I thought I should share some apparently good resources I've found since posting my earlier question, several thanks to off-list recommendations from members of this forum and things I found through other threads here. I don't have the experience to judge the relative merits of the advice, but these things all seemed good. It's still not quite as long/thorough as I'd like, but the best general grafting and budding information I've found so far is "Propagation of Plants by Grafting and Budding" a "Pacific Northwest Extension Publication" PNW496 A similar publication that I thought was next best is "Grafting and Propagating Fruit Trees" from Penn State, code #UJ255 NC State also has a fairly short publication "Grafting and Budding Nursery Crop Plants" code #AG-396 There's an outstanding photo series with explanations of bark grafting on the Citrus Growers Forum in the tutorial section titled "Limb Bark Grafting Pictorial Demo" I also really liked an article about "Easy Field Grafting Technique for Persimmon Trees" by David Osborn. It's basically another bark grafting tutorial. The only good book I've found so far is very outdated but really good anyways. The book pre-dates a lot of things we might just buy nowadays, and I appreciate that more self-sufficient approach. It's "The Art of Grafting and Budding" by Charles Baltet, available as a free e-book online. And on a random topic but with lots of information that would also apply to other tree species, I found the blog "Northern Pecans" by the research and extension specialist for Kansas and Missouri, William Reid, really outstanding and full of all sorts of great stuff. If anyone else has further recommendations, I'm always interested in finding outstanding learning resources.

You should host a public orchid sale by inviting all of the orchid societies in San Diego County. I'll help you - Palomar Orchid Society newsletter@palomarorchid.org San Diego County Cymbidium Club Contact: Bill Wong, 760-931-0502 / billcwong@att.net or Marjorie Kuhlmann, 858-675-0885 / m_kuhlmann@sbcglobal.net San Diego County Orchid Society use website in previous reply for information If you choose to go this route, expect at least a hundred people. Just pick a Saturday 9am to 3pm, have the plants priced somehow. Plants with a valid name tag could go for $10-20 minimum and those without $3-5 and it all depends on how healthy they are. Blooming plants you can probably double those amounts. If you want help with the pricing or other information I'm sure someone from one of the societies would volunteer to help if you give them a few free plants. Let us know what happens!!!

I apologize for the delay responding to your suggestions. Our son is in the Army and will be deployed to Iraq within in a few weeks. Last weekend, we had a big party for him, his wife, and their friends - that took all my time, energy and emotions. Spruce: I want to thank you for recommending "Knowing Your Trees." The book is helping me to learn, and it is unlike other books I've seen. I know it was written for a different audience in a different era. It goes without saying that knowledge has changed since it was published in 1947. I think the photos make it a classic. I'm sorry you caught flack about it. You have offered me so much encouragement (loblollies, groves) since I discovered this forum. I want thank you for that too. Sam, pinetree: I don't use "coffee table books." I have other books - Field Guide: Eastern Trees (Peterson), Field Guide to Trees: Eastern Region (National Audubon Society), Common Plants of the Mid-Atlantic Coast: A Field Guide (Silberhorn), and a Field Guide to the Chesapeake Bay that has a section on trees. IMO, each has strengths and weaknesses. If either of you or anyone else can recommend better references, I would be very grateful. I don't rely exclusively on websites I do find good information on the Internet. I read books. I plant. I observe. I pay attention. I live in a rural area. I have no teacher, no mentor, no formal training, so I ask questions. I have many more questions but don't because I know would wear out my welcome very quickly. I use the search engine to find answers - that is a boon. I don't know what good online courses are available through universities YET but I'll bet they are out there. I'll keep searching. I think a few good courses would help me learn the basics faster. No, this is not the same as taking courses taught by knowledgeable, inspiring teachers. Since this option is not available to me, I'll continue to do what I'm doing now - reading, doing, observing, and asking occasional questions here. Sam, you wrote, "If Pam wants to learn about Bald Cypress take a trip to Battle Creek Cypress Swamp nr Prince Frederick MD. You can learn more this way than from a computer screen." I guess you remembered my bald cypress crisis. I'm happy to report that all the bald cypresses are recovering. All have new growth. The largest tree has leafed out to the leader. When I saw this, I was ecstatic. I continue to water and added more mulch (no more than 4 inches, and a few inches from the trunk). The winds are still strong in afternoons and evenings, but no longer 20-25 mph, day after day for 2 weeks - accompanied by temps in the high 90s. Because conditions improved, and I continued to give the trees what they needed, they are recovering. I am thankful for the advice I received on this forum. Although some people were criticial, others were encouraging and I didn't give up. As to your comment about learning from trips, I agree. I wish I could take more trips but my work schedule is erratic with long hours so I cannot do this as often as I would like. When we are on the road, I try to stop at places that have been recommended. Thanks to all for your patience with my interminable questions. Pam

Contrary to what most "lawn experts" tell you dethatching is not necessary unless the thatch is more then 1/2 inch thick, and if the thatch is that thick there is a soil problem that needs to be addressed because the Soil Food Web is unable to function well. Whether grubs are a problem depends on the population, 5 or fewer per square foot are not a problem while 10 or more per square foot will be. In a good, healthy soil grubs will be kept under control by predators that will not be present in a sick soil. Recycling your grass clippings can help because they can supply 1/2 the needed 2 pounds of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet lawns need each year. Your soil does need organic matter which will help retain necessary mositure, as well as provide a food source for the Soil Food Web that will feed the grass you want to grow. Start by contacting the local office of your Washington State University Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done so you know what your soils pH and base nutrient levels are. These simple soil tests may also be of some help in getting your soil into that good, helathy condition needed to grow a strong and healthy garden. Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Here is a link that might be useful: WSU CES