We use cattle panel rolled in a circle lined w/burlap. It's 4'tall. Works great. plant at bottom and keep covering w/soil as the potato grows to the light. Ours are over the top and will be ready to harvest in about 7 weeks. We put them in Jan.15. hilary

Yes, sweets are always grown from slips, not from seed potatoes and yes, you can grow slips on any sweet potato. In fact they will grow them all on their own without any intervention from you or can be grown in either soil or water. Easy to do. Just snap them off and plant them. The video you linked shows them planted in a very small flower pot however so production would be minimal. Dave

You probably already know by now - I'd keep them away from the tomatoes and peppers just so diseases have to really work to get to similar species. You could use them as part of your shade system for growing saladings over the heat of summer, though.

Someone on this forum has grown them in cardboard boxes and said she got great yields, but I don't remember who it was. I have grown them in containers, including molasses feed tubs (which are roughly the same size as whiskey half-barrel planters) and in a 4' round galvanized stock tank with drainage holes drilled in the bottom, and got decent yields. However, I feel like I get the largest yield per plant from potatoes grown in the ground, so that's the only way I grow them now. When the weather is getting hot and it isn't raining, potatoes in containers can need to be watered as frequently as once a day, while those in the ground do not need such frequent irrigation. I grow mine in raised beds that are about 18" above grade level, and I dig down roughly 8-9" when planting seed potatoes. Once they emerge above the soil line, I mulch well and that is important, so leave room at the top of your container for several inches of mulch to protect potato tubers from turning green due to sunlight exposure, which renders them inedible (for safety reasons). It isn't that you cannot eat obviously green potatoes, but that you should not. When growing in containers, it is important to use a soil-less mix, not soil dug out of the ground, in order to have adequate drainage. Choose varieties recommended for Oklahoma, plant them on time (mid-Feb through early March), and keep them evenly moist all the time to avoid producing knobby potatoes. Do not over-irrigate or you can get cracked or split potatoes. Potatoes grow best when daytime temperatures are between 60-75 degrees and nighttime temperatures are between 45-55 degrees. Regardless of when you plant the potatoes, they are going to set and size up their tubers before the soil temperature reaches 85 degrees. If you plant too late, they won't get much time to produce tubers before we reach those temperatures. You dig them after the foliage dies back. If you leave potatoes in the soil once the standard OK heat/humidity set in for the summer, they can collapse into a watery, rotting mess, so harvest promptly. They are heavy feeders and like rich soil. If you are going to fertilize them, all the fertilizer (use a slow-release pelleted form that releases over a period of weeks to months) should be worked into the soil-less mix prior to planting. Avoid using too much nitrogen or you may get tons of foliage at the expense of the tubers. If you don't get a year's worth of potatoes from your spring plants, you can plant again for fall although it is hard to find seed potatoes for fall. You can get around this by buying extras in winter/spring and storing them in your refrigerator to keep them from sprouting too early. You generally cannot harvest your cool-season crop in May or June and then turn around and use the small potatoes almost immediately for the fall crop because just-harvested potatoes need a period of dormancy before sprouting can be induced. You also can try sprouting organic store-bought potatoes for fall (because the organic ones are not sprayed with anti-sprouting agents like conventional potatoes are).