Retaining wall along fence line

15 years ago

Hello, DH and I would like to build a retaining wall against our backyard fenceline, for both asethics as well as privacy. Our yard is a typical suburban 1/4 acre lot, and the back is already small because of the patio/garden/swingset. We would be using the same or similar retaining blocks as our patio (I'd love something more natural but just not in the budget).

I'm looking for suggestions on how to design the wall so it will look good and give us the most space. Obviously a straight line across won't look as nice as one with a wave or curve to it. Curved on both ends, straight across the middle? Wavy all the way across?

Thank you for any suggestions or photos you can share.

Here are a few photos:

{{gwi:27435}}

{{gwi:27436}}

{{gwi:27437}}

{{gwi:27438}}

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (4)

holleygarden Zone 8, East Texas
15 years ago
You have a very nice place. Love the patio and plantings. I take it you're wanting raised planting beds along the fence? That could be beautiful. Plan carefully. I would definitely use curves - put some water hoses along the ground to determine where you want the beds to be. They will not need to take up the entire fence line. Even beds at ground level could give you the same privacy for less money.
diginthedirt17
Original Author
15 years ago
Thank you holleygarden; good idea with the hoses, we will do that this weekend. I had planned to take the fence all the way across the back fence, you think separate beds would be another option?

The first photo shows a bed used just in the middle, maybe an evergreen tree on either side?

And I like the curves of the second photo...
{{gwi:27439}}

{{gwi:27440}}
Related Discussions
Need color help with raised beds / retaining wall
Q
Comments (5)
A couple of easy suggestions come to mind... If you build the planters out of wood, the side walls could be painted to match the wall color, and the interior faces of the raised wood walls could be backed all around with a waterproofing membrane in combination with a vertically applied drainage material product such as Mirafi. Which is a filter fabric backing applied to a plastic waffle drainage layer which provides quick drainage and also acts as an air gap helping to preserve the life of the wood and keep the painted surface more stable because the wood remains drier. This would allow you to skip the 6 inch gap at the walls of the house and still avoid moisture penetration. A wood and painted wall, perhaps replicating the horizontal lapped siding look would contrast ni sly against the existing brick. Perhaps using a matching brick for raised walls away from the house at the back yard would be an approach for the back yard. Alternating heights of walls and switching between painted wood and matching brick can also give a contemporary look for the back yard situation. I'd not suggest matching brick at the front unless you prefer the walls "disappear" against the walls, rather than contrast them. You could also use backerboard material for walls which is made for interior shower wall construction, and use a thick stucco-like paint on product with integral color added in lieu of wood and paint, there are several competing products on the market formulated to give a painted stucco look at less cost.
...See More
Attaching low retaining wall to fence post
Q
Comments (13)
Yogy, there is no need for retaining walls here. Incorporating them would only add complication and expense to your project, create a less desirable patio than otherwise could have been had and lean toward "junking up" the appearance...simply because they are uneccessary. At most what you need to do is rework the bottom of the fence at the side where the gate is to make it accommodate the new patio grade. It would be much easier to construct a patio like this if the fence was not in the way. If you can disconnect the fence panels and move them out of the way while the patio is being built it will be a big help. The posts can stay and will not be a problem to work around. You'll need a 6 1/2" - 7" depth excavation in order to accommodate all the layers that comprise the paver patio. It looks like that excavation is already started near the side door just off of the walk. The patio should meet flush the edge of the existing walk unless you intend to do away with the walk. If its surface is in good condition, uniform, and you are content with its appearance, there's no need for you to remove it. The soil that you excavate can be used to retain the patio at areas where there is a dip in the grade. It can be used to blend the grade and fill in any other areas where you need it around the yard. When doing a project like this you must figure out all the drainage ahead of time. Your pictures don't show the other side of the fence and what's behind the camera. One picture suggests that the grade falls off in the direction of the camera. Just make sure that all the water that falls on the patio will have unimpeded access to lower ground so that no water pools. If you think any of it is questionable, you should add more pictures that show an expanded area where the pictures explain the conditions.
...See More
New 60" high privacy fence along south property line
Q
Comments (3)
I think you are overestimating the amount of shade this fence will cast. 5' is not all that tall and in midsummer there should be minimal shade during midday as the sun is more or less directly overhead......just some early morning shade. In winter, the sun is lower in the horizon and that will create a shadier situation but that is often much less of a concern due to plant dormancy. My old garden had a 6' tall privacy fence on top of a concrete retaining wall (maybe 7' height in total) along its southern edge and the area directly in front of the fence received very little shade. And that's with being considerably further north than you with the summer sun at a much lower aspect. Any plant suitable for part shade will work.
...See More
Screening Height Needed for deciduous trees along fence line?
Q
Comments (15)
No, not straight line. That's why I'm cautioning you that this must be worked out in PLAN view ... so you can know what you're looking at. What I'm showing is a scheme ... generalities. A designer would fine tune its specifics ... what the trees are, and their form, size, etc. The two bright green trees are yours already in place. I'm just showing them grown some. The 6 trees right of the others are new ones I added. 3 smaller are in a line along the fence. The larger ones are in a triangular arrangement with two in the back row, thus the swelled bed. But ... do in plan view for accuracy and correctness. You'd plant smaller trees at the midline of a 6' or 8' depth bed, i.e., 3' or 4' from fence. Larger trees in a larger bed would be farther from the fence but worked out by the designer depending on the exact trees. In general, I think multi-trunk (clumping) trees have more presence, especially if they are part of a screen. But it's your choice. You can use single trunk trees if you prefer. I think they tend to look a little skimpier, but are probably fine in later years.
...See More
holleygarden Zone 8, East Texas
15 years ago
Oh! The curves in the bottom are gorgeous.

I would probably do a combination of them both. Like picture #1, I would go 'out' from the back of the fence line, (why explained below) then curve along like picture #2.

Be sure to imagine the hoses on the ground as a 'wall' and remember that this will be loss of yard space as your children get larger. (throwing balls, etc.)

Very important: One thing you need to remember is that the raised bed will effectively 'lower' your fence. So, if you have dogs or children they may be able to jump over the fence easier, and you may not want this. See how easy it would be for them to jump the fence in picture 1? Now, your land seems to slope upward toward the back, so this may not be the case if you keep the beds along the back, and not attach to your side fence line.

Also, be sure you have the back of the planting bed designed before you start. Any dirt you put back there will fall through the fence cracks if not held in place somehow. See how picture 2 holds everything in pace with a solid fence (that is also very tall! so jumping over it is not a problem). Again, because of your slope, if you don't attach to the side fence lines, and only build the retaining walls up to the height of bottom of the back fence line, that shouldn't be a problem.

Did you do the patio area yourself? I just want you to know how much work this may become. Those blocks are fairly easy to work with, however, you will still have some digging (due to the slope of your yard) and the bottom blocks must be level to look right. This could be a gorgeous addition to your yard, just make sure you have thought it all out before starting. :)
diginthedirt17
Original Author
15 years ago
Thank you again holleygarden for your thoughtful answer! The second photo is gorgeous, isn't it?

DH and I are pulling out the hoses today to find the right shape for the retaining wall. He did the wall around the patio himself - he loves these types of projects and is a perfectionist so he really takes the time to do it right. The wall hasn't moved an inch in 10 years!

I don't have to worry about the kids jumping the fence - there are coyotes in the field at night and the kiddos are semi-petrified of what's "in the field" - now the dog is a different matter!

We'll be working on the project today - thank you again for bringing up good points and I'm sure we'll be back with more advice! :)

Retaining wall along fence line

Comments (4)

holleygarden Zone 8, East Texas

diginthedirt17
Original Author

Related Discussions

holleygarden Zone 8, East Texas

diginthedirt17
Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Retaining wall along fence line

Comments (4)

holleygarden Zone 8, East Texas

diginthedirt17Original Author

Related Discussions

holleygarden Zone 8, East Texas

diginthedirt17Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

diginthedirt17
Original Author

diginthedirt17
Original Author