I look forward to the pictures!
Laura

Donna,
From what I read in a previous thread,(Tango) said that most sealers shouldn't be applied until after the concrete has a chance to cure - 28 days. Can't wait to see your pics.
Rhonda

Wait for the cure to complete is number one.A good penetrating sealer is what I'm using,then paint,but am still looking for that"final"coating that could be varethane,shellac,whatever,as I said,still looking!
cheers from here
Rick

These EE leaves were cast last fall of '05. I painted them about 2 weeks ago. So I think they are pretty dry. Like I said the first 2 coats where concrete sealant. That turned white when water was added. So I tried Shellac. It's not as white but it does show signs of looking white just where the water sits.

I wonder if tile sealer would work. I think Dena has tried a number of different products. Maybe she'll jump in and offer advice.

I'm looking forward to the pictures too.

I've used concrete sealer on several ee castings and bird baths and never had them get white or milky. I have also used the grout and tile sealer on various mosaic birdbaths and never had any milkyness either. I wonder if there is something wrong with your sealer. Most recent I sealed the inside of my sphere with a concrete sealer, let it sit for a couple of weeks before adding water. I's had water in it for several weeks now with no milkyness. Perhaps it needed more cure time before exposing it to water? Was it a water based product? I've heard of wax being used as a sealant also , but never tried that.
Cindy

Donna --- what type of sealer did you use? The only real "concrete sealers" I've ever heard of going milky were the water-based that were applied when the crete was either uncured or damp. And, possibly under extremely humid conditions (like a dewy morning).

Unfortunately, now that it's on, there not much that can be done except remove it. Sometimes laying it out in the direct sun just might kick the polymers into clearing, but that's a long shot. I'd definitely drain & dry it and let it set for a week and see what it does before breaking out the sandblasting equipment though.

Try a good penetrating sealer next time. The solvent based are by far the best and can be topped with just about anything. They are also tolerant of a little moisture. In fact I intentionally seal mine, well before the cure is "complete". I believe it acts as a vapor barrier that actually keeps some of the moisture in longer during the final cure. Nothing scientific to back it up...but a really great theory and results, so far. And old-fashioned bees-wax is excellent for a final finish. I use a food-grade bees-wax to finish all my tables & such. Give a nice low sheen without looking like it was dipped in plastic and is safe for critters & people.

Good luck & all my best --- Tango

Tango Where do you get your food-grade bees-wax? Just out of curiousity, how many people seal thier leaves before painting them? And what is your input on sealing before painting opposed to painting before sealing? I guess at times reading through the posts I have gotten the impression that painting them is part of sealing them if using a latex paint mixed in with your paints you use.
Inquiring minds want to know. (I have leaves to plant that have cured over thier 28 days) Need to get busy and paint them.
Thanks
Carol

Another thought-if you're water-based sealer is like mine,you have to make sure that the sealer is totally absorbed into the concrete,then the excess is wiped off.The excess can and will whiten as it hardens,and,like Tango says,sandblasting or grinding are your options.
On the other question just raised,I seal first,as instructed by the manufacturer.If you paint first,you block all or part of the chemical reaction that creates the seal.
Cheers from here

Carol --- Rick is absolutely right. Paint simply wont stay on concrete or any cement-based material unless it is thoroughly sealed first. Here's the problem...all cement-based materials contain water. No matter how long they have cured. And that water is always trying to get out. It will simply come up from inside, under any kind of paint and eventually break the bond between the paint & the surface. Maybe in a week...maybe in 40 years. A good, waterproofing sealer not only keeps water out...it also keeps it in. And that's what helps keep the paint on.

He is also correct in that water-based sealers are notorious for "clouding". And usually it's because of insufficiently drying before moisture gets to it. Either from the atmosphere or from the cement itself. And the greater the mass, the higher the likliehood of this occurring. Kind of like putting on too much latex at once for a mold. The top skins over quickly, which then prevents the rest of the layer from setting up properly.

As for the food-grade bees-wax, I get mine from a local food industry supplier, but you might Google it to see what else is out there.

Best of luck --- Tango

Thanks for the great explanation. I never even thought of sealing first... seemed like it would keep the paint from "sticking". I learn so much on this forum!
Laura

It looks like I'm going to have to make new leaves. Darn! Just kidding. I have learned so much from making this fountain. You know hindsight and 20/20?, When I finally temp to send pictures you will know why.

It's so funny when I show my friends. "Where did you buy this" Then the reaction when I say "I made it from leaves" Then the next question "Where does the water go? And how does it get back up to the first leaf?" I say "into the bucket that is sunk into the ground and then pumped back up to the first leaf"

I just have to get the leaves looking good.

donna