1/2 inch Chicken Wire Tulip Bulb Cages
fanelda
14 years ago
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
14 years agopeonyman
14 years agoRelated Discussions
planting tulip and muscari bulbs
Comments (1)Squirrels are a pain, aren't they? Bulb roots should not have problem going through chicken wire. Muscaris are not planted as deep as Tulips. I don't think you'll have to worry about their roots going so deep anyway. I wonder about the necessity of lining the ditch with chicken wire, though. Unless you have moles or voles, placing chicken wire over the bulbs should be sufficient to prevent the tree rats from getting to your bulbs. That's what I do when I plant new bulbs in the garden. Another issue to consider is that with chicken wire under the bulbs, one day when you may want to dig up the bulbs, it will not be fun digging into the checken wire, will it? Early this spring, squirrel problem was so bad that even Colchicum shoots were bitten off. I sprinkled blood meal around the shoots. It seemed to deter both rabbits and squirrels....See MoreJust Planted Tulip Bulbs in Z7 - What now?
Comments (7)If it were me: I'd remove the weed cloth now. I've not seen it do anything good for the development of a good soil structure in clay. Gravel: I'd be thinking a mix of sizes rather than a single screen size. My preference would be for 2,5,7mm which can be useful when it gets dug through the soil/clay. As I'm using it as a mulch I wouldn't put it on any thicker than 2". Less could be better.(Sand is a no-no. It's like uncreamed butter and sugar in an angel cake...). As I'm planting into clay, and if I didn't have too many bulbs, I'd dig out circular shapes for my patches of colour to the depth for my zone and a little extra. Into the extra I'd put a layer of about an inch of the 2mm grit so the roots can get started into a better-drained area. If I could, I'd get a grit that stood out in colour from my soil. Later, when I come to lift the bulbs, I'd be able to see when I've 'hit bedrock' and I'd know to move carefully so I didn't harm my bulbs. Because I'm wanting to improve my soil over time, I'd add some agricultural lime - about an ounce to the square yard. Once I'd covered my bulbs I'd ensure that I stayed off that ground to prevent it from compacting. That's particularly important over times in the year when it's wet. The sad-looking bulbs: I'd plant them up in containers and I'd plant them quite shallowly. Barely covered, and in a free-draining mix - even 50:50 small grit and potting mix with no peat. I wouldn't want the water to stay close to them and I'd want whatever roots they can produce to have lots of encouragement to forage. (I'd even rescue the ones I tossed and give them a go, too.) Those containers I'd put where they get not much more than a couple of degrees of frost, moderate water, and good sunlight. A bit later on, when I see green noses above the soil/gravel (yes they DO come up through gravel) I'd feed them at the prescribed amount with either some potato or tomato food - powdered so it slowly breaks down, and lightly stir it in to the surface of the soil/gravel. Just once. With the damaged bulbs - some might flower. Some will die. Some might only put up leaves and split into smaller bulbs. Which is fine, because I can grow on those daughter bulbs for a year or two to give me 'free bulbs'. Any with streaky leaves I'd dig up and burn because they might have a virus and I'd rather be safe than sorry. All it needs is one travelling aphid and it could spread. No thanks. And next year, when the bulbs are finished for the year, I'd be putting my grass clippings onto the garden strip with a light sprinkling of lime, followed by as many autumn leaves as I could scrounge. Welcome mats for the earthworms. As an aside - if you do use the smaller grit sizes you can plant into it. The small 'johnny-jump-up' pansies, florists' anemones, verbascum, dianthus-pinks, linaria, eschscholzia, and a good range of other annuals will grow there - especially if you can provide some water over the summer. They may not be huge/lush but they will be sturdy and colourful. When it comes to weeding over the gravel (yes you DO have to weed...:-( ) use a two-tine hand fork or weed hook rather than anything conventional. If you use a knife, that will work, too. Forget spades - and rotary tillers. They're often not good for the health of the soil structure on clay....See Morechicken wire to prevent gopher for school garden
Comments (11)I just did this with an Iris bed 30' long and 5' wide. I had my "muscle" dig out all the soil to 10 " down; lay down small-hole chicken wire pinned in place with landscaping pins and turned up the sides and leave a collar of wire 6" high above the ground so it was like a tray ; and, put back all soil. Then I planted the Iris tubers. So far the Gophers have been deterred.... it seems they are stopped by the wire collar. You can also make wire baskets for each plant, just make sure you leave enough wire above the ground for the collar. This is what I've done for most of my plants. Also, gophers never bother any of the Salvias or herbs, so I don't bother to cage those plants....See MoreCages to protect bulbs?
Comments (3)After pocket gophers cleaned a bed of ranunculus, Dutch iris and dahlias I bought close weave wire (1/2 inch ?) and tried to fashion baskets. What an unwieldy job. It did protect the susceptible bulbs (narcissus were never bothered so left uncaged). A lot of bulbs went in pots, some of which were buried. A roaming cat finally got that gopher. Now another has shown up and I've realized the tunnels are only down about 6 inches. Instead of trying to bend a basket I've buried a circle of the barrier wire around the bulbs. About 8 inches. I leave a little showing so I don't dig there. Cutting the wire weave is tedious. The spaces on light bulb cages I've seen are too large for my critters....See Morepippi21
12 years agopippi21
12 years agoNancy
12 years agocalistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
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10 years agobill_ri_z6b
10 years agoBud222
10 years agoBud222
10 years agocalistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
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10 years agokatob Z6ish, NE Pa
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