Cold is relative, Ladyrose :) Even today when it's rainy and gray it's warmer than it was last week. And back to the 70s by early next week. The tomatoes are starting to pop up -- a couple of Amish Paste, and when I opened one of the containers that had four varieties it turns out I didn't imagine the Florida Pink, it was just way back in the corner near the handle so it was hard to see with just a quick look. Still waiting on a bunch of varieties, but I'm more optimistic than I was last week.

I'm learning too, so take my (extremely spammy) advice with a grain of salt. I start seeds early so I can transplant them into my garden, so hopefully my advice will help. When using seeds from last year, depending on the type of plant, the amount of seed that may still be viable will vary from type to type. Some seeds last seemingly forever, while others need to be planted the same year they were collected. Do some research online to find out. Be careful with potting soil. Many brands can be too thick in texture and full of things like fertilizer, which can affect your seedlings' ability to grow. It's better to get seed starter soil, or soil that's lighter in texture. As for florescent lighting versus LED: not all light from bulbs will work for growing. It all depends on your setup, what you're growing, what sort of budget you have, and if you're growing indoors or just starting plants to place outdoors when spring arrives. The last one is important because the larger and more mature the plant, the more light you'll need. If you're just starting seeds indoors, most types of florescent lights should do the trick, though more experienced people here may have better ideas. Florescent lights are generally inexpensive and widely available, which is probably why that site recommended them. Since this'll be in a greenhouse, you'll have to consider things like moisture (ie, will the light fixture be okay being in a greenhouse year after year?), how you'll hang your lights, and how you'll space them around your seedlings. I grow in the basement, so I use a wire shelving unit and raise the seed beds to the light. If you can't hang your lights from the ceiling, you can possibly affix your lights to a frame (you can make your own with wood, pipes, repurposed shelves, buy kits, etc) and put them on small chains with s-hooks, so you can bring them up as the plants get higher. I plug my lights into a timer so that they're not on 24/7, which saves electricity.

A couple of possible issues jump out at me. Not necessarily in order - "really thin and die within a couple of days" might be from (1) insufficient light (1-1/5" above max.), (2) not under the lights quickly enough (start them under the lights), (3) too much heat from either heat pad so too hot soil or high air temps can both cause this (I'm assuming they are off the heat as soon as they break the soil surface), (4) over-crowding the plants as in starting multiples in the same small container and then not transplanting them quickly enough to separate containers, and of course (5) over-watering which kills more seedlings than all other causes combined as roots rot and damp-off fungus develops. Then there is "the dirt seemed dense and the water kinda laid on time for a bit". Most seed starting mixes are primarily peat based and the so-called "organic" ones especially so. It must be well wetted (soaked and then wrung out) to begin with as peat will repel water if dry. Personally I don't care for the "organic" mixes for 2 reasons: (1) they aren't any more "organic" than any of the others but just cost more and mis-lead users, and (2) they aren't sterile so contain many more potential contaminants and bacteria that can cause problems. I'd suggest turning down the heat on the heating pad and remove from it ASAP, cooling down the room, uncover ASAP as sprout or better yet don't use a cover, get your lights closer, wet the mix better to begin with and then cut back on water and try bottom watering instead, and use a different mix. Just some things to consider. Dave

@William Benson The only way I know of to tag a responder with a reply is for the OP (you) to use the ”Thank” button available to only the OP. That generates an email notice to poster if they’ve set it up in their profile. Otherwise, just using ‘@‘ + choosing poster name from drop down as I did in this post with your name, alerts poster that reply is directed to them. Either way, any activity on posts one responds to is listed in the notification bell icon at top of Houzz discussion page. Whew! Long answer! I missed that you said planting border outside fence is 10’ wide. Sounds like the GG’s are best suited for your need. I looked them up for mature size & though Giants they are, they are shorter & narrower than the white pines you took out. But, the GG width - at base - is 12’ - 20’ so I’d increase the space between them beyond the 6’ I’m guessing your fence panels are & for sure plant them in middle of 10’ width. Seems like a solid view block really isn’t needed for the neighbors upstairs windows views - those are probably bedroom windows too. Theyhave their own trees at lower window height.