Any progress on this issue? Do not add any soil to you property until you have a full drainage plan! ÃÂ Getting an engineer involved is advisable, but expensive, I know, I am one. :-) ÃÂ Consider these issues: 1. Drainage should take water away from the house, as quickly as possible, w/o flooding or causing erosion to you or others. Water near the house can cause many problems: ÃÂ movement near the foundation can move soil, which could cause the house to move. More immediately is the dry rot the moisture will cause to the wood of the house. Mold can form ÃÂ Maintaining any vegetation is a problem. Mosquitos will love it.ÃÂ 2. Adding fill material improperly could make matters worse.ÃÂ 3. Water always flows downhill. So, where is the water going. Try to follow it. The best way is to get the elevations of your property surveyed. I love the ability of a contour map to communicate slope of the ground. And water will follow the slope.ÃÂ 4. Decide on the outlets for water from your property. ÃÂ Drain water to the street, if possible. ÃÂ If not, build dry wells, but check percolation rates carefully. ÃÂ Be very careful about draining water on to neighboring property.ÃÂ 5. Find the sources of the water.ÃÂ 6. ÃÂ Create drain paths from (or near) sources to the outlets: There are several options to do this: (a) ditch, which needs a slope of at least 1%, 3 % is recommended; (b) Underground drain, such as a French Drain, which needs no slope, or a mini-storm drain pipe, which only it needs at least 0.1% slope, or combine French Drain and pipe; (c) pressure pipe,collect the water at a central spot and then pump the water. There are a lot of pages about all of these issues on the Web. This can be a big job.ÃÂ Good luck!

Abiotlegesse, As the OP who lived through this the last couple of years, my first thought to your post was RUN. For us, our problem only got worse until serious and expensive interventions happened. "Grading" and "scraping" our back and front side yard (done by the builder as a solution to my complaint) DIDN'T work. The developer did nothing to correct our problem - there was a lot of talk, but nothing was actually done by him. The builder tried the scraping and grading. But, by the time we got another heavy rain that proved it didn't work, our one year builder warranty was expired. However, I will say that French drains (multiple) did finally work for us. Late last summer, our neighbor to the west of us put in French drains that wrapped all the way around his back yard and emptied into his and my front yard, with our permission (he did this because his backyard was starting to flood so badly that it was coming into his house). Since a good deal of our water flows downhill from his house (and the houses west of him) his French drains helped the flooding on the west side of our backyard a bit. But, his French drains could't help the water that also was flowing from the houses behind us (south of us) into our backyard. Late this spring, my husband installed French drains along the middle and east side of our back fence line and down the east side of our backyard up to the front yard all the way to street. He also hooked into our western neighbor's French drain that was emptying into the west side of our front yard and he extended that out to empty into the street as well. Since then, we've had two very heavy (days long) stints of rain and I'm happy to say that our flooding problem is gone. We still have some minor puddling issues on the west side of our yard behind our shed (where we didn't install a French drain). But, we no longer have a river flowing through our backyard. And, even better, we no longer have the resulting lake sitting our backyard that then stays for several days to weeks before finally evaporating. I can't say whether or not they would be able to bring legal action against you if you backed out at this time. However, I will say that if you move forward with buying the house, before closing, you should try very hard to get the drainage issue documented in writing, detailing what the developer and/or builder has done so far to correct the issue, the fact that the issue is still not completely corrected, and that the developer and/or the builder will take further actions to ensure the issue is corrected to your satisfaction. Buying the house without some sort of written agreement about the specific existing issue will only make it that much harder for you to get them to correct later. For me, it was clear that we would need to take our developer to court if we wanted him to pay to correct our drainage issues. After a lot of debate and thought, we decided to spend our money on just fixing the problem ourselves versus legal fees that might get the developer to pay to fix our problem. We've certainly learned quite a bit about home buying the hard way with this experience (and it wasn't our first house buying experience). On the bright side, since we don't intend to retire here, we can use what we've learned to hopefully make the next buying experience much better.

There are several water-permeable patio options you could look at instead of the pavers. One option is to go with a block with either planting or gravel in the void - here's an example. You can also put down the pavers, but leave a gap for either pebbles or stoppable plants, like this one: Or you could switch from a paver extension to compacted gravel, like this: Any of these options would allow you to keep your grades pretty much as-is and not disrupt your existing drainage, which seems to work for you. The other option is to add a trough drain between the existing concrete and the new pavers. Since you don't have anywhere to direct a drain right now, you'd probably need to add a drywall at one end so you can capture any runoff and allow it to seep into the soil slowly. You might even be able to direct it along to provide additional soil moisture under your raised beds, which will help insure healthy, deep-rooted plants. Here's one example where someone has done that: Your idea for drainage would probably work, but an 8" gap between the two paving materials could be a trip hazard. We're having a pathway installed in our backyard and the landscaper highly advised a gap of no more than 4" (3" is ideal). 8" doesn't seem like that much for a healthy teen or adult, but becomes difficult for either young kids or more elderly people.

One of the joists could have a crown in it which is pointing down and that could create a low spot, do what millworkman said that should solve your problem.