"Best" is relative. Best for you may not be the same as what's best for the plants. I overwinter my favorites in my living quarters. Some of them bloom, I can pet and sniff the scented ones, and all of them have luscious green leaves for me to admire. This helps me stay happy through winter.

Doris,Gramma and a few other older gardeners I know /of,use the bag method and it works wonderfully. I am not big on geranium growing, so I have never tried it myself,but will if ever I should catch the geranium bug! ;) Daisy,I say try it,you never know,it may work,considering you had others survive. Maybe even test it out on 1/2 of them,so you would only have to find space for the other 1/2 in your house. If it works out,than you know you wont have to take up that space again,if it doesn't,you may have to try storing them indoors,either as Doris does or another method, in the future.I wonder if you use the milk jug and mulch over the whole thing with leaves , grass clippings or whatever,if that would help your chances for survival? I am curious of the outcome,please keep us posted! :)

It is also a slow forum at times. I don't overwinter geraniums to be able to help you but there are lots of people that do so. I imagine your geraniums died last year because they dried out. Even when dormant plants still need water. Unless they were tuberous then other methods should have been taken. If you google "overwinter geranium" lots comes up. Good luck SCG

If there is ANY life in thar, I'd gamble on the one that has been left to dry out....hopefully, completely. That's how they are to be kept over winter....dry, dark, and as cool as possible....and I'll add lonesome. Pelargonium, along with a few others, are able to be let alone, kept moisture from, no light, no heat. When you return those needs to the plant when conditions favor, the plant recovers fully to bloom again. You should then give the plant fresh potting soil, a clean pot, water to drainage and the best sunlight you can find. The potted plant should have something between the roots and the bottom of the pot...something to keep the roots away from the bottom so t can drain without being soaked. Shards of clay, a chewed up pop can, or stones can suffice. It will, if there's life in it, show some start of budding within a week....two weeks and will carry on from that. Chances are there's not enough in the plant to bloom this year...bloom takes an awful lot of energy out of the plant so maybe this is good. Count on this recovery for next year. In that regard then, if it comes back treat it like a houseplant until fall when you do not allow it to be touched by frost. Instead, it goes into the basement, into the darkest area, where it is put and not ever touched by water or light or heat. Got an old fridge? That's an ideal place to winter over plants as long as you don't keep fruit in it. Then in February, bring it out, cut it back---if it has done anything, give it that fresh potting soil, water to drainage, the best window for sunlight and watch it take off. Do not let it dry out. Stick a finger down to the first knuckle...if it feels damp, let it go another couple days. Turn it every other day to ensure all parts get equal sunlight. Water to drainage only to keep it damp...never wet. As the plant grows water accordingly. The one that has been kept wet..and shows nothing is probably dead as a doornail but, given that plants come back when they show no sign of recovery, try giving it the same treatment as above. Sometimes, plants that have been kept in a wet or damp condition constantly show signs of mold or mildew. If this is the case, then spray a little "no damp"...a fungicide on it when you first water it. Thereafter, just keep it damp and always, when you water, water to drainage. Never let it dry out. Oh, one other thing. Never feed a sick plant. Food is only given a plant when it can use it, when its growing.