With both my tomatos and beans, I notice growth slowing along with some general but slight yellowing of leaves - both remedied within 48-72 hours of a good fertilizing. Couple of plants showed a P shortage via some light violet/purple colors under leaves (mostly new growth).

Look for the older foliage to be turning chlorotic as the first indication. Later, if deficiencies get too bad, the plant will pull mobile nutrients from older foliage before it dries up or is shed. Reduced numbers of lateral breaks are also a good indication that N is lacking.

Al

On the 27th, I noted 4 of 40 plants with yellow leaves. after investigation- it appeared that there were no bugs, watering was ok, and all the pots had big plants in them.

I added my standard 1 tbls each spoon lime, azomite and 3-1-2 water soluble fertilizer. I clipped yellow leaves from 3 (phone rang), watered and put little notes on the pots.

Next afternoon I come out and there are 2 plants with lots of yello leaves.. I think... only 50% success with the fertilizer -- better get some opinion before I "bet the farm".

Little did I know (I find this out today) that one of the two plants with yellow leaves is a new one with no treatment, and the other one is the one I treated but did not cut the yellow leaves off-- phone rang.

so now all 5 are treated, and trimmed.

But there is another one! this one is easy to figure out--- WAy too big for its two gallon pot.. (I lost the label and thought it a Patio picnic... guess NOT)

so it gets up-potted.

Trying to grow big plants in pots too small makes for late season headaches.. keeping them watered in the heat with lots of growth, this causing even more fertilizer leaching when the plant needs even more nutrients, not to mention using yellow staking tape, making it harder to eyeball the yellow leaves.

I wish I had some time release 3-1-2 fert, with everything in the fert bin you would think, but no .. so going shopping for another fertilizer. And green staking material. and more sta-green.

I just bought more bark and more Perlite... I did not care for that other stuff -
"Red Pro's Choice infield conditioner" I should have just waited for the perlite to come in.

d

Growing plants in too small of a container is one thing - getting the water and fertilizer right is another.

I grew my first cherry tomatoes in 5 gal pots and they grew just fine and put out tomatoes until frost (end of Oct). I moved them up to 7 gal. pots - they liked that. This year, the cherry tomatoes are in 10 gal pots and they are so happy and productive - they are 7-8 feet tall. I ran out of stakes a few times this year. ;-)

I used a 5-6-5 slow release fertilizer and only 2 of my 19 plants have shown signs of needing fertilizer. I gave them some Miracle grow for tomatoes and they look just fine now. Since I have used the red plastic mulch, it is easier to use a liquid form at this stage.

I water everyday once the temps really warm up and it is a matter of learning what each type of plant needs. If they are in a good sized pot, watering daily simply keeps the moisture level the same - not too dry and not too wet. If the pot is small, you may have to water twice a day in the heat. If the water is seeping out the bottom of the pot, you have overwatered. Try to find the amount that moistens the plant but doesn't run out. You won't have such an issue with the fertilizer as it won't leech out. I learned that one the hard way. ;-)

BTW, I use 15 gal pots for the big tomatoes, 12 gal for my eggplants (awesome harvest), 5 gal for peppers (may move up to 7 gal next year) and all of my herbs are in at least 8" pots with most being in 10" or larger.

What I have learned with containers is pretty much what we learn with seedlings - the bigger the pot, the bigger the plant. I move mine up several times before they are in their final pot. My tomatoes were planted the last week of May and all were 2 feet or more. If they have "leg room", they won't disappoint you.

I use Pro-Mix and compost with a ratio of 2-1. Most garden centers and farm stores now carry the pro-mix that comes in 3 cu foot bales for about $30-35. It is a real bargain. My plants love the mix.

It takes a bit of learning to get it just right for your situation and selection of plants. Just remember that we all started some where. Next year, you will have all this under your belt and you and your garden will have a much better summer. And next year, my herbs and greens will be a lot happier, too!

I am OK with the smaller pots keeping the plants a little smaller, as long as things are healthy.

Smaller fruit, smaller production is ok for now. If these 40 plants were much bigger, it would be overwhelming.

Part of the issue may be that they are root bound and need more leg room. Water and fertilizer can't make up for crowded roots.

As well, you could end over fertilizing making them even more root bound and thus begins the endless circle of trying to sort out what to do to fix the problem.

I do understand that it is expensive to go to larger containers - I've been working on that myself.
Plants that are larger, healthier and have plenty of leg room will produce a more than smaller plants.

Something to think about.

I just had this problem. Last week we got 7 inches of rain here in Chicago. That's a lot of rain. I fertilized my big plants (tomatoes, eggplants, cukes,etc.) after the rain but forgot to fertilize my habeneros. Stupid stupid stupid. The habs went from a full lush green which looked like my best crop ever, to a bunch of scraggly plants which looked like my worst crop ever. I have since fertilized them and hope for the best but never again will I forget to fertilize after heavy heavy rains.