Help needed for new e-book on vegetable gardening
vegeresearcher
14 years ago
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gardendawgie
14 years agogreenbean08_gw
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Need book or chart on Vegetable gardening in the southzone 8
Comments (8)You've gotten great advice here, Philotea. I'll only add serious agreement to what Anney said about finding a chart/guide for your area. All zone 8s are not the same. My zone 8 most likely gets hotter and drier (and stays that way *sigh*) longer than many other zone 8s, so my gardening guide would be different than, say, Seattle's guide. I also agree with the info on soil temps ~ I've long known that soil temp greatly affects germination and growing, but never watched it closely. I just bought a soil thermometer (less than ten bucks) and plan to check things out more accurately now. Here's a soil temp chart I plan to use. Keep in mind that soil temp info is fairly universal, as is the veggie variety hardiness info they give (though I find broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and kale are more hardy than they say), but the rest of the info on that chart may not be accurate for you (dates are based on the company's zone, and I like to space some of my things a bit closer than they say to). That does look like a good book, MarlinGardener! Wish I'd read this before I bought a couple other books from Amazon a couple weeks ago. Oh, well ~ that just means I have to find another book to buy to qualify for that free shipping. ;) I haven't been gardening as long as you (I'm about 15 years short), but do know I still have lots to learn. One of my fave gardening quotes: "Though an old man, I am yet a young gardener." ~ Thomas Jefferson...See MoreNew Vegetable Garden Advice Needed
Comments (4)Agree with an earlier post that there is no need to keep rototilling, and in fact it is not a good idea to do more than you have. If the soil has been under sod for a long time it will probably have a fair bit of fertility already and the compost you have put in will have boosted it, so don't stress out too much this year about fertilizer. You would be advised to compost the sod you took up, as there is a lot of fertility in that. Stack it in a pile with green side facing green side for a year or two, and then add it back to the garden. For fertilizer I use a recipe by Steve Solomon called complete organic fertilizer -- COF -- which contains alfalfa or cottonseed meal (you can get a 50lb bag of alfalfa meal for less than $20 bucks at any store that provides feed for horses), bone meal or alternatively rock phosphate, greensand, lime and a little gypsum -plants, especially tomatoes, need calcium and the lime and gypsum provide this. Check out Solomon's book "Gardening when it counts" or google his name and cof and you should track down a recipe. I have been very happy with the results, and the fertilizer is organic and improves the soil. But you do have to mix it up yourself. Forget about the praying mantises and lady bugs. Praying mantises are a very minor predator in most gardens, and in any event will eat other good bugs. Lady bugs are common and if you get aphids they will come of their own account. They are both a complete waste of money. I rarely have insect pest problems on tomatoes, and have never had them on peppers. You are more likely to get disease problems. I have found the following to work well with tomatoes here in Maryland: I make a hole and put a little COF at the bottom, mixing it with the soil. I get my tomato transplant and strip off the bottom leaves and plant it with most of the stem in the ground. It will quickly form roots along the stem and a much stronger root system than it otherwise would. Once the soil has warmed up and the plant grown a bit, I then mulch heavily with straw. This stops mud from spraying back up at the plant when it rains, which is one of the ways disease is transmitted. I keep the stems free of leaves and branches for about the bottom foot of the plant, which I have trellised. I avoid watering plants from above so that the leaves get wet, but use a cheap drip hose or a watering can aimed at the ground. It is not a bad idea to surround the tomato or pepper plants when you first plant them with a collar about 1 inch high made from an old toilet paper roll (without the paper of course), to prevent cutworms from chewing down the stalks. This is cheap insurance. Good luck with your garden. Forget about ever buying tomatoes from the supermarket again....See MoreRecommendations for vegetable gardening reference book
Comments (11)I have a shelf full of gardening books, Eliot Coleman, Ed Smith, and others. I'm sorry to say that although all these books have useful information, they also all contain erroneous information. I have not found one source of information that is authoritative and current. I suppose it's the currency of the information that's the issue. You'd think that after how-many thousands of years of farming and gardening, we'd have learned something. But they are still finding out some very important lessons that have not yet made it into consumer-level print. For example, the information about mycorrhizal relationships, and how to nurture them is still mostly found on-line. If I had to pick one, I'd go with one of Eliot Coleman's latest books. But this forum is one of the best sources of information and ideas. Check out posts by loid (pt03), borderbarb, dan_staley, cyrus_gardener, digdirt. I'll have to check John Jeavon's book from the library....See MoreNeed help Organic Vegetable garden, new to area
Comments (2)The University of Florida site has lots of great information, and try your county's Cooperative Extension website, too! Couple things you'll probably find are quite different here than the Pacific Northwest: FULL SUN: Anything that says it needs "full sun" does NOT mean Central-Florida-in-the-middle-of-July full sun. Almost nothing edible can really take that heat with no problems, except maybe okra. So if you could arrange your garden so there's some partial, dappled shade, that'd probably serve you well in the long run. NEMATODES: We have sandy soil that root-knot nematodes just adore, so prepare to deal with the little devils. About the only organic thing I've heard of that might slow them down is cover-cropping with French dwarf marigolds, and that I've heard mixed reviews on. Lots of people here say it's best to grow tomatoes & peppers in pots to avoid the nematodes; and some people bury the pots in the ground to keep the roots cool (search pot-in-pot method, or "buried pots" in the forums, you'll see lots of advice there) WATERING RESTRICTIONS: You probably don't see much of those in the rainy Pacific Northwest, but we tend to have a lot of them here, and your plants will be broiling in a few months. If you could set yourself up with some rain-collection barrels, you'd probably be glad you did. I've been told that some cities and counties will even give you one for FREE, but I'm not sure. Good luck with it! Post us some pics when you get rolling, and meantime, welcome to the Sunshine State!...See Morelazyhat
14 years agofusion_power
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14 years agoprimarycanary
14 years agogreenacresgirl
14 years agodrayven
14 years agoeaglesgarden
14 years ago
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