How do you fertilize mulched plants?
Annie
9 years ago
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theforgottenone1013 (SE MI zone 5b/6a)
9 years agoAnnie thanked theforgottenone1013 (SE MI zone 5b/6a)Related Discussions
How to spread granular fertilizer after mulching
Comments (2)You will be better off if you can scrape the mulch away from the plant (with a hand cultivator), put down the fertilizer, scratch it in (again, with the hand cultivator), and pull the mulch back over the dirt. If you have a ton of bushes to do this to, I would guess that you could put the fertilizer right over the mulch, stir the mulch around a little, so the fertilizer gets off the top, and water it in. Or, as you say, use liquid fertilizer. Joan...See MoreDo you use fertilizer and if so, how do you apply it?
Comments (1)An average loam soil will have 4000 pounds of nitrogen, 4000 pounds of phosphorous, and 20,000 pounds of potassium per acre in the top eight inches most of it in forms that are unavailable to plants. Many minerals present in the soil are most available to plants if the soil pH is neutral to very slightly acid. Soil in my region is neutral. We do not run fertilizer through the irrigation system. If your irrigation water is alkaline, you will have to adjust it to increase soil fertility. Your county ag agent is your best source for information. We use organic mulches and green manure crops for soil fertility. We do use bone meal at planting time on our large dahlia crop. But, hey, I think we need to use alfalfa like LizaLily because we want 100 blooms per day on our Chilsean's Pride dahlia. In correcting deficiencies of minor elements, it is important to realize that the difference between a therapeutic dose and a toxic dose is pretty small for some of the nutrients. Essentially, what we use here in the Great Lakes Region is probably going to have no bearing on what someone uses in your area. Talk to growers in your area and your ag agent. We have received valuable information from both....See MoreHow Often Do You Fertilize Your Plants?
Comments (10)Rob and Stevie: Gardentone is great, but it's organic(which is great). BUT... going organic in containers is very difficult unless it's in a very large container. It's just very difficult to maintain proper conditions(temps, moisture levels, maintaining a high level of microbial activity) in smallish containers for organics to be effective. I'm not saying it CAN'T be done...it's just difficult to maintain those perfect conditions. Not to mention that most organic meals, especially bone, are slow release and won't be available for months. For me, I do organics in my whiskey barrels and in-ground. Anything smaller and it's MG shake n' feed or osmocote(slow release) and an all-purpose water soluble, 3-1-2 ratio half-doses weekly. I use MG AP but i have to add some of smokemaster's witch's brew and epsom salts for the Ca and Mg, respectively. Foliage Pro is a good water soluble that contains Ca and Mg. YMMV Kevin...See Morehow many years can sensitive plants live? and how do they fertilize?
Comments (9)Linaria's response: well taken. Gardengal, maybe you're right! Otherwise: Sensitive? Appropriate growing conditions are obviously key for herbaceous plant survival, but there's also genetics. As a generalization for herbaceous perennials, those with deep tap roots tend to live longer and those with shallow roots not live so many years. Prolific seeding goes along with the latter; that is a plant's survival strategy can be prolific seeding as the plant "wears itself out" with a large energy investment in reproduction. Of course, plants in gardens aren't plants within the context of natural ecosystems. Personally, I feel that you get what you pay for. More expensive plants are typically those that are harder for the breeders and growers to produce. ALWAYS with the caveat of appropriate growing conditions (which includes maintenance over years), I find more expensive plants generally tend to live longer, hellebores and peonies being obvious examples. More expensive plants have also typically been (artificially) selected for good garden behaviour, for instance a clump forming habit rather than rabid seeding and running....See More- Annie thanked daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
Annie
9 years ago- Annie thanked daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
- Annie thanked daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
Annie
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
9 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
9 years agoAnnie
9 years agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
9 years agoballoonflower
9 years agoglib
9 years agoballoonflower
9 years agoAnnie
9 years agomargaran
5 years ago
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