Hi Brandy The curly spider plant you are talking about sounds like Bonnie Spider Plant. Please let me know if this is what you are looking for. You can look the name up on Google and find a picture. Thanks Brenda

Sorry I can't seem to start the list so here it is. I have: syngonium sanseviera (snake plant) philodendron calathea maranta hedera ivy Christmas and Easter cacti I am very open minded on the exchange (seeds, plants or bulbs)indoor or outdoor. I love rescue plants too. Please e-mail me. Thanks Cynthia79

so, what's the answer? cause i bought my spider plant, already growing, about 3 years ago (give or take) and ive never seen a baby . h**l ive never even had a full bushy plant despite; the south facing window, soaking and drying completely for water (twice a month ill say), i feed liquid fish fertilizer (2-3-0) and replace the potassium with bimonthly banana peels (i prefer organics for plants) . its hanging in a basket .. i changed the soil this summer so i know the tube roots are thriving (actually wasnt prepared for them and scared the begeebys out myself hahaha) . my only thought upon reading above posts ; could i have repotted too soon and didn't let the roots get hugged? cause i assumed like most other plants if you give more space for roots, the more intricate the roots become, the stronger the plant .. is that wrong? helpp !! i want plant babies !

Bottled drinking water isn't the same as distilled water, but it can be close if the filtration system is reverse osmosis (RO). Distilling deionizes water, the important aspect of which is it leaves all dissolved solids behind when water changes phase to a gaseous form, so it is free of any solutes when it recondenses. RO water is very close to distilled. The activated charcoal filters (especially like those sold to treat tap water .... Brita, etc.) do not remove negatively charged ions (most of the chemicals dissolved in your tapwater). Negatively charged ions do not react with charcoal or the ion exchange resins in the filters, so they won't help. FWIW - I don't think we can say, if you allow your water to rest for a day it won't cause any browning of foliage. In fact, I think a good argument can be mounted for the opposite effect to be true. Spider plants react adversely to a high level of solutes in the soil solution, so distilled water (no solutes) would be helpful (snowmelt or water from dehumidifiers would be, too). Allowing your irrigation water to rest in a container for a day, or two or 10, won't help guard against spoiled foliage. Technically, it INCREASES the potential for water to cause burned leaf tips/margins. Only in water purification systems that are throwbacks to the 50s & 60s will you find a volatile form or chlorination. This is because of it's short half life. Newer forms of chlorination use chloramine, which doesn't gas off like the previously used compounds of chlorine. Fluoridation of drinking water has always used a compound that is nonvolatile, so it too, remains in any water left out to rest for any length of time. As mentioned, and since some evaporation will occur while water is resting (especially if it is in a container that has a lot of air exposure at its opening, as with a pan or bucket) The level of chlorine, fluorine, and other solutes becomes more concentrated as water rests and a fraction of its volume evaporates. We just recently rescued a kitten from a litter a crippled feral cat had. It's at my feet now - inside a large, stiff plastic bag (no suffocation risk) - playing saber tooth cave kitten. Toss a bottle cap into the bag & he's good for at least 10 minutes - a remarkable attention span accomplishment - at least for this cat. ..... couldn't resist adding this one: Some info on spider plants from one of my posts on another thread: "While necrotic leaf tips or margins can occur in this plant from over/under-watering, in fact, it's much more common for the actual cause to be a high level of soluble salts in soils. It's also commonly reported that this plant is particularly intolerant or fluoride, but it's still more common for the cause of leaf burn to be a high level of solubles, to which fluoride can be a contributor, than it is to be fluoride itself. WHEN there is a high level of salts in the soil, low humidity can be a contributor, but low humidity alone rarely presents an issue, it must be in combination with a high level of soluble salts in the soil and either over/under-watering. Of course, you cannot correct the already burned tips (they won't 'heal'), but you can take steps to keep it from happening: A) Most important is to use a soil that drains very freely. This allows you to water copiously, flushing the accumulating salts from the soil each time you water. B) Fertilize frequently when the plant is growing well, but at low doses - perhaps 1/4 the recommended strength. This, in combination with the favorable watering habit described above, will keep soluble salts levels low, and keep levels from rising due to the accumulative effect we always see when we are forced to water in sips when plants are in water-retentive soils. C) When watering, using rainwater, snow melt, water from your dehumidifiers, or distilled water also eliminates the soluble salts in your tap water and will go a long way toward eliminating or minimizing leaf burn. D) If you make your own soils and use perlite, be sure the perlite is rinsed thoroughly, which removes most of the fluorides associated with it's use. E) Allowing water to rest overnight doesn't/won't do anything in the way of helping reduce the amount of fluoride (the compounds are not volatile), and it only helps with chlorine in a very few cases, depending on what method of chlorination was used to treat your tap water; but nearly all municipalities are currently using chlorination compounds that are entirely nonvolatile, which means they won't dissipate into the air." Al