Mainly, chill out and enjoy observing whatever happens. Forget about trying to control whatever happens - it ain't possible.

Your soil mix sounds pretty good, and the fact that you did your prep in the fall was very good, most newbies wait til spring. With that one third clay in there you won't have to worry much about watering, unless it were over-watering. Depending on where you are rainfall may suffice - stick your finger in the bed and if it's moist three inches down then don't water. Insect pests are usually not severe on first gardens, so I wouldn't make any pre-emptive strikes. Wait and see. Mulch is good, but don't put it closer than a few inches from the stems of plants, and wait until plants are a foot tall or so. Make sure the soil is good and damp before putting mulch on, after a good rain is the best time.

Actually I agree with the previous poster....time to relax and enjoy what you have done....keep an eye on what is happening and address any problem that might come up....I think too much water is not good...I live in TX so I want my veggies to grow and flourish, with as little water as possible...when I hear their little voices screaming "Mama" in unison....then I know it's time to turn on the soaker...We have had so much rain this spring, it hasn't been an issue...

As mentioned above - dig down 6 inches to see if there is moisture. You will have to adjust throughout the season and be attentive to the amount of rainfall you receive each week. There are two schools of thought on watering. Frequent shallow waterings or less frequent long, deep waterings. The general rule of thumb is that mature plants need 1-2 inches of rain per week in summer. You should provide whatever portion of this moisture is lacking. One inch of rain equals 65 gallons per 100 square feet of garden space. But this is just a guide. Time of the season, stage of the plants, soil composition, and many other factors affect the amount of water required. Be consistent during fruit production.

Mulched plants require less water than plants that are not mulched. Raised beds require more than non-raised beds.

If a good amount of compost is incorporated into the soil, less water is needed. Compost holds 6 times it's weight in water.

Watering too frequently and too heavily is just as hard on plants as too little water. Roots require oxygen just as much as they require water and nutrients.

Dry winds dehydrate plants.

Cooler temps require less water.

Those using drip irrigation whether from a soaker hose or milk jug are likely getting the best use of their water which is going right where it needs to go and the ground has time to absorb it.

There are hundreds of methods of watering. Whatever you do, just be consistent. But I do agree, twice a day sounds like too much. Roots require oxygen equally as much as they require nutrients and water.

I personally believe in a couple of deep waterings per week with the use of 2 inches of mulch to reduce evaporation and maintain a more stable soil temperature.

Plants recover from dehydration much better then they ever recover from the roots being suffocated by drowning so underwatering is better than overwatering until you get the hang of it. Oxygen is equally as important as water and nutrients and rain water is always better than municipal tap water.

Thanks y'all - So I don't have to tear my hair out :)

Can I water all the plants the same - ie tomatoes don't need more water than squash or basil? If that's true, then I will just run a soaker hose around the plants, cover with some compost I have from last fall plus old leaves and some grass clippings (keeping away from plant stem) Right?

What about fertilizer? I'm not sure of nutrient level of soil and some people say to fertilize every week or so, especially on the tomato forum. Any particular type - ie liquid or dry? Or, do I just wait for some signs of "hunger"? Thanks for your patience

From your original description, it seems the bed is very rich in nutrients. If you have all-day full sunshine, then those plants are going to go nuts. The squash and tomatoes will quickly shade out everything else. Remember to eat the lettuce before it gets bitter, which will happen very soon in the warm weather.

What kind of mulch and how close to plant stem can I put it?

Most people decide by how much they are willing to spend and what they have access to. Some municipalities have yard waste recycling centers and provide free compost and mulch, others charge a few dollars a truckload. Some people like me like to use grass clippings and leaves because I can get them for free. Others use shredded newspaper, cardboard, buckwheat hulls, woodchips, etc.

Do these all have about same water needs? Can I water all the plants the same - ie tomatoes don't need more water than squash or basil? If that's true, then I will just run a soaker hose around the plants, cover with some compost I have from last fall plus old leaves and some grass clippings (keeping away from plant stem) Right?

Did you read my post on watering above? So long as you have good drainage, the plants will take what water they need. Follow the advice above about one inch of water per week by supplementing rainfall.

What about fertilizer? I made the raised garden bed 9 months ago because of our heavy clay soil. So I don't know how nutrient rich it is - it's about 1/4 - 1/3rd clay, 1/3 or more good compost, 1/3 misc - some rotting leaves, soil ammendments like bone meal, epsoma, top soil etc. How much and how often?

Don't get overwhelmed, just try to get educated on the topic from all sides before making a final decision. Chemical fertilizers can render your soil sterile over time and upset the balance of the ecosystem of your soil tremendously - enough to a point where repeated use will actually force you into needing chemical fertilizer because your soil won't be able to support itself naturally. Hence, a good reason to care so that while you still have a choice, why not use natural means?

Take the time to learn that there is not a "cure all" for every pest at every stage of it's life cycle. Some won't work if it's going to rain. Some don't work well if it's too hot, etc.

Pest management is complex, if you wish to use chemical products, do so responsibly which goes further than reading the label. If you want to learn, a good place to start is here:

Integrated Pest Management
This lecture is presented in two parts. Each part is 90-minutes in length. Recorded in Sacramento County in California's Sacramento Valley, this lecture is byMary Louise Flint, Ph.D., Director, IPM Education and Publications, UC Statewide IPM Project and Extension Entomologist & Cooperative Extension Specialist.

Education:
B.S. Plant Science, University of California, Davis
Ph.D. Entomology, University of California, Berkeley

Appointment:
100% Cooperative Extension

Research Interests:
Integrated pest management of landscape, agricultural and garden pests; biological control of arthropod pests; alternatives to pesticides; adoption of alternative practices by practitioners; innovative delivery of pest management information.

Topics discussed in the Integrated Pest Management Lecture:

* IPM references and resources
* Preventing pest problems
* Natural common enemies
* Making less toxic pesticide choices
* Controlling aphids, scales, caterpillars, coddling moths, tree borers, snails and slugs, and lawn insects.

You can watch the programs now online:

Just make sure you have Real Player installed or download it free.

Integrated Pest Management Part1 90 minutes

Integrated Pest Management Part 2 90 minutes

You'll want to bookmark the following link to Professor Flint's Lab Research on:
Controlling Pests in Gardens and Landscapes: Vegetables and Melons

I promise you'll learn one or two things to put in your gardening bag of pest management arsenals.

;)

Violet - thanks so much for detailed answers. Re watering, yes I read your previous post, but I had read lables and info that said "lettuce needs more/lots of water" tomatoes need lots of water" It is amazing to me that veggies will seek out the water they need, because in the regular garden of shrubs, flowers, trees, it seems that certain plants like young maple transplants and berry bushes need more water than other plants.

I will look at the pest links, and I like having a good reference to go back to. Thanks.

It'a also amazing that in nature, on mountains, in on forests, national parks, that each plant starts from seed all on it's own without store bought sterile growing medium, without hand watering, without chemical fertilizer, and without humans hovering over them...

Have faith in nature.

*wink*