That makes sense that the roots would spread out in to the other areas. In taking the samples I took the them from around the tree areas that I thought were most similar in soil composite. I am pretty sure that I can spot treat them with the recommended amounts in a 20 x 20. My thinking is maybe do this at least until the tress get bigger and the roots get spread out enough to take advantage of the surrounding soil. 5 of the 8 trees are in the at least some of the black soil. 3 are in the native soil. There is an unknown variety of 1 apple and 1 pear that are 30 years old according to the neighbor and these are in line with the 3 trees in the native soil. My concern was that I have found 4 or 5 stumps and my neighbor tells me they were all apple or pear and the previous neighbor cut them down because they were dying . The neighbor also said he has tried planting a few apple trees different times and the leaves start to curl(leaf hooper,mites or deficiency?) and they usually die in the second year. But he also said that none of the trees he planted put on as much growth as most of the ones I planted have. I could do nothing and see what happens. I am concerned about one Asian pear that leafed out and did not put on any new growth. This and the two apple which I would say all three are in the deepest black soil have smaller leaves then the rest of the trees. The two apple are putting on growth but the leaves are small. More Nitrogen? Thank you for all you insight so far. Its hard to believe that when i bought my house and thought I could throw in a couple of apple and pear trees over there could turn into be very overwhelming at times. I had dozens of ideas and a bunch of questions going through my mind. Now I down to only a dozen give or take.

Looking at soil sample did you get sample at 4 inches deep and at at least 10 places?if not you should repeat sample .with these results I would use 19-19-19 at slightly over 5 ponds per 1000 sq ft.or 10-10-10 at 10 pounds per sq ft.and use it all monthly from may-sept. the lab didn't test for iron,zinc,cooper,mag.,boron,etc then you need to find a lab that does.these are very important minerals that all yards have,and if they are low you improve your in one season by adding these minerals to your yard.example low boron -add 20 mule team laundry detergent.low zinc or cooper you buy zinc sulfate or copper sulfate comes in granular or powder form.you can order them from amazon.zinc sulfate for example you would buy a pound for the year and use 2 tablespoons of that.buy a bag of mil granite pour bag in wheel barrel put 1 tablespoon in and mix it for 5 minutes then very lite spray not a soaking after mixing well put other tablespoon in and mix for a couple more minutes.the put in a spreader and put down like fertilizer .if you are low on boron 2 tablespoons of twenty mule team low on zin then 2 tablespoon of zinc sulfate.you can add everything in the wheel barrow at the same time.and what you are doing is putting all the missing minerals back into the soil.

What are you planning on growing there? I am not sure why that lab would think a soil pH of 6.58 would be high since that is in the optimal range for most plants, except those that like an acidic soil. Then sample 2 has a soil pH of 5.66 and is listed as optimum and I have not seen anything, anywhere that lists that, for a lawn, as desireable. Everything I have seen on lawns and soil pH would be in the range of 6.2 to 6.8. I would dig in and look at what the level of organic matter was in those soils as well as how those soils drain, hold together (tilth), smell, and what kind of life is in them and these simple soil tests can help you determine that, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

The amount of organic matter in soil is important, even though most all of the Ag school soil test labs do not recognize that fact, again. However there are simple soil tests you can do that can help, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.