Is this area a candidate for one of the no-mow grasses? I've seen plantings of Buffalo Grass and other low-growing grasses, and in the right setting, they can be very beautiful.

Do a web search on no-mow grasses and a bit of research to find one that will thrive in your conditions.

Might be. I do agree with you that it is quite beautiful. I used to be a semi-expert on grasses, will have to review Buffalo Grass. I do believe however that it would not perform well in a shady orchard, esp. in our rainy climate - isn't it from the American prairies?

Thinking though of eliminating all vegetation under the trees, and doing ????? (Gravel, etc.).

Thanks Laag. I'm open to persuasion for reasons to keep the grass - and you make some very good points.

At present, the grass goes all the way up to the trees. More specifically, there's at the base of each trunk about a 2' diameter circle of dead grass I glyophatized (is that a word? :-) ) Maybe some sort of extension and formalization of that general idea....

In fact, considering what you've said, maybe a happy medium would be a.. bordered planter? (help me out with the term! :-) ) around each tree, or larger shady planters and a winding grass path through the trees.

You've got my imagination working now. Thanks!!

What types of trees are growing in the orchard? Regular height or dwarfs? Can they be limbed up for easier mowing?

Create mulch rings around the base of the trees so you don't have to get so close to the trunks and limb the trees up if possible. I have a semi-dwarf apple tree that I've had to do this to to be able to get around it efficiently on the riding lawn mower. Now, if I could just find a way to keep the deer from eating all the apples, I would be in business.

Sheep. That is what my grandma had in her orchard in the early 1900's to keep the grass low. Didn't want to turn your back on the ram.

DS had a similar situation with apple and cherry trees that are on about 1/4 acre. We sprayed Roundup on the grass, following the dripline of each tree to determine the circle size. Eventually he plans to put mulch over the dead grass.

It's much easier to mow now and definitely looks neater!

I too vote for some sort of no-mow grass substitute. Something like eco-lawn, or the equivalent of a low turfgrass/wildflower blend that only needs a seasonal mowing. Mulch could work but its weed supressing capabilities will diminish over time and it will need to be replaced - a pricey annual undertaking if you are covering 2500sf.

Don't know how your orchard is set out, but in commercial fruit orchards, the trees are planted in straight lines with sufficient room in between rows to mow the grass/weeds/whatever planted there and it is only the trees and their immediate surrounds that require mulching to keep the weeds in control. FWIW, I would not recommend frequent applications of RoundUp or other glysophate product withing the driplines. Repeated use can have a negative impact on the health of the trees - I've seen mature trees killed or severely damaged by too frequent chemical weed control.

Here is a link that might be useful: Eco Lawn

I am new to this forum... but here's my 2 cents. Would help to see a pic. I'd excavate all the lawn out in a circle around the tree (would 3-4 feet radius help your mowing situation?). I'd put in lawn edging around the outside, and then top-up with a yard or two of soil. Then I'd put down some weed barrier fabric and top with some decorative stone like rounded river rock or shale. You could even make a few holes in the fabric and plant a few nice smaller perennials before topping with the rock... like a sedum, russian sage, or if shady maybe even some hostas. Won't have to worry about mowing that lawn anymore... and the effect would look nice under the trees. Good luck.

Google forest gardening. The principle of that is to create a natural understory for your trees that will not only enhance the health and production of the trees, but also be low maintenance. The idea is to design your orchard so that eventually in functions like a natural forest. You don't have to maintain a forest do you? Two EXCELLENT books on the subject are "Forest Gardening" and "Gia's Garden." One of the two has complete instructions for an orchard. Go to Amazon.com and search under "forest gardening." Also online you can find some of the same information.

Gravel mulch is a pain even in a small garden bed, I can only imagine what it would be like in an orchard. I can see putting gravel paths between the rows, but not under the trees.

If the issue is just to have a protective area around each tree, then simple mulch seems fine. The problem I see in anything much more than that is that you would be trying to "domesticate" a huge area, so that, after you remove grass, which is in essence a form of groundcover (agree with trying to get the "best grass concept" possible, thought) the area would eventually be taken over by weeds, poison ivy, brambles and everything else worse than grass and would be a huge maintenance nightmare.

I like the no mow grass selection and suggest sprinkling in wild flower mixes. However, a thought ocurred? Do you have poisonous snakes or other creatures that enjoy such habitat...hmmm if so I'd go with no grass.

Some great ideas in here! Thanks so much everyone!

Ianna, no poisonous snakes here.

It's sounding like the best solution is a combination of higher pruning and beds around each tree, or around groups of trees. That leaves the grass in-place, yet solves much of the mowing gymnastics problem.

Here are pics of the area to be done:

I agree chemical control can be overdone and misused, but when used correctly it's of great benefit.
We've experienced no loss or damage of plants while using it in our Filbert orchard, Douglas Fir plantings and Blueberry orchards. Without it we'd be unable to harvest and forever fighting weeds.

Whichever route you take, be sure to post 'after' photos!

The Buffalo Grass mentioned way back by saypoint, tho beautiful, needs sun. Check to see if Carex pensylvanica is native to your area.

ps the site below rates its weed suppression quality as low, but I have found it to work very well once it spreads.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pic of PA sedge and info