In 2005 earily in year I purchase 2600 psi pressure washer at lowes with gas engine I had to many pieces of equipment to wash with out one. with about 250 peachtree spray all had was 12 volt sprayer like one used on 4wheeler small boom sprayer but I have Kawasaki mule 3010 to haul it around 4ftx4ft bed there was wand on sprayer and hookup for boom. I went to hardware store pick out garden hose male and 1/2 hose took some looking to find one that small. Mix what every chemicl in 25 gallon tank according direction on label crank up pressure washer and use to spray alway spray from up wind even if have drive to spray from same end everytime. spraying time is about 5 trees per minute and sprays hold tree from one side about 10 feet back from tree. My soap spraying have to change nozzle so pressure drop to low. flusout pressure washer on last tree sprayed with garden hose attached to achive triple washout.

Not that I would use it but the dosage is 2.5 teaspoons per gallon. Note corrected spelling - Imidan - for searching info on it. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Dry Pesticide Rates for Hand-Held Sprayers

No chemicals or pesticides for years and as of the last two years, no tilling... and my garden gets better every year. The only things I use sparingly (so sparingly that I haven't used any so far this year) is an organic fungicide and some BT for controlling caterpillars (also have not used this so far). The only scary thing about using no pesticides and no herbicides is that things will always get worse before they get better. Basically, detrimental insects are the first to show up, they are opportunistic feeders and when presented with tender and delicious garden crops they will begin feasting. Their numbers will likely grow large assuming they have enough to eat and ideal conditions in other respects. Only once their numbers are fairly significant will the beneficial predatory insects begin to show up because their food (other insects) is now readily available. For my garden, the first on the scene are aphids, then come the flea beetles... Their numbers grow large, my plants leaves begin to look like they're part of a shooting range with holes all over the place. Then the ladybugs show up, then the hoverflies, then green lacewings and I get treated to the site of a praying mantis every now and then. The aphids nearly disappear, the flea beetles reduce in number so as to become non-issue and sometimes they disappear completely. Organic gardening without pesticides and herbicides is easy, once you figure out what works in your area - that's where the research and trial and error begin. The biggest thing I learned is that gardening without pesticides and herbicides means you need to plan things out and do things differently, generally at different times of year. I was always taught (non-organic) to till and add fertilizer in the spring, give your plants some "blue water" once they’re a certain size, and some more at regular intervals for the rest of the season; When the bugs show-up, spray them. For weeds, I was always told to use block material or landscape fabric, it’ll keep weeds from coming through. What I do now is no-till with mulching about 3-4 times a year using locally grown hay (preferably alfalfa hay - though it's more expensive and I generally go with a mix) maintaining a 4-6" deep layer for most of the year. The hay mulch smothers just about every weed, retains soil moisture, protects the soil life, and feeds the soil as it breaks down; It's great stuff. In the fall I top-dress my amendments: Compost made from kitchen scraps, some manure (free) from a local horse farm, chopped leaves and grass, and then hay over the top - It rots over the fall, winter, and early spring. Then (early spring) I add more hay and then I plant directly into it. By the time plants go into the soil, they have everything they need for pretty much the whole season. Mid-to-late season I'll pile on some more mulch to maintain about 4-6 inches in mulch thickness and keep the flow of food into the soil. No spraying for bugs involved in any of that. It actually works out to also be a lot cheaper since I have no real need to buy any fertilizers and to mulch 400 sq ft. of garden costs 16 dollars.

That's great information, and just what you'd expect from Linda Chalker-Scott. It's a bit hard to read here, so worth looking at the pdf file you've linked to. I have an old container of SunSpray ultra-fine horticultural oil and I've been wondering if this type of oil will keep it's qualities in storage for a long time. I recently read that it could be used to keep citrus leaf miner moths from laying their eggs on citrus leaves so I want to try it out later in the spring when the leaf miner moths come to life. I had trouble finding this ulta-fine oil online, so I've dusted off this old container just in case. (later...I just looked on eBay and found some so I may not have to use the old stuff, unless someone can tell me it should be all right...it's probably 10 years old). Thanks for bringing up this subject, I always forget about using dormant oil on my peaches until the early ones start flowering. Now's the time to start thinking about it.