1911 Craftsman: pond?
Bellingham
14 years ago
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laag
14 years agotibs
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Pond maintenance tips/advice wanted
Comments (32)Plants You have a lot. I'm not on site so hard to tell, but from the pics I'd probably remove all the plants from the pond and vacuum or scoop the bottom with a swimming pool leaf rake. When removing the plants note how deep they are. Moving them to deeper water might be an issue. For everything other than lilies moving plants to more shallow water, or even above the water is almost always better for the plants, so that would be OK if you like. Then I could assess the plants and pond better. Pots, baskets, directly plants? Can pots be reused? I can now see the pond without plants. How's it look to me? Were some plants hiding something that I want to continue to hide? I come up with a plan. Buy replacement pots? Maybe reduce the number of species returned to the pond. If the plants are planted directly in soil, not pots, you really have to empty the pond and deal with the plants. Fish have to be moved. That's a whole deal I won't get into now. Most (all) the plants will have to be divided. Depends on when last done. I just made a post on this. Most of dealing with plants just has to be learned with experience. But here's some things you may not know... When removed from the pond the plants can stay out of water for a really long time. Weeks, even months. The leaves may die back but the roots (rhizomes) last a long time out of water. Keeping them in water can actually cause rot. You can also plant them in regular garden pots with dirt, same as a regular garden plant, and just keep them well watered and they grow great. This is true for every plant except lilies, floaters and plants that grow completely underwater. Some times if you look up a plant on the web or printed on the label when buying a plant it will say 6" of water, or 12" of water, or whatever. Many people think that means the plant must be in that much water. This is actually the maximum depth the plant can take. Most of these do better the less water. Even planted in the yard many of these plants will do well. Here in Phoenix many kinds of "pond plants" are used in yards. This is because "pond plant" isn't really a very good term... "vernal pool plant" would be better. They've adapted to living in standing water and also dry periods when there's no water which is what a vernal pool is. So knowing this can make your life easier, more options. Plants inside the pond = more work. So reducing them will be less work in the future. You can put some of these into pots around the edge of the pond, or in the ground, or switch to other kinds of plants around the edge. Gives you the same lush look with way less work and the pond appears much larger. Here are some pics of a pond I built in San Jose CA to demonstrate. No plant is inside the pond. And here the pot on the left is a "pond plant" called Horsetail Rush. It's a foam pot with no drainage hole, soil from the yard. This plant, like most "pond plants" can be very invasive, but no problem in a pot. And no drainage holes means no straining from leaking water (the pot on the right need drainage and therefore a catch pan under it). Go on vacation for a week or two the pot is fine with no watering. When it's time to divide it's no big deal....See Morecraftsman/swisher mowers
Comments (27)"RC - most likely his gt5000 has a 48" or larger deck PLUS the addt'l 44 swisher - that's nearly an 8 foot swath he's cutting vs yer $7-10 k ZTR with mebbe a 5-6 foot cut. He can run as fast as you - the little 8-10 hp engine on that swisher won't burn that mush fuel... yeah, he's gonna be back in the garage whilst you are still out there sweating/cutting and yeah, he can drive the rig relaxed with one hand on the straightaways while you are herding yer ZTR with both hands trying keep a straight line cut - all the time on them straightaways... :)' ha ha ha, LOL! Yea right! He can blow that smoke some where else because I know better. By the time RC got turned around the first time I'd be on my second turn around grinning at him like a jackass eating greenbriar. LMAO!...See MoreTell me about your craftsman home & garden.
Comments (7)here i am again, i hope some other people hop in too. i have a 1927 medium brown brick 4 square. when we moved in in 1982, we found 2 sets of the original blueprints in the basement. it was designed by a local indianapolis architectual firm but it could of just as well been a kit house. we have painted the trim a beighy yellow with accents of dark green on the shutters, porch floor, doors and window boxes. the roofing is cottage shingle shape in a light tan. my biggest challenge is adding color to a big brown brick house. i like to use pink as an accent color as in porch pillows and glider cover. as for planting, i like to use pinks, purples and lavenders. years back, i researched 1920's gardens, reading period garden and landscaping books. i have planted arborvite, day lillies, hostas, bishops weed, daisys, purple cone flower, dames rocket, love in a mist, love in a puff, love lies bleeding, cockscomb, purple flox, astible, turtle head, coral bells, lily of the valley, seven sister rose, bleeding heart, iris, fall aster, lemon mint, black eye susan, hollyhocks,mostly cottage flowers. my next choices are shrubs that have winter interest since my yard is a national wildlife habitat yard. cotteneater and holly, old fashioned shrubs like snowball, hydrangia, pussywillow and lilac. i also like a japanese influence. the rear of my yard hosts a pergola and pond with a japanese snow catcher lantern. around this shady area i have planted ivy sweet woodruff, creeping jenny, anemome, hosta, tiger lilly, surprise lilly, lung wort and lambs ear....See MoreFlooring recommendations for 1911 home?
Comments (11)Colickyboy, I studied this in college. The home you describe could be very close to the stickley style within the craftsman umbrella or really the mission era. Homes built around the 1900s had natural woods such as maple and oak on the floors. Stains were medium not dark but that does not mean dark was never done. I am sure there was one person on the planet who painted their floors a dark green or dark brown in 1911. But this was not the norm for this period. Knotty pine or wide plank wood floors also fit that time period. A great on line source for information is.... http://www.oldhousejournal.com/stowicism_the_legacy_of_arts_crafts_builtins/magazine/1572 I would ask do you want to follow the history of your home or do you want to create your own style? Go from there on what color you want for your floors. And the advice to talk to a realtor is good but keep in mind that if you plan to stay for more than 5 years you should make your home what you want. You are going to live there and unless you are doing something nasty (purple and orange polka dots with puce green) make your home a place you love. A house priced right will sell in any market. Priced right. As for Dark floors making a kitchen smaller?? Not at all. I used to believe this but not anymore. Dark floors are beautiful and can actually create a sense of space because it is a flat surface. Dark walls all around you might close in on you but a floor does not do that. Here are some images of traditional craftsman floors... Wait I should say updated for modern times of 2010 Thomas Conway Craftsman And here are two photos of dark floors. This one below is Spanish Mission style in the Arts and Crafts period. The one below that is not craftsman at all but it shows dark floors in a small kitchen. It can look lovely. Spanish style Mission River Rapids Paint by Ralph Lauren I don't think I helped you decide. Sorry. I just wanted you to see there are options that look beautiful either way. Make your kitchen a place you love to be in. ~boxerpups Here is a link that might be useful: Blog of a craftsman home with dark floors...See Morelaag
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