I have not been over watering...planted them up in 3 inch peat pots. I bottom water them until the peat pot is wet and then don't water them again until the soil and pot is bone dry and some of the seedlings start to wilt just a little. I know you don't think you are over watering but you are or the leaves wouldn't be yellowing. And the peat pots are contributing to the problem which is why many of us won't use them - ever. The peat pots wick water up too quickly and then wick it away from the soil and the plant roots thus forcing you to water more frequently. When you water until the pot is wet it is too much water for the roots and the leaves yellow. Then the pot dries quickly and begins to pull the water out of the soil drying it out and making you think you need to water again. If you cannot get rid of the peat pots and move the plants into plastic cups which is the recommended solution, then you will have to water them from the top using a small watering can so that only the soil itself is watered until it is only slightly moist. Make sure the pot gets little of it. The check the deeper soil moisture level, not the pot condition, before watering again. Going from real wet to bone dry should be avoided at all costs. You want a consistent LOW level of moisture in the soil. Hope this helps. Dave PS: lots of discussions about the many problems with peat pots here you might want to read for future reference. And do be sure to strip it all off the plants before transplanting them.

They are under a "natural Light" fluorescent bulb, 48" long, with my other seedlings. My husband said that he thought that I had the light too close. It was less than four inches from the morning glories. The other seedlings are all so much shorter that I was hesitant to move the light up much higher. I have now. I just hope that they are able to repair themselves, if that is what the problem was. The new leaves are continuing to grow well. Also, I had the light on for 14-16 hours a day. Is that too much time for the flower's needs. The veggies are all very happy. Thanks!

Actually, 'sunscald' is something that happens to bark, usually on the S-SW side of the tree in winter while the tree is dormant and frozen. It can also occur on fruit that was in the shade but is suddenly exposed to direct sun. The technical word for what you're witnessing is photo-oxidation, but more commonly - sunburn. A copy/paste from one of my other posts, recently left on this forum: W/o a sufficient period of adjustment, high light intensity levels can cause chlorophyll molecules to rise to a more excited state than normal. If light levels are high enough, the energy that is released as electrons in molecules return to their normal energy state may be sufficient to form oxygen radicals from O2. These are the same O2- radicals found in H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide - a bleaching agent) and are extremely reactive particles that readily destroy chlorophyll molecules. The entire process and technical term is photo-oxidation, but we commonly refer to it as sunburn. It's not reversible. Al

Hi, when you say that the leaves "turned white" what do you mean? I ask because I have some moonflowers that are growing very prolificly, but have almost like scorched spots on some of the leaves. I wanted to make sure this wasn't a disease or an infestation but I've searched and searched and not found anything except the 4 Lined Plant Bug, but I can't find pictures of what they do to the plant. I'm hoping it is just sun scorch. Have any of you tried spraying your plants with an insecticide or fungicide? If so how did it react? I'm afraid to damage the leaves. Thanks!