tomato plants ailing??

15 years ago

hey everyone i really need help in lodi, california (san joaquin) i have recently transplanted tomatoes a week and a half ago and for some reason i feel like they are doing bad. can anyone please help!! well i buried the stem for good root system and watered deeply. Then i started to water every day for a few days since they were transplants but someone told me it was too much,so i stopped and watered every 3 to four days but my problem is that the leaves are crisping on the tips and there are small tiny yellow blotches a few of the leaves. also few have flower buds on them should i pull them off to let the plant grow? last but not least should i give it fish emulsion or is it a virus? thank you very much!!!! by the way i never fertelized them

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Comments (12)

angie83
15 years ago
Try some manure tea it perks everything up .I add alittle coffee grinds and some liquad sea weed make it super mild.
faybrown
15 years ago
I'm in Sacramento and have been growing tomatoes from seed this year. I won't be planting them in the ground till the end of April. I'm no expert, but I have planted a lot of tomatoes, and I think the ground is still too cool. I'm sure someone with more expertise will have a more technical answer to your question, but that's my two cents.
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Forgive me if I sound overly blunt but your plant's problems are too many to go into great detail. Primarily it is your watering practices and your pruning practices. daily shallow watering creates shallow rooted plants that are totally water-root dependent. They are weak with poorly developed circulatory systems and so very stressed and prone to any passing disease. Water needs to be delivered deeply and less frequency. Drip irrigation lines are ideal for that purpose but one has to understand how they work and how water disperses through soil. If using 1/2 GPH emitters then in 20 min. your plants only get about a pint of water. Depending on the make-up of your soil that can be as little as and inch deep. So it seldom even reaches down to root level of the plants. They have to come up to the surface to get water. Drip lines using 1/2 GPH emitters are intended to run for a minimum of 1 hour and if the soil is deep enough for 2 hours once ot twice every 4-7 days depending on climate. Your beds are not even filled all the way up. So how much actual soil do they have to work with? why such aggressive pruning? Not only does it cost you all the production you would have had but it heavily stresses the plants and can cause stunting, pest and disease issues, nutrient circulation issues, heat tolerance issues, etc. Constructive pruning has a place in growing tomatoes but "snapping off all the suckers much less doing it all at the same time" (meaning some of them had already reached substantial size) is equivalent to butchering the plant and never necessary. So may I ask why? So both plants now have very shallow roots, minimal production, and a severe case of grey mold. They aren't salvageable so take what you can from them in the way of fruit then pull and pitch them and plan to replace them for your fall tomato growing season. Fill the bed with a good mix, alter your watering regimen substantially, and cut WAY back on the aggressive pruning next time. Hope this is of some help. Dave
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Based on the pictures you provided, it appears that the Epiphyllum German Empress has suffered from sunburn, which can cause the leaves to become dry and brittle. Although the plant may recover on its own over time, there are a few things you can do to help it along: 1.Move the plant to a shady location: While the plant needs some sunlight, too much direct sunlight can be harmful. Moving it to a shadier spot will help protect it from further damage. 2.Water the plant: Sunburn can cause the leaves to lose moisture, so make sure the plant is getting enough water to keep it hydrated. 3.Prune the damaged leaves: If the leaves are severely damaged, it may be best to prune them off. This will help the plant focus its energy on new growth. 4.Provide some extra care: You can also provide some extra care for the plant by fertilizing it with a balanced fertilizer and misting the leaves with water to increase humidity. Once the plant has had some time to recover, you can gradually introduce it to more sunlight again. Just make sure to monitor it closely to avoid further damage. And about your zig zag, it sounds like your zig zag plant may be experiencing some root or stem rot, which can cause the stems to become weak and fragile. This can happen due to overwatering or poor drainage, which can lead to fungal or bacterial infections. To help your plant recover, you should first remove any damaged or rotted stems and leaves. Then, check the soil and make sure it is well-draining and not waterlogged. It may be helpful to repot the plant in fresh, well-draining soil to ensure that it has good drainage. You should also adjust your watering routine to ensure that you are not overwatering the plant. To propagate the plant, you can take stem cuttings from the healthy parts of the plant and root them in water or moist soil. Make sure to sterilize your cutting tools before taking the cuttings to prevent the spread of any infections. With proper care and attention, your zig zag plant should recover and thrive! Good luck!
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digdirt2
15 years ago
I think the ground is still too cool

That would be my guess too. What is your soil temperature running? They will just sit there and not do much until the soil temps are at least 65-70 degrees or better. Yes, I'd remove the flower buds - they are too young and too stressed as it is.

leaves are crisping on the tips and there are small tiny yellow blotches a few of the leaves

Wind burn can cause some of the damage you describe and so can over-watering.

Dave
vall3fam
15 years ago
I'd say the soil is warm enough here to plant out, but I'd go with what Dave says about the windburn. We've had quite a bit of windy days lately here in the San Joaquin Valley, so that might contribute to your problem. Give them a chance and they'll get going in no time.

I'm planting mine out today.

Elaine
tn_veggie_gardner
15 years ago
What about yellowing spotty cotyledons on a 6-7 inch healthy seedling? Is that nutrient lack? Peace - Steve
jeremiah1
15 years ago
went through that last year. was losing my mind for the first 21 or so days after i set em out. Temps seemed fine, etc...hit em with little bit of food before i took em out of beer cups etc...thought was nutrient toxicity, overwatering, underwatering, etc...etc... When their root mass isn't super developed and the soil is really heavy it is much harder for the little roots to grow. They aren't "searching" for water so they are less motivated to grow...air helps, loose soil helps etc...

i think they could just be going through transplant shock. I have faith that they will get better. just water less and less often for a bit (like a beer cup every day or two at base of plant to make sure it has enough H20 to sustain life) temps matter and RH as well in regards to how much H20 they will actually use so i can't say "how much to water due to that". you can foliar with seaweed to help with nutrient issues if that is what it is.

I would breathe easy and let mother nature handle it. just my 2 cents, could be wrong, been before but patience and faith are good traits for gardening. good luck
corky1_2008 Harris
15 years ago
According to the garden guy in last saturday's Sacramento Bee, tomatoes should not be planted until the beginning of May. He said that if they are planted now they would sulk but be OK in the end. Peppers and eggplants on the otherhand would be forever stunted with limited yield if planted this early.
tn_veggie_gardner
15 years ago
This is what I meant by yellowing cotyledons on an otherwise healthy plant...

{{gwi:40588}}
digdirt2
15 years ago
It's is normal for the cotyledons to yellow, die and then fall off - happens faster with some varieties than others.

These have the classic look of too much water but the color of the whole plant - if it is accurately rendered by the camera - is anemic looking too so it could be in need of feeding plus less water.

Dave
tn_veggie_gardner
15 years ago
Ok, cool...thanks...I'll cut back on the water a little (these were watered a few minutes before the picture was taken) & give them a fertilizer boost sometime soon. I'm not too worried about them though as they are huge for only being 4 weeks and 1 day from seeds. :)
vall3fam
15 years ago
corky,
What was the origin for that article? If you wait until May, you're running into the beginning of the heat. The commercial guys started planting tomatoes and peppers two weeks ago.
Unless you're up in the hills above Sacramento, May would be to late, IMO.

I think they got that article from someone not from the area.

Elaine
therdyeargardener
14 years ago
I live in Tennessee. The month of may in tennessee this year has been very very very very rainy. I kept thinking everything in my garden this year would be washed away. But luckly nothing did because it was all on mounded centers. Now back to my problem with my ailing tomato plants. This year we tried buring them sidways with rootball along with part of the stem under the durt so that they would develop a stronger root system. As fair as i know that worked well. However the problem has persisted as the plants got older. The tops look almost dead wilted but still green. Not much leafing out is going on at the top part of the tomato plant. The lower leaf sets are doing pritty well. However they are starting to develop holes in them due to? What i dont know eather. Along the stems 1-2 feet off the ground r developing zitt like bubles and nodulars. I dont know if this is a pest problem or a water problem or a virus problem. Or a combination of all of it togeather we have about 25 plants and all are exibiting the same simptomes. I am new to gardening only my third year this one apearing to be the wetiest so far.

Any help or advice would be greatly apreachiate with my tomato problem

tomato plants ailing??

Comments (12)

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faybrown

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