No need to keep rototilling it. I would think that the mushroom compost would be enough to fertilize the soil. If you are worried about weeds coming in before you plant, you might consider putting down some sort of mulch, plastic, landscaping fabric, etc. Then you can just make holes in the mulch to put your seedlings in when you're ready to plant, and the weeds will be supressed between the plants.

Tomatoes are I believe heavy feeders, so whether you should add more compost depends on the soil. How much mushroom compost did you add on how big of a plot?

Why not take a soil sample and get a soil test done at your county extension office? Its cheap, and FUN. It will tell you exactly what you need to add to the soil to make it ideal for tomatoes/peppers. If you call they will have instructions for you, and they are very helpful in general. I just dug down 10 inches and took a slice of soil off the side. It was about $15, and the result was this:

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So I converted from 30 lbs of 10-10-10 to 600 lbs of 0.5-0.5-0.5 composted manure and did this:

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I'm new at this too, and so far my favorite soil amendment is Black Kow well composted manure, 0.5-0.5-0.5. It takes pure clay if you till enough in it makes it quite loamy.

I've found that repeated tilling helps keep my bermuda grass away, but I didn't bother to strip it, so every week is probably more than you need to till. A few times between now and planting should be fine.

Get a soil test! The science part makes it really fun :)

Here is a link that might be useful: New Jersey Extension Office

Well you certainly can not go wrong by adding more and more compost to your soil and tilling it in. You should also water after the till so any weeds will germinate and then be tilled under again. Tomacco's advise for a soil test is a good one, then you will know if you need to raise or lower ph etc. Bone meal & Blood meal are another good addition as well as your native "Jersey Greensand"
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Agree with an earlier post that there is no need to keep rototilling, and in fact it is not a good idea to do more than you have. If the soil has been under sod for a long time it will probably have a fair bit of fertility already and the compost you have put in will have boosted it, so don't stress out too much this year about fertilizer. You would be advised to compost the sod you took up, as there is a lot of fertility in that. Stack it in a pile with green side facing green side for a year or two, and then add it back to the garden. For fertilizer I use a recipe by Steve Solomon called complete organic fertilizer -- COF -- which contains alfalfa or cottonseed meal (you can get a 50lb bag of alfalfa meal for less than $20 bucks at any store that provides feed for horses), bone meal or alternatively rock phosphate, greensand, lime and a little gypsum -plants, especially tomatoes, need calcium and the lime and gypsum provide this. Check out Solomon's book "Gardening when it counts" or google his name and cof and you should track down a recipe. I have been very happy with the results, and the fertilizer is organic and improves the soil. But you do have to mix it up yourself.

Forget about the praying mantises and lady bugs. Praying mantises are a very minor predator in most gardens, and in any event will eat other good bugs. Lady bugs are common and if you get aphids they will come of their own account. They are both a complete waste of money. I rarely have insect pest problems on tomatoes, and have never had them on peppers. You are more likely to get disease problems. I have found the following to work well with tomatoes here in Maryland: I make a hole and put a little COF at the bottom, mixing it with the soil. I get my tomato transplant and strip off the bottom leaves and plant it with most of the stem in the ground. It will quickly form roots along the stem and a much stronger root system than it otherwise would. Once the soil has warmed up and the plant grown a bit, I then mulch heavily with straw. This stops mud from spraying back up at the plant when it rains, which is one of the ways disease is transmitted. I keep the stems free of leaves and branches for about the bottom foot of the plant, which I have trellised. I avoid watering plants from above so that the leaves get wet, but use a cheap drip hose or a watering can aimed at the ground. It is not a bad idea to surround the tomato or pepper plants when you first plant them with a collar about 1 inch high made from an old toilet paper roll (without the paper of course), to prevent cutworms from chewing down the stalks. This is cheap insurance. Good luck with your garden. Forget about ever buying tomatoes from the supermarket again.