I agree with James. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is an excellent choice for figs. If, by chance, you feel you are getting too much N, simply reduce the dosage and include a little ProTeKt 0-0-3 in the fertilizer solution. Consider that it does little good, and depending on what you are using for fertilizer - might do considerable harm, if you fertilize when soil temperatures are below 55(13)*. The plant may not be growing, and ammonium toxicity from fertilizers deriving their N from either organic sources (various 'meals' - blood, cottonseed, alfalfa .....) or urea (most soluble fertilizers like MG, Peter's, Schultz, others) is a very common problem, even though it almost always goes undiagnosed. If you do apply early fertilizers, use a fertilizer that derives more than 50% of its N from nitrate sources or simply withhold until temperatures are more conducive to growth. I would also wait until your tree has flushed and until roots have started to colonize the container before fertilizing after a repot. One additional note about the Foliage-Pro fertilizer - it derives about 60% of its N from nitrate sources, which means it is less acidic (a + for figs in most cases) and you needn't be so concerned about using it when temperatures are cool. Blood meal is very hot and can burn easily. Ammonium toxicity is a very real problem when using it - and NEVER use it when soils are cold. It has a considerable tendency to carry over in media when temps are cool, warm, or when soil micro-organism populations are low for any reason, which is very common in containers. You'd be much better off to stick to a reliable soluble fertilizer for your N source because you are more likely to create problems when you start adding amendments aimed at supplying singular elements than you are to solve them. Al

Seems you're suffering from information overload. "I was naive enough to think that I could just dig in the soil and plant the seedlings I started or bought at the farmer's market, but a few Google searches have caused me to second-guess my lack of planning." How big of a plot do you want? What do you want it to look like? Do you want individual beds? What kind of soil do you have? Is the site poorly draining and/or low-lying? Assuming the soil drains okay, if you want an in ground garden then go ahead and dig out the grass/weeds, break up the soil, amend with compost and plant. With a new garden you will probably have to fertilize until the compost and beneficial microbes start to work. It's ultimately up to you whether you choose to do an in ground garden, raised beds, lasagna gardening, till, no-till, keyhole garden, potager garden, or whatever. "Our yard is home to lots of dandelions which I have read means I have alkaline soil." Don't read into that. Dandelions are dandelions. They grow anywhere. Only real way to know if your soil is alkaline is to get a professional soil test done. They will also tell you what your soil needs as far as nutrients. Rodney Edit: gardengal's comment wasn't there as I was typing. :)

Jef, As a fellow Amazon addict, I feel your pain. The answer is: "not really." There is, but you'll pay out the nose. Pine bark fines are going on Amazon for $11/quart. Offline, I get that at my local chain nursery here in Los Angeles for $3.99/1.5 cubic feet. So that's almost 1/3x the price for 44x more product. Interestingly enough, this product actually looks rather similar in composition to a 5-1-1-1 mix (it has Turface), but again is overpriced: http://www.amazon.com/Eves-Special-Canadian-Perlite-Turface/dp/B00VAQ3RNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435781535&sr=8-1&keywords=bonsai+soil+bark. You're anti-mixing (and frankly, I was too) but if you want a quick draining soil, you're going to have to end up amending any bagged product regardless. That Eve's mix product looks surprisingly good, though if I were you, I'd pick up some potting mix from whichever nursery is nearest you in NYC, along with some fine-grade orchid bark (any nursery will have this in stock) and perlite.

I think the instruction is for new rose growers because of their inexperienced a little bit of fertilizer from their point of view can be too much for the young roots. Most potting soils have slow released fertilizer that help feed the plant for about 6 months and it’s generally ok for potting roses. I use miracle grow moisture control potting mix for bare root and small own root roses without any problem. Just remember because the potting soil already has the slow release fertilizer in it, don’t add any more granulated fertilizer. Helen