I've not found any problem with dumping them, bag and all, in or on either the compost pile or the garden soil. The bags are also biodegradable.

Newhippie, I never have sold a tomato in my life, but I give them away when I have extra. I also give away a couple hundred tomato plants every year. I grow a lot of tomatoes because we really like them and we like them in all colors (black, purple, green-when-ripe, yellow, orange, pink and red and some that are bicolors are tricolors), shapes and sizes. We eat all that we can manage to eat fresh, and with the rest I either dehydrate them (we put up several gallons of raisin-sized dehydrated bite-sized tomatoes most years), can them (as canned tomatoes, sauce and salsa....about 120 jars of salsa last year), roast them and freeze or can the roasted ones, freeze them unprocessed to use for cooking, etc. While 140 plants sounds like a lot, many of them are heirlooms that produce significantly fewer tomatoes per plant, although the fruit they produce are far superior in flavor to the heavier-bearing hybrids. I send a lot of tomatoes to work with my DH and often send them to work with our adult son. He's a firefighter and they work 24-hour shifts and cook at the station, so I send them home-grown produce as often as I can. If they can't fit the home-grown tomatoes into their schedule (maybe the tomatoes don't go with the meal they've prepared, or they're so busy that day they end up eating fast food), then some of the firefighters take them home. I never have any problem giving away "extra" tomatoes, but since one canning batch can take 20 to 24 lbs. of tomatoes in some cases, I don't have as many extras as you might think. Everyone we know gets home-canned salsa, peppers, jams and jellies, and that requires that I grow tons of tomatoes and peppers, among other things. Last year I canned over 700 jars of edible products. So many people begged for tomatoes last year that I dropped some lower-producing heirlooms and am growing a lot more hybrids to try to meet the "demand". I give away the hybrids a lot, but am very picky about who I give heirlooms to, and I don't give away very many of them. It is my goal to eat fresh tomatoes from April through December. Last year we harvested our first fresh one in April and ate our last home-grown and harvested cherry tomatoes early in February 2011. They had to sit on the counter and ripen for a couple of weeks after bitter cold temps killed the last tomato plants I still had alive in pots in the garage. This year we're right on track. I have 8 plants in containers that I've been growing since mid-February from plants purchased in 5 or 6" peat pots. All but one has set fruit (that one broke at transplant time and I rooted the top of it, so it is behind the others and just started to bloom) and the largest fruit is about the sizeof an extra-large hen's egg. I think the cherry tomatoes will ripen first though. Either way, I expect the first fruit about the third week in April. Growing tomatoes is my hobby....or maybe it would be better described as an obsession. Lots of families here in rural to semi-rural parts of Love County that have members who are avid gardeners plant 100-200 plants or more every year so they have all they want for canning and fresh eating too. One year one of those families called to see if I wanted their "extra" tomatoes because they were tired of dealing with them. I actually told them no because I had too many of my own. It isn't often I'll turn down tomatoes, but all of us had a great year that year and had too many tomatoes. During a time when I was experimenting with many kinds of tomatoes to see which ones produced best here and had the best flavor, I grew over 400 plants....but a lot of them were outside the actual fenced garden. After the deer found those plants, I had to cut back to 200 or less plants per year. The year our house was being built, I put in a tiny garden with three tomato plants and put a barbed wire fence around it. Amazingly, none of the wild animals bothered it and I got tomatoes from it even though we were up here only on weekends. This is our 13th year here and it is hard to even remember the time when I thought 3 plants was adequate! Dawn

Coffee grounds do have some fairly good levels of nutrients but you need a goodly amount to have much affect on a lawn. http://www.lenawee.mi.us/departments/solid-waste-department/backyard-composting/composting-with-coffee-grounds I have not yet found comparable information on tea leaves. Recycling both in the garden or on the lawn is much preferable than tossing them in the trash. What would the cornmeal be used for? I have seen alfalfa pellets and cubes but not powder, at least not in quantities to be economical to be added to a lawn.

Given the right environment, the worms will go to work to digest the kitchen scraps and bedding faster than any other compost method. The material will pass through the worms' bodies and become "castings." In about 3-4 months, the worms will have digested nearly all the garbage and bedding and the bin will be filled with a rich, black natural fertilizer and soil amendment. Compared to ordinary soil, the worm castings contain five times more nitrogen, seven times more phosphorus and 11 times more potassium. They are rich in humic acids and improve the structure of the soil. The kitchen waste fed to worms can come from a variety of sources, including all vegetable and fruit waste (don't be surprised that some seeds may germinate and potato peels with eyes sprout), pasta leftovers, coffee grounds (with filter) and tea bags. Worms have a gizzard like chickens so fine grit should be added to help the worms digest food. This gritty material includes cornmeal, coffee grounds and/or finely crushed egg shells (dry the shells and then crush). Avoid large amounts of fat, meat scraps or bone. Some sources feel that a small amount of meat and eggs will provide protein to the worms, but be careful you don't overdo it and know that you may attract rodents. Blossom end rot is a serious problem when growing tomatoes, peppers and eggplants and can decimate entire crops. Often caused by a lack of calcium, this condition results in dark, rotted sores on vegetables. A layer of crushed eggshells, placed in the planting hole for these vegetables, is a simple means of combating the disease. As they decompose, the eggshells naturally enrich the soil, providing a slow, steady source of calcium. Calcium, which is found in eggshells, is vital to all forms of plant life and is a "crucial regulator of growth and development," according to the American Society of Plant Biologists. For an extra boost of this nutrient, place a powder made from finely crushed eggshells into a watering can and fill it up with a large bottle of hydrogen peroxide and the rest water. After letting it sit and absorb for several days, use the substance to water plants, such as vegetables and shrubs, and it will act as a natural fertilizer.