Actually. I had spent quite a bit of time answering this question on the other thread - complete with pictures, but when I went back to the thread to check for comments, there was my post - GONE! I must have screwed up somehow and it never made it to the thread. I'll remember what I can of what I wrote & prolly think of something else later, after work.

Al

Thanks much.

First, I think that most reading this are laboring under the impression that if you change to a fertilizer with a lower N content, say a 2:1:2 or a 1:1:2 ratio, that you're automatically going to see a difference in the plant's growth habit, but that's not necessarily so. Second, let's examine just how important reducing N is (to fruit/blooms) when using bark-based container soils.

When plants are growing well, they tolerate a higher concentration of salts/fertilizers in the soil (solution). Since plants tend to take what they need and leave the rest, fertilizing to meet the plants N needs with a fertilizer that has a lower % of N (than 3:1:2) accomplishes 1 thing - it simply supplies too much P and K for normal growth.

Example: If you were using a 3:1:2 ratio fertilizer to meet the plants N needs, all 3 of the primary macros should be reaching deficiency levels at the same time, so when you fertilize again, the soluble salts level is as low as it can be & the plant puts on growth at it's normal rate. If you switch to a 2:1:2 ratio fertilizer (if you can find one) because it has less N, N will be the first element that becomes deficient. If you're fertilizing on a schedule that ensures an adequate N supply, or if you're watching plant color and fertilize as soon as the older leaves lighten, what have you changed? Nothing except you're supplying extra P & K the plant can't use.

IOW - it's the GROWER that supplies N at deficiency levels to induce certain growth characteristics (a reduction in vegetative growth or bloom/fruit induction), not the fertilizer. Better than the above scenario would be to fertilize using your 3:1:2 ratio at reduced rates and supplementing the K with Pro-TeKt 0-0-3. You might say that solves the N and K issue, but now there isn't enough P, but the chemical characteristics of bark are: Very high in P and good amounts of K. Usually deficient Ca, Mg, and S. Potentially low in B and Zn, and a potentially high Fe:Mn ratio. The "high in P" is why bark-based soils and reduced rates of 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers + supplemental K work very well.

To be honest, if any of you want to go to a 2:1:2 ratio fertilizer and can find one, let us know what it is, because it would be easier than using 3:1:2 ratios & supplementing the K, and maybe 1:1:1 ratios are 'close enough, but again, the grower still has the responsibility of seeing the N supply is limited, or changing fertilizers is for naught.

The other thread had something about peppers that hadn't set fruit, & something about tomatoes, too. Here's a picture of my tomatoes this year
{{gwi:40523}}
I'm happy with how healthy (haven't used any fungicides at all this year) they are & how much fruit they have on them. The two containers on the far right are part of a test I'm doing for the Ups-A-Daisy Company's inserts, as are the two mixed floral plantings in the foreground.
{{gwi:40524}}
{{gwi:40525}}

So far, I've only used FP 9-3-6 on all of these plants from the day I potted them. I don't think I'll switch to a reduced amount of N this year - it doesn't seem warranted.

I didn't put in any peppers this year (my brother has tons) but I did put an ornamental in a pot, and that seems to have produced ample fruit with the 3:1:2 fertilizer
{{gwi:40526}}

And here's one just for fun - all FP 9-3-6 and no shortage of blooms, but I prolly should have deadheaded the cals before I took the pic.
{{gwi:3251}}

FWIW, I think we're seeing some N immobilization when we use the 5:1:1 mix, which is why we probably don't see the runaway foliage in the veggie crops we worry so much about. Just a thought.

I hope I made sense. I can hardly keep my eyes open (up late reading last night & up early this AM) and had some difficulty keeping it together as I muddled through this. ;o)

Al

I'm experiencing a similar situation; everything seems happy as can be and I have a lot of blooms - on tomatoes, okra and flowers. But, I'd heard you mention reducing N. I also remember reading a U of Florida (I think) article that JAG posted long ago about the amounts of nutes used throughout the life of the plant. I do recall that at a few points, the ratio wasn't quite the same.

But, if the ration of P was increased, a 3:1:2 would probably still work because in most cases, they really need only 3 N to .5-.7 P to 2 K. I seem to recall the K being increased in some plants, but not how much, nor when. I'd have to look at the chart to find out.

Thank you. I'm about as tired as you, I am guessing, so am leaving this for digestion until later. When you get a chance, I did ask another question regarding the thickness of leaves. It often takes me a few days to think about/digest while I'm doing other things and then questions pop up.

Hope you ended up with enough sleep tonight. Hope I do, too, as I also was shorted last night and it's not looking good tonight. Grrrr.

I just had to say that this thread is very interesting and your plants look FANTASTIC Al.

It is always a treat to see your pictures and to learn from someone that has helped me to attain the beauties like you have,,

Thank you

Hope you got some good sleep, the both of you, because I sure didn't watching Americas got talent..lol

Mike