Hi Billie : ) Why can't you add another layer of your grout cement to both sides and seal the whole thing? I'll be honest .... I'm looking for the lazy way out. *hangs head in shame* That & I'm not sure when I'll next make it to my sis's house -- she lives several hours away from me. [I live in an apt so I don't have anyplace to play around in the cement or in tufa.] If this is cracked all the way through it may be better to make a new birdbath. Did it crack from freezing, breakage, bad mix? Billie I really don't know. I made it late last summer and this is the first time Ive been to her place since then.

Donna --- what type of sealer did you use? The only real "concrete sealers" I've ever heard of going milky were the water-based that were applied when the crete was either uncured or damp. And, possibly under extremely humid conditions (like a dewy morning). Unfortunately, now that it's on, there not much that can be done except remove it. Sometimes laying it out in the direct sun just might kick the polymers into clearing, but that's a long shot. I'd definitely drain & dry it and let it set for a week and see what it does before breaking out the sandblasting equipment though. Try a good penetrating sealer next time. The solvent based are by far the best and can be topped with just about anything. They are also tolerant of a little moisture. In fact I intentionally seal mine, well before the cure is "complete". I believe it acts as a vapor barrier that actually keeps some of the moisture in longer during the final cure. Nothing scientific to back it up...but a really great theory and results, so far. And old-fashioned bees-wax is excellent for a final finish. I use a food-grade bees-wax to finish all my tables & such. Give a nice low sheen without looking like it was dipped in plastic and is safe for critters & people. Good luck & all my best --- Tango

I have never seen a birdbath like that. Very nice. I used the Garden Gate link & made birdbaths with the vinyl patch cement. Now I use vinyl patch cement, then put my reinforcement on, & then use regular cement for the 2nd coat. The vinyl patch cement is more expensive but very smooth & less holes so I use it on the leaf but not the 2nd coat. I've included pics of my latest cement birdbath - really huge - it's sitting on a huge sewer pipe. It's about a week old. It holds lots of water but at the deepest point it still is 1 1/2". I've also included the pic of the sand. It's hard to tell but I had to put this up to so you can learn from my mistakes. If you notice the top of the sand mount is mostly flat. I made one & it was beautiful but the birds were drowning because it was too deep. So don't make too much of a dome. It's a learning experience. My first was too flat & didn't hold hardly any water. The next was too deep & the birds were drowning. This one is just right. LOL! I had a colorant I was going to add when making cement & forgot to put it in. When it's done curing, I will put a wash on it. There were 6 birds in there yesterday taking a bath. I didn't think they would go near it with all the lime leeching out of it yet. I am changing the water a couple times a day - I don't want to hurt my birds but I'm surprised they would go in it at all with the lime. At the bottom of the page are pics of small leaves I painted with metallic paint. They are a lot smaller & sold them at a nursery this year. It was a hit & I'm busy making more small ones for next year. It paid for my grinder for my stained glass addiction. :) Here is a link that might be useful: Cement leaf

I've been at work , so not able to respond to this thread. I've been doing concrete and mosaic projects for close to ten years now. The history stones birdbath mold is a well built sturdy one. It would be a good choice for a beginner. The basin however has got a raised ring of leaves going around the middle so it would be a challenge to mosaic. Something smoother would be better. If you look on ebay you'll find a lot of choices. Sand casting is a moldless fairly easy way to do what ever shape you like. By covering your sand cast shape with a thin layer of plastic you'll get a smoother form to mosaic onto.If you are gong to make these for your self then a thin set, or standard mortar mix will be a good way to go. If you were to sell these then you would want to make them as cost effectively as possible to recoup as large a profit as possible. I have several mosaic birdbaths I've made for myself. The amount of time involved making these will make it hard for this to be profitable. The cost of the cement if you made it by scratch would be maybe 5-10.00 per birdbath. the mortar and mosaic materials, grout and sealer will all vary depending on the mosaic choices you use. The time to do this is another thing though. I've sold lots of different creations but it just doesn't make sense for you to spend your time doing it unless you get a good return. If you can, make a couple for your self then monitor your costs and the number of hours spent. I would only make more on a consignment basis. I regularily have people wanting to buy my stuff but when I tell them what I would charge they back off. In regards to the Rianna method, this will give you the freedom of making any shape you like. Again though, it is not a fast way of making things and wether you'd make enough is doubtful. Rianna says she certainly isn't making tons, it's a labor of love sometimes. I'm making a 4 foot girl using this method. I'll use 4 rolls of mesh at 18.00 per roll by the time I am done. I just have the head and a hand left to do in the mesh and it's taken me maybe a dozen hours so it'll likely be 15 when I'm done. Then the cementing, mosaicing grouting and sealing. This project will cost me 100.00-125.00 I think by the time I'm done. Maybe 40 hours involved. I'll enjoy having my sculpture in my garden . I'm not trying to discourage you but the profit potential in this is not high. Make some gorgeous creations and just enjoy them for your own use is what I'd recommend. Cindy