I tried it many years ago, without much success. However, I wouldn't say that therefore it can't be done. The key is probably timing. If I were to try it again, I'd probably plant my sunflowers first and then, when they were about 5-6" tall, I'd plant my beans near their base. The key is that they have a head start on the beans, so as not to be overwhelmed by them, yet not so much of a head start as to completely out compete them in the root zone. I've heard of others doing this. So, my guess is, it can be done. George

My cuke trellis is like fireman's. I just made it the square foot garden way (with metal electrical conduit, cut to be 5x5x5) and hung with nylon mesh. For the most part cukes are willing to go directly vertical and dont need a slant. All I had to do was wander by the garden once or twice a week and if any offshoots from the vine got rogue ideas I would just poke them back into the trellis. By growing directly vertical instead of at a slant, you save yourself tons of garden space and you can give them a little more vertical room. I grew three cukes on my 5x5x5 trellis with no trouble, but one of them was pretty gimpy because it got a late start, so I'd say 2-3 per a trellis of that size is good. If you want the price estimate, the conduit is like $2 for 10' to figure $4 there with some left over. If you use the nice metal corner joints they are $4.50 each ($9 total) plus $1.50 for each of the rebar stakes, so about $16 for a crazy sturdy trellis that is in its 3rd year (and I leave it up year round in the indiana winter cause i"m lazy) and not showing any signs of wear. It seems determined to last forever.

Never had thought of pipe cleaners. Have used old panty hose in the past too and it does work well. But the last several years I've used the green rolls of nylon tape for tomato plants as it's easy to use, stretch, and cut/snap into the right lengths. Another plus, once the growing season is over I'll recycle the tapes by cleaning them up in a bucket of water/bleach to prevent any possible pathogens spreading to next year's plants.

Personally I think you would be much better off both economically and longevity using the solid galvanized high-tensile fencing type cable over a clothes-line grade braided cable. There are defiantly braided cables that will work, but I would surprise if they did not cost quite a bit more. The description you posted "high-tensile (210,000 p.s.i.), steel wire with a class III galvanizing" is referencing this type wire. TSC (Tractor Supply Company) sells a coil of 9 gauge 170 foot for $14, and the same price for 300+ feet of 12.5 gauge. My Lowes carries the 9 gauge for about $18 I think. The tag may just label weight a 10 LB. A 10 lb coil of 9 gauge is 170 feet. The stuff is stiff and hard to work with tying a knot in 9 gauge is not easy. You can use the U shaped cable clamps if you want. The Gripples referenced above in this thread work great on this stuff. A large gripple for 9 gauge or a medium gripple for 12.5 gauge. I would also consider a in line tensioner or wire strainer at one end, which can really help you keep the wire tight, and only 3 or 4 bucks there are 2 sizes listed on below link. I going to post 2 links one to show wire type another to the wire strainer, the wire link is for a larger coil, and is the 12.5 I would go with the 9 Gauge. Just pasting in the text here as only one link allowed below, so just cut and paste these links. Most any farm supply store, or fencing supplier will have these in stock the wire and strainer, but you probably have to get the gripples online if you choose to use them, but with a 25 foot trellis you have no real great need for the gripple. http://www.tractorsupply.com/fencing/electric-fencing/high-tensile-electric-fence-accessories/high-tensile-wire-12-1-2-ga-4-000-ft-coil-3601326 http://www.tractorsupply.com/fencing/electric-fencing/high-tensile-electric-fence-accessories/wire-strainer-3601180 Here is a link that might be useful: TSC high-tensile fencing