Accidentally used hydrated agricultural lime - how to fix this?
solid7
9 years ago
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greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
9 years agojohns.coastal.patio
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Hydrated Lime vs Agricultural Lime
Comments (22)All lime is not the same. And you need to really be careful when adding Dolomite lime (and K-Mag) bc it has too high of a Ca to Mg ratio and you will have way too much Mg if you use it as your only source of Ca. Also, in ag lime "additional chemicals vary depending on the mineral source and may include calcium oxide, magnesium oxide and magnesium carbonate" (Wikipedia links in green). Folks, many of the questions asked here are easily answered with much more reliable information if you do your own research on Google as some of these replies are providing incomplete or inaccurate information. You have the internet and all the information it contains at your fingertips. Put it to use for some research and you will have information that you can be much more confident about and you did it essentially on your own. For those who want the real scoop as to what this stuff really is and how it affects your plants: Ag Lime: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agricultural_lime Hydrated Lime (Calcium Hydroxide): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_hydroxide Dolomite lime: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolomite Gypsum: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gypsum Hope that helps....See MoreDolomite Lime and Hydrated Lime
Comments (18)"How fast", depends on the size of the dolomite particles (smaller = faster), how much moisture is available (more = faster), temperature (warmer = faster), and other incidental and largely insignificant factors. Most text's re container growing that go into detail about grow media commonly suggest making sure the medium is moist, then waiting out a 2-week reaction phase before using it. Since I always have plenty of the 5:1:1 mix on hand, the mix is almost always older than 2 weeks from mix date, but even on the occasions when I made/ used it same day, I didn't see any issues other than a few malformed leaves and some BER on first fruits of tomato and G pepper. Al...See MoreBioEnergetic Agriculture and Gardening
Comments (10)Until today I had not heard oIf Progress Earth. I have not seen any of their products and would tend to not spend my money on them anyway since enerything my soil has needed I have been able to get for free right around here. I am totally organic to the point that I do not purchase even pest control products very often since I find I have little need for them apparently because my soil is in a state that grows plants the bad insects do not find attractive. Yields from my gardens are good, but I have not compared those yeileds with others, however, people have said they like my produce because it has better flavor then that of some others, especially that from the grocers. The fruits start to ripen when they are supposed to. Start your planning by making plans to have a good, reliable soil test done so you know what your soils pH is and the levels of Phosphorus, Potash, Calcium, Magnesium, etc. are and when you can dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. so you know more about your soil and what you might need to do to make that soil good and healthy....See MoreDo I need to add lime if using leaves
Comments (8)If you're incorporating the leaves into the garden soil you would be wise to add nitrogen. I just developed a new vegetable garden and amended the soil heavily with composted horse manure and bedding. I am spreading a two to three inch layer of shredded municipal leaves from last fall and will lightly till them into the top few inches of soil along with about five pounds of alfalfa meal or pellets per 100 square feet. The fluffed up soil and amendments will be well aerated, will warm quickly due to the incorporated air and the dark color, and the microbes can utilize the nitrogen in the alfalfa to build their populations and quickly decompose the leaves. I agree with the postings above that the pH change will be negligible....See Moresolid7
9 years agojohns.coastal.patio
9 years agoOhiofem 6a/5b Southwest Ohio
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9 years agoOhiofem 6a/5b Southwest Ohio
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9 years agoOhiofem 6a/5b Southwest Ohio
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9 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
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9 years agoOhiofem 6a/5b Southwest Ohio
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