Unless your tumbler is larger than any I've ever seen, I don't think so. You can check in the Soil, Compost & Mulch forum, but my understanding is that you need to have a hot compost pile of about 3-feet by 3-feet by 3-feet to kill diseases and weed seeds. That is a cubic yard, or 27 cubic feet, or about 200 gallons. Most of the premade composters people buy are too small to heat up enough. They do work as cold composters, but that can take 6-12 months or more, and it doesn't kill diseases or weeds. I have a Compost Wizard tumbler that I use to make my soil mixes. It works great for that. But I am not strong enough to handle more than about 25 gallons of mix at a time. I do cold composting in one of those black plastic bins. I never add left over solanaceous plants or diseased material to it. I use mostly shredded fall leaves, disease free spent plants and left over 5-1-1 in it. It takes about a year to get decent compost from it. Here is a link that might be useful: Soil, compost & mulch forum

I use a homemade tumbler to blend potting soil. There is a hole in the center of the door where I can insert my garden sprayer to moisten the mix. I do this to keep the dust down. It stores well but I only use water. There is a better description and photos in my journal John Here is a link that might be useful: Johns Journal

I think you guys are both way off the mark, and Glib is setting himself up for a soggy soil that will collapse quickly and some intense N immobilization with the addition of materials that break down rapidly, not to mention the extra heat associated with rapid composting. When you think of container media, think STRUCTURE. Forget about the soil's ability to feed the plants (that's monkey easy) and focus on it's ability to hold the right amount of water and air. Compost can't do that. No matter what you THINK, using a large compost fraction (or any other fine material like peat, coir, sand, topsoil ----- is going to provide you with a soil that retains a soggy layer at the bottom after a thorough watering. This is what you DO NOT want, because water/nutrient uptake is an energy driven process that requires fuel (photosynthate) fuel to be burned in the presence of O2. W/o the O2, there is no way to drive the process and the plant suffers for as long as the O2 level in the soil is insufficient. Ideally, you would BASE your soil on a very larger fraction of coarse material that retains it's structure for long periods (is mineral in composition or breaks down very slowly - like pine bark). This coarse material would comprise more than 75-85% of the volume of the medium. You could then add a small fraction of compost, peat, or a mineral like Turface to adjust the water retention to a favorable level. Adding coarse material to "amend" finer material doesn't work because the fine material simply fills all the air space between the large particles, leaving you with the same drainage, aeration, and soggy soil level you would have had using only the fine material. The idea is to create a soil that holds all or most of it's water inside of soil particles - on the surface of soil particles - and at the interface where soil particles contact each other, and none or little of its water between soil particles. That's not achievable using compost, peat, coir ....... Al

Essentially, you are talking the difference between organic and non-organic elements. Why would you even think of using cut-up skewers (???), grape vines and dried up palm fronds? Why would you not go out and just buy several bags of C/S mix and perlite, sift them both, wash the perlite and -- voila! You have all the proper mix you need. Those of us who use a genuine form of gritty mix are using Turface or maybe a Napa product, some kind of poultry grit (I use Manna Pro), and possibly bark, although many of us forgo the bark. Using gritty mix is a lot of work to procure, sift, wash etc. Sometimes it's worth it. Sometimes we revert back to soil and perlite. But either way, it's hard to fail with a relatively decent C/S soil plus perlite, roughly 50/50. If you are concerned about drainage -- that's the job of the 50% perlite. It works.