Whitman Farms is selling a new gooseberry cultivar named Jeanne which seems very promising.Following is a discription of the plant: The Agricultural Research Service announces the naming and release of a disease and pest resistant, high quality, dark-red, dessert gooseberry cultivar, JEANNE. Ribes uva-crispa L. cv. JEANNE is a late-ripening, dark red, dessert gooseberry with an unknown mixed European/American gooseberry pedigree. This plant was tested under the selection number O. T. 126, CRIB 11, ad PI 555830, which was donated to the USDA ARS National Clonal Germplasm Repository in 1981 from the Ribes collection maintained in collaboration between USDA and Oregon State University, Department of Horticulture, in Corvallis, Oregon. JEANNE should be suitable for commercial gooseberry production or home plantings. Flowers and Fruit In Corvallis, Oregon, JEANNE is a late blooming, late-ripening, dark red gooseberry. In most years, first leaf occurs in late March, full bloom occurs mid- to late-April, seven days to two weeks later than 'Malling Invicta' or 'Captivator'. The flowers are Plant JEANNE has an upright growth habit with some sprawling lower branches. Plants grow to a moderate size of about 1m x 1 m. The leaves are glossy green in spring and summer. Some branches have an occasional single spine per node. The spines are about 0.9 cm. Fruit Quality The fruit taste is full and sweet, improved over 'Captivator'. Fruit quality measurements for mid-July 2005 are as follows: pH = 3.3, titratable acidity = 1.85 g citric acid/100g berries, and oBrix =16.6, total anthocyanins = 19.7 mg/100g berries (expressed as cyanidin-3-glucoside), total phenolics = 128.4 mg/100g berries (expressed as gallic acid equivalents). Disease and Insect Resistance The leaves and fruits of JEANNE are highly resistant to powdery mildew, caused by Sphaerotheca mors-uva (Schwein). Berk. & Curt. In 1995, JEANNE was rated 1 (1 = most resistant, 9 = most susceptible) to mildew on both shoots and fruits, while 'Captivator' was rated 2 on both; 'Malling Invicta' was rated 2 for shoot mildew and 3 for fruit mildew; 'Careless' was rated 8 for shoot mildew and 9 for fruit mildew. Over the years JEANNE has remained at rating 1 for shoot and fruit mildew in Corvallis. The leaves of JEANNE are also highly resistant to white pine blister rust, caused by Cronartium ribicola Fisher. Between 1995 and 2005, no uredia formed on JEANNE under natural infection in Corvallis, Oregon. A few uredia formed on leaves of this plant after artificial inoculation in the field with 20,000 spores/ml. In Corvallis, damage from aphids or defoliation from sawflies (Pachynematus spp.) was less severe on JEANNE than in other European gooseberries. In 1995, 1996 and 1997 JEANNE was rated 1 (least affected) for sawflies, while other gooseberries, such as 'Jubilee Careless', were rated 9 (severe defoliation). .Black leaf spot, caused by Drepanopeziza ribis (Kleb.) Hohn, is visible on some leaves in summer, but does not appear to cause plant damage. Propagation JEANNE can be propagated by hardwood cuttings taken after 1000 hours of chilling has been received, or by softwood cuttings taken after bloom is finished when new growth snaps when bent sharply. The rooting percentage of cuttings is usually improved from liquid application of auxin. JEANNE was named in honor of the late Ms. Cheryl Jeanne Gunning, who worked in the tissue culture laboratory of the Corvallis Repository from 1981 to 1985. Genetic material of this release is deposited in the National Plant Germplasm System, USDA ARS National Clonal Germplasm Repository at Corvallis, Oregon, where it will be available for research purposes, including development and commercialization of new cultivars. Limited quantities of JEANNE cuttings or rooted plants are available from: Curator, USDA-ARS National Clonal Germplasm Repository, 33447 Peoria Road, Corvallis, OR 97333-2521. The Agricultural Research Service does not have plants for commercial sale.

My advice is to let it recover. There's nothing you can do at the moment that won't cause more harm. Although you are losing culms, the fact that you have new growth is a very good sign. If you go mucking around, you're going to set it back more. I'm not sure where you got that other advice, but in my experience I have never known bamboo to get root rot or become susceptible to fungus as a result of a relatively short period of overwatering. My bamboo get drenched for months on end here in the rainy Pacific NW and have no problems...in the ground or in pots. Baby yours along and they will hopefully recover. It may be a year or two before you see significant new growth, but I'm optimistic. I think you are over-analyzing at this point. Bamboo is tough and a couple of weeks of mistreatment should not affect it this severely. That's why I am wondering if the plants you got off of Craig's List might not have been badly divided and the die-off is a delayed result of the fact that they weren't as healthy as you thought. Can you please tell me what they looked like when they arrived? Specifically: How big were the plants? How big were the root balls? And how much dirt was on the roots when they arrived? Frankly, there are a lot of people selling bamboo online who don't know what they are doing, so it would be good if you could describe just what you started with, and what Zone you are in.

Thank you all SO MUCH for helping me out. As far as the leaves changing color, they became a little more yellow than normal, and just began falling. It was almost overnight and it was bare. I did notice today that there is a bit of new growth near the top!!! =) So if it is dropping older leaves, will this happen each year? Should I prune it almost to the ground? I pruned it about half in size this year (the previous owners had never pruned at all according to a neighbor) should I do it more next year? About the rain, it rained more in late May and early June: I never imagined I could have watered it to much. My perenials in that bed havent suffered (keeping my fingers crossed) except for a hydrangea that also has yellow leaves. Again, thank you all for your help. I am taking all suggestions.

You should put the tree right in front of the large southern facing window. Light coming through the window, even a few feet away is much less intense than right in front of it. I'd place the tree right next to that wooden chair so the leaves are a few inches from that window. Rotate the tree 1/4 turns weekly. as far as pruning, all you're doing here is cutting off the dead parts. scratch a small amount of bark, if it's dead, follow the branch back and keep scratching every inch or so till you see green. Cut the obvious dead branches off. roots should be firm and white to tan. If they are dark and mushy, they've rotted. Bottom line, three tree has been over watered. It may be in too large of a pot so that the soil doesn't dry enough. Remove it from the pot and check to see how wet the soil is at the bottom. Ficus seem to be able to handle drought much better then being over watered. this may give you an idea about their light requirements. Mine, pictured below, is right in front of a southern window with the addition of five 250w lights above and it still could use much more light. I place mine outside in full direct sun from Memorial Day until mid September when temps start to drop. That's the only time it thrives. The rest of the year is just tolerates. I've cut it back pretty heavily since September when it came inside. Outside last summer it was MUCH fuller: the tree above was not much larger than yours prior to being placed outside for the summer. It literally grew a few feet in every direction and produced probably 1000 extra leaves.