Help with vegetable garden design
pbl_ge
12 years ago
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deviant-deziner
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agorosiew
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Design for a fenced in vegetable garden
Comments (2)I've kept the Feb. 1996 copy of Horticulture magazine because I liked the article on design solutions for keeping deer at bay. I too have been wanting a deer proof area for vegetable gardening and plan to adapt the author's ideas. The deer fence had two sections. Lower portion 3'high was built with crossed beams backed with 1/2" hardware cloth. The upper portion had 5 horizontal wires 8" apart with the bottom 3 electrified. The fence was anchored with 6" cedar posts spaced 10-12' apart. I liked the openness of the design. Perhaps you could find a copy of the magazine on e-bay....See MoreCritter-resistant vegetable garden design question
Comments (6)Here's the vole technique, but it's very difficult to do during the growing season when there's a lot of foliage. First you have to find exit holes. To determine if the hole is active, place a piece of apple in front of it. To keep rabbits etc. from eating the apple, place two short pieces of two x four on either side of it and the hole. Put a five gallon bucket on the two x fours and weight it down with a rock. If the apple is gnawed or gone the next day, it's an active hole. Now, place some mouse/rat poison in a yogurt or cottage cheese container, lay it on its side and place it where you had the apple. with the opening facing the hole. Replace the bucket set up. (This keeps other animals safe from the poison.) Check it daily and replace poison as needed until it's no longer taken. Look for other holes and do the same. This holds the population down, but doesn't really protect my sweet potatoes in summer, because the holes are impossible to find under all the vegetation in my ornamental gardens. But it does work, and is the only thing I know of that does....See MoreVegetable Garden Design Help
Comments (7)I would skip the corn and the pumpkins in a limited space. Your space isn't small, but it also isn't particularly big enough for the monster growers. Strawberries are there year after year, so you can free up some space in your vegetable garden by putting them in a permanent bed. Mine are along the side of the house as under-planting for shrubs. (Which happen to be blueberries.) It your summers are warm, it may be too hot for lettuce. You are going to need paths between your rows or beds as well, which will take up a bit more space. 12" wide should be enough. Depending on your size, most folks are able to reach into 4' beds. Some people can do 5'. I would not really worry about companion planting this year -- just start greening up your thumb. To do your layout, I would cut up some post-it notes and play with it like a puzzle. So many 2'x2' squares for individual (determinate!) tomato plants, etc. If you want a LOT of plants, be sure to pick compact varieties. But mostly for your first year, I would grow whatever the common varieties are in your area. An older local gardener will know, or the local farmer's co-op if you have one. That way you are starting with varieties proven to perform in your area instead of not knowing if a plant is dying to lack of care, too much care, or just inappropriateness. I would also send off for a soil test. Your county agricultural extension agent/office can tell you how. Sometimes they are free; sometimes they cost a little bit. It's just $7 here, and worth it in helping remove guesswork on improving your soil...See MoreIneed your help with vegetable garden design
Comments (7)I have decided what to do I am going back to garden beds not one huge garden with no paths. I only did that to accommodate my next year's attempt of a 3 sisters garden, but I am not going to try that next year after all. this year was a flop. and...Texas is a bit hot for corn and I read about all the problems with a 3 sisters garden. First the beans produce less. You need a really big place since if things are too close together, the beans will not get enough light. Sweet corn is not strong enough to support pole beans. I think from what I read, dent corn was used by the Indians. I could try that, but not sure family would like it since it is not as sweet as modern sweet corn. It gets very tall too, which would shade the beans even more. I have lots of food allergies and about all I can eat is legumes in the green stage (not dried), beets, winter squash and broccoli . So I believe I should focus my efforts there. I am not trying broccoli in Texas though. Fresh broccoli is easy to purchase organic. Limas, and cow peas can't be purchased green in any store around here. Green beans and peas can be purchased frozen at the health food store, but never fresh. Beets and winter squash are hit and miss. So there is a big benefit for me growing these. I am planting celeriac and rutabaga too. I purchased those at a whole foods once and they did not make me sick. Those two are not available at my local health food store. I do not think I will have any luck with celeriac, but I will give it a go. I am also planting herbs and greens for my family this fall. Not such a big deal if they don't work out though, since they do not eat organic. Anyway, I will build beds (again) about 12 X 3. 2 beds by the house and 2 further out. I am making them longer this time since everything does better closer to the house where it is cooler and gets more afternoon shade. If I made them shorter with paths between it would waste the valuable, close to the house space. The reason I am breaking up the beds with 1 path between, is 1 long bed is annoying to have to carry the hose around and I need to leave a space for the down spout. That area now is nothing but mud with all the rain we have been getting. I am not going out as far, as I have the huge garden now. Everything dies past 8 feet out, too hot! I guess I would have never known all that stuff unless I tried it first. If I don't have enough room for the beans, I will try something I saw in web land. They attached strings to the house gutter and attached to the ground. The beans climbed those. I also saw some neat beans climbing up privacy fences with strings. Sounds like a plan. As far as the drought problem. I will dig 1 foot round holes every 2 feet in the center of the beds. I will fill with rocks and put mulch over that. I will only water the holes when the soil shows to be dry. I surely hope that works. I did not think the ditch idea would work as well because: 1. the sides would eventually fall down 2. if I filled the ditch with water, even plants that did not need water would get it 3. seemed to me, the ditches wasted too much space 4. no place to walk 5. boring rows resulted 6. the mud problem near the down spout 7.water would evaporate from ditches unless I covered with mulch or something and would have to be re-dug when everything decomposed. If I filled with rocks, that would be a lot of rocks. 8. ditches wasted valuable close to the house space 9. too much water in the spring and fall, creating mud Just did not seem to be feasible to me. I filled in the ditches. I can't make beds until the current plants are done producing. I guess I will put things pretty much back the way they were in stages. Your post on ollas gave me courage to try out my rock/hole idea. Thanks for posting it. It is way cool! I hate to fail. I need a success every once in a while to keep up this gardening thing. I got so little produce so far. Here are the only things I have gotten so far: last fall -2005 about 5 winter squash - very sweet and yummy no sugar pumpkins 1 jackolantern in December - too late to use this spring - 2006 about 3-4 weeks of English peas every other day. Not sweet 5 small beets - not sweet 2 tiny rutabagas - not great taste no parsley - no sprout no scallions - no sprout no onions - no sprout no radish - died in heat as seedlings no spinach - no sprout lots of over ripe cover crop radishes not doing these thing in spring ever again. This summer - 2006 5 ears of poorly formed corn with ear worms about 6 tomatoes (from 2 plants) no green beans - plants died in heat, except one plant, it is blooming now (Sept 2006) no limas - very few sprouted, rest died in heat 1 unripe charentais melon - picked cause it split, rest of plants died tasted OK, but rather crunchy , pour sprouting no cucumbers - very few sprouted, rest died a couple of handfuls of cow peas, that I found out I was picking unripe. The last handful I picked, tasted great since I waited till the pods were yellow. I boiled in homemade beef broth with a bit of rendered beef fat. I would love to get at least 1 cup to make a decent meal for one. I will say things are going a bit better this fall. Hear is what has sprouted so far wax beans limas peas 7 beets squash - some have borers others may but not looking sick yet cowpeas - making pods! 2 rutabagas 2 radishes 0 cabbage - need to give a few more days I am disappointed with the beets, rutabaga and radish. I planted more beets and rutabaga. Sorry the post is so long. I am home bound so gardening fills my days, ether doing it or thinking about it. I wish it was working out better. Texas is very inhospitable. I will give the things that I have had little to no success with, a few more tries then giving up on them. My grandma had a nice large garden in Vermont. She did not have everything keel over like this. Just had frost to worry about. Not willing to move to the arctic for a bit of gardening success though. Thanks for listening. Mary...See Moremad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agopbl_ge
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agodeviant-deziner
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agooliveoyl3
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agomissingtheobvious
12 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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