about 12-24 inches and make a little trough or ditch around the plants about 2 inches deep and sprinkle some fertilizer in there.This can be done before a rain or water it in yourself.If there is mulch,try to pull it back first.
Here is a PDF link from Just Fruits and Exotics about using Hollytone for Blueberries. Brady

Here is a link that might be useful: JF Blueberry

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Comments (13)

john_in_sc
12 years ago
I use the stuff too... Hollytone "Azalea, Cammelia, and Rhododendron" fertilizer...

I just sling a cup or so under the plants in the spring.. Maybe more for larger bushes.... It's mostly blood and bone meal - so precise application isn't as critical as it is for "Synthetic" fertilizers....

My biggest problem is that my dog likes to eat the stuff... and then he fertilizes the yard rather than the blueberries...

Thanks
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Below is from the University of North Carolina......you will see the experts recommend fertilizer the first year. You will find no university in this nation that recommends no fertilizer the first year. You have to amend the soil if you want quick growth. Fertilization a) Use Caution - Blueberries are easily damaged by excess fertilizer. Apply the recommended amount from a soil test report and allow 4 inches of rain or an equivalent amount of irrigation between applications. b) First Year - Do not fertilize immediately after planting. Wait until the first leaves have reached full size, then apply 1 Tbs of a special azalea fertilizer, 12-12-12 or 10-10-10 within a circle 1 foot from the plants. Repeat application of fertilizer at 6 week intervals depending upon rainfall or irrigation until mid-August in the Coastal Plain and mid-July in the Mountains. Use 1/2 Tbs of ammonium nitrate instead of the complete fertilizer for the second and subsequent applications if phosphorus was above 60 on the soil test. c) Second Year - Double the first year's rates, but increase the circle around plants to 1 1/2 ft . Apply the first application when new growth begins in spring. d) Bearing Plants - When growth begins in the spring, apply 1 cup of complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 within a circle 3 ft from the plant. If more vigorous growth is desired, sidedress with 1/4 cup of ammonium nitrate at 6 week intervals. On mature bushes 6 to 12 inches of new growth is adequate for optimal balance of plant size and yield. Additional growth must be pruned away. This may result in a loss in production, but it is necessary to keep the plants from becoming excessively large. Determine sidedressing requirement based on the amount of shoot growth. e) Lowering pH - If the soil pH is slightly high in an established planting based on a soil test; then sidedress with ammonium sulfate rather than ammonium nitrate. If the pH is 0.5 units or more above the acceptable range, apply wettable sulfur in a narrow band under the drip line of the bush at the rate of 0.1 lb per bush to lower pH 1 unit. Here is a link that might be useful: University of North Carolina
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Anything composting around your plants can pull N from the soil until properly broken down. I mulch around my fruit trees with grass clippings maybe 3 or 4 times a year but my main reason is for a more natural way of weed reduction around the base instead of using sprays all the time. Another added benefit mulch has is it also attracts worms. The down side is, worms attract birds, so I avoid when fruit is ripening. Also when I do much I also add sheep pellets to help against the initial N reduction. & one thing I didn't see here, so I must mention is grass clippings can make the soil more acidic which is great for the Blueberries but not so much for my other trees, so to battle against that I just add a little dusting of lime also. Lime helps to neutralize acidic soil. Best advice though is educate yourself on the needs of each type of tree, & buy a soil testing kit. Once you know the soil is right for the trees you can then look at other reasons that may be causing problems. Every place around the world is going to be different so I enjoy experimenting with my trees to see what gets me the best results every year. Of course taking into account that you always have an, "on season" then an "off season".
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Instructions for application should be spelled out clearly on the package label. Methods differ depending on product. If you are referring to the Espoma Soil Acidifier, the instructions are quite clear: "Apply in the spring to lower soil pH. For new plants use 1-1/4 cups. For established plants use 2-1/2 cups. Spread evenly around the plant out to the drip line and water well. Repeat in 60 day intervals until desired pH or bloom color is achieved." It is important to understand that this Espoma product is NOT a fertilizer - it is a soil amendment and IMO, not a necessary one for your situation. If you want to use an Espoma product, use the Holly-Tone instead. This IS a fertilizer and will supply both the nutrients required as well as mild acidifiers.
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
12 years ago
its so mild.. its basically idiot proof .. including the dog . .. lol ...

but you should read the bag ... for information precise to what is in the bag ...

ken
grizz299
10 years ago
I believe that Hollytone achieves acidity through Aluminum Sulfate.
. Al. is common in soil but its effectively locked up. In the free form it is toxic and even run off is to be discouraged
My research on the web (never 100% reliable) suggests it is particularly destructive to the very fine root system of the blueberry bush .
I have written Espoma, but suggest this prod. should be avoided. Maybe best to do your own research.
drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
10 years ago
"I believe that Hollytone achieves acidity through Aluminum Sulfate. "

That is incorrect, elemental sulfur, no Aluminum Sulfate in the product.

"Maybe best to do your own research."

Now that is just ironic!!
grizz299
9 years ago
I was careful to say I "believe" that HT uses Al Sulphate and the "do your own ...." was meant to qualify me, not the marketplace.
Sonoma makes and markets al sulphate (wrongfully I think) THEY DO NOT USE IT In HOLLYTONE. What they do use is "elemental sulphur" which is consistent with their organic label.
. Mia Culpa
kyyada
9 years ago
I used Gardentone about two ~ three cups a plant but they are larger than yours about four and a half feet, I put it on top of the wood mulch and then re-mulched them with last years wood chips ran through a shredder and they are doing great and are loaded with berries. I don't know what the ph is....I think the mulch is solving that issue.

This post was edited by kyyada on Sun, May 18, 14 at 10:46
drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
9 years ago
I believe it is possible for monkeys to fly out of my butt, you know like the ones in the Wizard of Oz.
You went so far as to write the company to tell them to avoid something they are not using. Sorry, that is kinda funny. Espoma is family owned, the original family that started the company in 1929 still owes it, great company.
Sonoma makes furniture, unless you meant Napa Sonoma that make adult beverages, or Sonoma County Sheep Co
Also the Sonoma Wool Company, and Williams-Sonoma makes cookware.

I can't find any product that Espoma makes with aluminum.

I did though find one reference to aluminum
"Adjust the pH if necessary. If the test says soil is too alkaline, add a product that contains sulfur such as Espoma Soil Acidifier. ItÃ¢ÂÂs safe, long lasting and better than aluminum sulfate. If the test says itÃ¢ÂÂs too acidic, add a safe, pelletized lime product like Espoma Garden Lime. Always follow application instructions."

It appears they do not market or make any aluminum sulfate, and you didn't preface the statement with the word "believe"

This post was edited by Drew51 on Sun, May 18, 14 at 11:01
Scott F Smith
9 years ago
Drew, mea culpa means "my fault", I think you are beating a dead horse.

I use as much Holly Tone as I can grab in my hand on each bush, sprinkled around. I've had great yields for ten years so it can't be too far off.

Scott
drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
9 years ago
I know what it means, but yet another untrue statement was made. Espoma does not market aluminum sulfate in any product. Despite the 2nd suggestion it does. Best when in a hole to stop digging. My response was to the 2nd untrue statement, as I felt it best to correct the record once again. I'll stop beating the horse when it stays down.
Please no more false accusations about the Espoma company.

Sorry, I just really also like the product. It's great because big box stores carry it, and so many insist on shopping at them. At least they have a fantastic organic alternative to offer the masses. A family business too, it just really upsets me when people so willingly will throw the baby out with the bath water. Both statements were careless and destructive to a good company, and I'm highly offended by those statements. OK, I'll get off my soap box now.
hoosier318
9 years ago
I just bought some Holly Tone for my blueberry bushes too. I saw this product promoted and did see some great results because of it on YouTube. After reading all the posts I am kind of confused as to how much to use on existing blueberries and ones going in pots. Also going to mix 1/3 peat, 1/3 potting soil, and 1/3 fine pine bark mulch for the blueberries I am potting-does this sound sensible? Have heard varying remarks as to how many bushes per pot-have seen from anywhere from 1-4 in a 20 gallon pot? It has taken me several times on the blueberries as the first time the rabbits had lunch on 18 that I planted several years back in the fall. Smarter on those this time around as they are getting chicken wire fencing, even though I haven't seen any rabbits lately as the new neighbors have dogs. I am persistent and want to grow blueberries as I really love them!! Ohh have 2 Kablueys, 2 Bluecrop, and 2 Elizabeth in the garden. Potting 2 Chandler, 2 Bluecrop, ! Earliblue, and 1 Tophat in pots.
grizz299
9 years ago
I did qualify with " I believe"
I did write them immediately and issue a retraction
. And of course you are wrong: they do market ALUMINUN sulphate. In fact that's what prompted me to conclude that they might use it in hollytone.
. The only thing you wrote that made sense was about the monkeys flying out of your butt.
And if the source material I've read about Aluminium Sulphate is true, Espoma shouldn't be marketing the stuff at all and should have a special disclaimer about blueberries, since the stuff, according to several sources, is particularly destructive to the fibrous blueberry roots.
I grow some two hundred blueberries in Mass. And NY. I've purchased from some 8 different websites and cruise all of them. Only Nourse Farms talks about the danger of the Aluminate form.
describingcolor
last year
As someone that typically uses other products to acidy my soil for blueberries (Soil Acidifier, watering adding highly diluted vinegar, etc.), I am new to Holly-tone. I read more about it and purchased Holly-tone recently. Coming across this site in researching application/tips, I appreciate Drew setting the record straight. If we can’t trust everything we read on the internet, what can we trust?! ;-) There’s enough misinformation out there, without quality, self-policed forums adding to it. Grizz initially created doubt in my mind about the product I just bought; appreciate someone adamantly setting the record straight. Even with the mea culpa, there was still more confusion added. Also, not sure why ”ALUMINUN” is yelled in CAPS. Is this a different product from the aluminum variety? While this thread is old, it was a top hit for my search. Never know how long what you add to the internet will stay relevant. Keep it real.

Applying Hollytone fertilizer to young blueberries

Bradybb WA-Zone8

Comments (13)

john_in_sc

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