Barb, hate to worry you, but rabbits do eat tomatoes and green peppers..I don't know about hot peppers, never grew the hot..I've even see squirrels munching away..LOL..It's hard growing veggies w/all the wildlife around..especially, if like me, you don't use chemicals..Then there are bugs that like veggies, too..I remember tomato worms yrs ago..haven't seen one in yrs, but they were long, semi-curly, light green worms. I don't know if this will work, but I've read if you spray w/cayenne pepper, animals and pests will stay away..Toni

There is no comparison in how fast peppers grow compared to tomatoes. I started all my peppers on feb 8th. I have been giving them specific care (specific lighting, simulated wind, specific soil, specific fertilizer, specific watering, moving them in and out of my house, and in and out from under my balcony. ect) for almost 5 months. On the other hand I planted two tomato plants the first week of June. Just dug a hole in my rocky crappy garden bed soil and stuck them in it (literally did nothing else). The tomatoes already tower over my pepper plants. Peppers are really slow and the ones you have are the fast ones.

The only way to know what the levels of NPK in soils are is with a good reliable soil test and a Google search for soil testing in Uruguay resulted in nothing of use, so it is difficult to know if there is anyplace in Uruguay that does soil testing. Soil pH affects nutrient availability and if too high or too low can keep plants from being able to use the nutrients from soil. Too much raw organic matter in soils can cause Nitrogen to not be available to plants since the soil microbes will use the available N to digest that raw organic matter. Perhaps these simple soil tests might be of some help. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. You do need to know where you are to begin the journey to where you want to be. kimmq is kimmsr

All good advice above. i would repot with some decent potting soil and a bigger container. In fact, the way your grass looks, you are already into or close to the summer growing season. Just pot it up for the summer in a big container. At least 3 gal, but I suggest 5 gal, especially for super hots. Most potting soils with have all the ferts built in that a plant would need at first. Adding some extra Perlite to it would help as well. Then don't water it too much. Let it nearly dry out between waterings.