Here is a little info on it. Thanks everyone for the rapid replies, I was a convinced at first it was good stuff but now I am a little woried. BioComp BioComp®, a Class I quality compost, is a stabilized organic material that can be used with all plant types and in any type of soil (sandy to clay). This compost (screened 3/8 inch minus) greatly enhances overall soil structure and improves movement of air and water within the soil  essential to healthy plant growth. When salts are a critical design factor, BioComp® is the compost of choice. Low salts also mean that you can safely double the amount of compost used and still have vigorous plant growth. Salt in BioComp® are primarily from nutrient salts and not sodium chloride, as indicated by an ag index greater than 10. BioComp® is listed by the Colorado Department of Agriculture as an amendment approved for use on Organically Certified Crops. Independent testing by Colorado State University confirm that BioComp® safely provides higher levels of nutrients. Application Rates: As a Top Dressing  BioComp® can be used as a top dressing, however the large particles limit its use to where grass is mowed high.  1/4" to 3/8 (1 to 2 CY/1000 sq ft) As a Soil Amendment  BioComp® can be used at any time of the year, in any type of soil. It is especially well suited for use in clay soils where it can be used at twice the normal application rate.  3 CY/1000 sq ft or 1" Deep  6 CY/1000 sq ft or 2" Deep As a Mulch This is one of the few composts that can be safely used an a mulch. It can be used for the protection of flower beds, especially perennials and sensitive root crops.  6 CY/1000 sq ft or 2" Inches Deep  12 CY/1000 sq ft or 4" Inches Deep (Fall application only. Till in the spring.) This compost product has been sampled and tested as required by the Seal of Testing Assurance Program of the United States Composting Council (USCC). Test results are available upon request by calling A1 Organics at 970-454-3492. Class I Compost

10CY sounds about right as a soil amendment. As fertilizer, you need a lot less, perhaps 0.5-0.8 CY. Bought at a garden center, it will cost a fortune. But - you don't need to add it in one year - you can dilute the manure cost with some heavy wood chip mulch (plus some nitrogen). The wood chips will eventually compost, and they should be free of charge if you contact a tree company and ask them to bring you a load. - you can further dilute it by collecting bags of dead leaves and yard clippings in your neighborhood. Discard only the bags with grass clippings treated with pesticides. All the mulch that you pile this year is compost you don't have to buy next year. You still have to get 10CY of organic material eventually. See if some dairy or horse stable will deliver manure to you, and load up on dead leaves this october.

does it matter that this isn't manure compost but stuff from kitchen and browns from yard? No. Better in fact as manured compost requires longer processing before use around food. do you think i can do this in lieu of fertilizing with miracle gro or something similiar? Compost worked into the soil provides nutrients immediately. Compost used as mulch doesn't. It takes time for the soil food web to work it down into the root zone. Whether or not you will also need supplemental nutrients all depends on your soil nutrient levels. how often should i do this? every 2 weeks? There is no set time plan. That will all depend on your weather and soil activity and how thickly you apply it. If you haven't already done so you may want to check out the many discussions on this issue over on the Soil & Composting forum here. Dave

I've often used half finished compost and never had a problem. Mine is usually less decomposed than yours sounds. I dig a trench. throw it in, cover it over and plant.