Greening, I agree with NGraham that the best time to move these is when the foliage begins to yellow/die back. Unfortunately for you, that means after they've finished blooming. You could cut off the buds, I guess, or cut the flowers as they open and float them in water. I wouldn't cut too much of the stem along with the flowers, since the leaves on these usually go right up to the buds--and bulbs use their leaves to build and store carbohydrate reserves for next year's blooms. For that reason, I wouldn't recommend cutting the stems off now. Another option might be digging them up now, as carefully as you can and with as many of the roots intact as possible, and potting them. You could give them away in the pots. If you have a lot of them, you could try digging and potting a few to see how they take it. In general, they are pretty resilient and shouldn't mind being dug, but if your soil tends towards clay, it can be hard to get all of the roots when you dig. The lilies might hate that, or they might take it in stride. I haven't dug any when they were in bloom so I can't say. I'd definitely stick that one on the ground into a pot, water well, and put it in the shade. Again, I agree with NGraham: it will probably be fine, although it may not bloom next year. Good luck. They're beautiful plants; I, too, am sure you'll find some takers. Just try not to give them to folks who have lily beetle problems. Amanda

Hi Lisa, I'm interested in these: Viburnum tinus 'Spring Bouquet' Lonicera nitida 'Red Tip' Weigela, red (no ID) and if no other takers, 1 of your Leycesteria formosa and a Buddleia globosa What plants are you interested in? Have you tried brugmansias? (require winter storage) Also have a few 'moonflower' daturas cannas that attract hummingbirds, both green and reddish foliage phygelius 'Moonraker' & a couple of others hydrangeas...some pink & some blue lacecap pink double peonies fuchsias, 'Mary' and 'Gartenmeister' (require winter storage ... both loved by hummingbirds) any number of other things!

Hi Diana, I suspect that what you refer to as mutated, was always 'Kwanso'. 'Kwanso' and 'Europa' may be closer than cousins, but definitely related. I doubt it will do much good for you to personally try to stop the natural spread of either daylily. They seem to brighten up the ditches, which is not a bad thing. They are also commonly used for landscaping tough areas. 'Kwanso' seems to tolerate more shade than the rest of the family. When I say invasive, I mean in comparison to other plants. If planted close to something else, without barriers, you will soon only have the daylilies. They are very aggressive spreaders. H. fulva 'Europa' was introduced to the US via Europe, hence the name. If someone in France would pay $5 a stem, I'm sure there would be lots of people willing to supply them. Put my name on the list please. All the daylilies you have planted by the fence may be there in the next epoch, not just the next generation. The ditch lilies and 'Kwanso' varieties historically date back thousands of years. The amazing thing is that they reproduce vegetatively, not sexually. So the ones you planted by the fence are clones of plants that have been around a very long time. Ed

"As others have stated, your top picture is a true lily (tigridium) from a bulb and the stem has leaves growing on it, with bulblets at the leaf axis. Also note the recurved petal and spots. I have a double one. Plant those bulblets and they will bloom in about 2 years." Yes, that is pretty clear now. I don't know all that much about lilies, have never attempted to grow any before. "the second picture could be the daylily Flore pleno, flower lookes like it is stacked, probably with green leaves? Daylilies (hemerocallis) have their leaves growing from the ground from rhyzomes. There is also a variegated leaf Kwanso, with the same double flower, but its petals have a very waddy center, like a peony. Their clumps are very spreading-- not tight, neat clumps like Stella deOro." The leaves on this one grow what I describe as fountain-like, from the ground; it does belong in the daylily forum; I just lumped them both together here. I didn't think it looked like the other sample posted, that one has more petals and is just different. Since everything is such a jungle where it is currently growing, I'm not exactly sure how it would grow in less crowded conditions. I just thought it was pretty and don't usually care for orange lilies or the so-common ditch lily we have all around here. I didn't notice any variegated leaves. "the problem is you CANNOT use it for hybridizing-because it is the species of daylily that has 3 sets of chromozone, and will not interbreed with either the DIP hemerocallis (1 double set of chromozone) or the TET hemerocallis (2 double sets of chromozone). Since the 3 sets of chromozone are not divisible by 2, it usually won't set seed with other daylilies. and remember that when hybridizing double daylilies, the pod parent must be the double. Go to the daylily forum to get more info about them." I don't care that it is no good for hybridizing, but that is interesting information. I've no interest in hybridizing anything at this point, especially that one, just hope they transplant successfully and spread out some but not so much as to become invasive and crowd out other lilies I hope to grow. Hybriding would be fun, but the results are too unpredictable, I'm a little more interested in old roses, and I wouldn't want to throw out baby plants. I want to control the lilies I do plant by purchasing or being given certain particular ones I like. If they happen to cross naturally, well I may or may not be happy about the results of that. Thanks much for the input. It's kind of daunting trying to figure out how I will pull all this together. I can't plant too many at once, too much work. These particular ones look like they won't be too fussy if I don't damage anything while transplanting them, which like I said before, I will wait until fall (cooler for me) even though one poster said I could do it now. If I get to feeling too pressured, can I go and collect some of those bulblets and try them instead of digging the bulbs? When would be the right time for that? It looks like it might be easier but would probably take longer for mature lilies. At this point I have to be realistic because I've bitten off more than I can chew for one growing season. In July and August, I am not going to be able to do much other than basic maintenance and watering because of the heat, although sometimes we get a short break. We have a two-day one now, but it is still pretty hot out. Thank you and everyone else who has been so helpful about these lilies.