untreated 1 ft 2 in 12 ft

sassymesclunsalad - Will the untreated wood rot out too quickly? Is this what you typically use? Thanks

I used cinder blocks for mine. I tried staining them with ironite, but I need to do it again with a stronger solution. I went two blocks high, with the holes up and planted a few holes so far. Surprisingly things are growing well in the holes. I really thought they would be more unhappy in such a small area, but so far so good. My intention is to one day have all the holes full of herbs and succulents that will cascade over the edges and hide the ugly blocks.

Another great thing about the holes is that you can leave a few here and there empty to hold up a trellis. We spanned two beds with an arbor that we made out of cedar tree branches. We first put about an inch or pea gravel in the bottom, then put in the tall vertical, then filled up to the top with more pea gravel. It's surviving so far after cukes growing on it and now has malabar spinach. I like the fact that when it rots we can just pull it out.

"formal" usually = "expensive"

there's lots of stuff you can do, rock walls, stamped/colored cement walls, paver walls, all would provide that formal look. a nice slate or brick path between the raised beds would finish the look.

cheaper alternative would be cinder block walls, then mortar some facing stone to the cinder block, facing stone has length and width, but is not very thick.

trsinc you could probably do the same to hide those 'ugly' walls

I saw pics of an herb garden planted with troughs made of hyperturfa (sp?); but you wouldn't want a bottom to them would you? Just make hyperturfa blocks or really big troughs without the bottoms in them. Not too high, 2' maybe?

Thanks everyone for your comments & suggestions. I've been researching tonight and am curious about redwood or cedar. Are they treated with chemicals? Is that a good choice for a raised bed? Thanks

Untreated pine should be avoided. They'll rot out in less than 2 years. I'd go with the redwood or cedar.

My first two beds were untreated pine, 2x10's. Maybe it's because of the two inch thickness, but they have lasted for 6 years now, and still look fine.

When you say formal, do you mean Victorian? I live in a Victorian house, c.1892, and I dearly love this style of home, and while my front yard is more formal, my vegetable garden in the back yard is just plain country because it is utilitarian. I could make it appear more formal by dividing it from the rest of the yard by planting a hedge and keeping it tightly trimmed. Here's a link you might want to look at that involves creating a Victorian garden.As you may know, Victorians were the ones who first became interested in gardening as a hobby and importing all kinds of exotics. I just wish I could keep a palm alive because my house is very dark with wide, wide overhanging eaves. Hope you like the link.

http://www.lifescript.com/channels/healthy_living/Life_Tips/6_tips_for_creating_a_victorian_garden.asp?trans=1&du=1&gclid=CN6Gq4yikpUCFQNfFQoduQGAfQ&ef_id=1350:3:c_630e3bc823bae7ecdaa9c3c116b9c20b_931559765:IY9MmUo-JyoAAFOKmUMAAAAS:20080816113511

Thanks aulani for the link. That does sound a lot like my yard. I've been doing some research and I guess the style of my vegetable garden will be a potager. I am trying to figure out the design.

It sounds like I can go with either untreated cedar, redwood or pine as long as it is thick. If my garden is a success, several years down the road, I can always update to something more permanent like brick beds. For now, I want the cheapest and most practical. Thanks everyone!

Nice article, thanks for sharing.

I like the idea of brick, esp. if you could find a cache of old brick; or somehow age newer ones to get that "old" look. I remember reading that Gertrude Seiberling, (Stan Hywett, Akron Ohio tudor mansion) buried a large shipment of bricks to give them the look of a hundred year old brick, when designing building projects about the grounds.

My husband built a raised bed for me this year. We used untreated 2"X8"X10' fir. Yes eventually they will rot. But years down the road, but the wood is cheap and this was a test garden for me anyways. So no big deal to me if the wood needs to be replaced in a couple years. No point in spending all that money on longer lasting product. Don't forget that the soil will need to be amended or changed out every year...so again I'm fine with using cheaper wood.