I'm not sure about iris-hosta combo, but daffs-hosta is a classic combo and works well, especially if you combine early daffs with late emerging hostas.
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The same combo two weeks later:
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All other companion plants should works with a bulbs, except, probably astilbe, which prefer to be on a moist side during the summer while most of the bulbs rather be on a dry side.
Regarding planting bulbs around pieris and rhodo, make sure you don't plant bulbs close to their base, they don't like cultivation around root zone.
Last thing, spanish bluebells are late bloomers (mid to late May for me) and foliage persist well into June, so plan accordinghly.
Good luck and enjoy.
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George, I just have to ask.......do any weeds dare grow in your garden? With all the wonderful photos of your spectacular garden you post in all the various forums, I've yet to see anything that looked remotely like a weed. Your gardens are meticulous!! You must spend hours keeping them so well-groomed.

Hi, Pam!
"..do any weeds dare grow in your garden?"
Well, they do. Sometimes. :-)

"You must spend hours keeping them so well-groomed."
Not really.
I found that it will be easier to prevent them start growing than fight them later.
1. All new beds/ freshly dug areas receive generous dose of 'Preen' if bare grounds ment to be left for longer than a day or two.
2. Mulch is all year around, 3-4" of cedar mulch for EVERY new or freshly disturbed areas at any time of the year and 1-2" every year in early spring (late March-early April the latest). Though cedar mulch cost almost twice as much as hardwood one, it doesn't decomposes as fast and by the end of the season I still have at least 1-2" thick layer of it in all beds. If you also consider the fact that cost/time of spreading of good mulch vs the cheap one is the same, you may figure out that in a long run, difference in cost is not that significant. My garden takes about 17-18 yards every year if no major area had been started, but I always order 20 yards and keep the leftover in pile just in case I'd move plants or plant something new. By the end of the season it all gone somehow.:-)
Because of such treatment, I rarely have a self-seeded 'bonus' garden plants, but I don't have a weeds either. I could live with such trade-off.
3. 'Wild' areas that immediately adjacent to the property might be threated by 'Roundup' or equivalent few times a year and I never refuse myself a pleasure of ocassional pulling/digging of the most stubborn offenders.
My major enemies in a garden are Norway maples and wild onions. Unfortunately, this is an ongoing battle, but nothing I could do about.

" Your gardens are meticulous!!"
Thanks for the kind words, but you have to see my garage in a summer...LOL.

ego45, wow! Fantastic garden pics, and I agree, your garden looks meticulous. I never thought of combining daffs and hosta, but I see what you mean how they combine well with timing. But don't daffs need sun and hostas need shade? I'm new to the bulb forum, though I'm a regular on others. Now that the weather is bad I'm cruising through a few other forums.

Since you are obviously an expert in mulch (20 yards???!!!) I wanted to ask, doesn't your mulch just keep accumulating, building up your soil level over the years, burying your plants? Thanks

" But don't daffs need sun and hostas need shade? "

Yes, daffs would need sun before and after the bloom and they got it in March-April when trees are not fully leafout.
Yes, hostas would need some shade and they also got it the whole summer after daffs foliage is long time gone.

"...doesn't your mulch just keep accumulating, building up your soil level over the years, burying your plants?"

No, cedar mulch decomposes at about 2" per year rate, therefore by adding 1-2" per season I always keep more or less constant soil level. With a cedar mulch you might have another issue, so-called matting, which forces me sometimes to till it in a certain areas, but for the 'non-weed' garden it's a very beneficial quality. If you have a lot of squirrels and/or chipmunks in your garden, matting will be not an issue for you. Critters will thoroughly till mulch for you twice a year, in a spring and in a fall.

Ahhh....Preen and copious mulching would certainly do the trick!

My biggest problem is A) having enough time in any single attempt to thoroughly clean all weeds from the bed (can usually only get part done - too many demands on my time) and B) having to wait to mulch until the entire area is finished. And while I'll admit to using Preen on my paver walkways, I avoid it on my beds - just a personal preference to keep chemicals out. And I also prefer to mulch with compost, which is a pretty fertile bed for any weed seed that might blow in. And a great many do :-))

You do a great job, George. Your garden photos are stunning. And in addition to the very well-kept appearance, another thing I admire very much about your gardens is the very thoughtful and careful spacing of the plants - nothing looks overly crowded yet it all looks very full and lush. I am envious of your talent and the time you have to exercise it.

Thanks, George, for the advice and the great photos. Hopefully, I'll have a few shots to share next year!

Here's a small mulch tip, for those who buy by the bag, not by the mountain;-) At the Lowe's near me, they seem to rip a lot of the bags with their forklift or whatever, and they need to rebag them. (I'm talking about small rips, not the kind that empty everything, and about big, plain, see-through bags.) They then charge half-price or less for these. You'd think they'd catch on and take better care, but it's just one of those things. Anyway, I stopped in a good few times last summer, and could always find at least a few bags at a time at half price. Next year, I hope to phase in better mulch -- and I hope they keep ripping those bags. I would rather support a nursery than a big-box store, but I don't have any nurseries near me.

But getting back to bulbs...

Hopefully, the daffs will do to the rock iris what the hostas do to the daffs. Ditto for the ferns with the bluebells. Anyone have any thoughts on my other bulbs:

-Starflowers (Ipheion)
-Triteleia
-Oxalis adenophylla
-hardy cyclamen

Cyclamen do not want competition. Mine are planted beneath shrubs, near hellebores. They want great drainage or will rot. Slopes are great , especially slopes facing south. Consider sheltered spots which won't be battered by winter winds.

Here are a few plantings in local gardens.

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Ipheion Wisley Blue, Anemone Blanda White Splendour, and Fritilaria Meleagris in the hosta bed with one Tradescantia Sweet Kate. If you look closely you can just see the hosta emerging. Some of the hostas are small ones, but most are 3 ft circles or bigger now, but there is lots of room for minor bulbs all around them.

The anemones at the back left are past their prime a bit and the Ipheions, front right & around Sweet Kate, are getting close to peak. The tall bluish foliage at the front of the bed among the emerging daylily foliage is Iris reticulata foliage after bloom. This foliage elongation is something to keep in mind when siting IR. BTW, there are miniature daffodils just starting to open at the back, along the patio edge, behind the frits.
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Closeup of ipheion and Sweet Kate - sort of a perfect duo!

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ego45 - thanks for your clear explanation.

The dwarf Irises - I gracilipes and the other 'woodlanders' would probably be quite happy in the woodland environment I'm picturing when I read your plant combination. I suspect that I reticulata, and 'Sindpers' and co. would be happier with a drier situation over the summer.

Ipheions, IME, need to be Confined. Closely. They have rule the garden tendencies and are a painstaking affair to bring back from disorder. (This may just be a zone problem. The ones in the pictures looked very mannerly!)

Bluebells are similar and could be happily planted with the company of Aquilegia vulgaris. The Aquilegia foliage will hide the collapse of the bluebell leaves, hopefully.

As the pictures describe - the Cyclamen seem to do very well when they have plenty of air and dappled light rather than the steamy closeness of rampant Hostas. When they can settle in for years without being moved their annual display gets better and better - and the seedlings get a chance to grow on uninterrupted. Heuchera could be a useful companion - particularly the ones with the purply and silver tones in the leaves.

Dwarf Aquilegia, or A canadensis, rather than the big
A vulgaris,could be nice with the Cyclamen, too.