I'll bet the other one has a lower pH. 8.0 is pretty typical in my area but consistent use of compost has lowered it to 7.0. Blood meal would be a quick fix but you need to add a slow release nitrogen source too. Once you get the pH down the other numbers will work their way out. All our calcium and high pH locks up the nutrients real bad.

Oh and your water is probably around 8 or 8.5 too so you don't get to slack off putting in the organics at anytime. It ain't all bad.....cabbage likes it a little high on the pH. Forget the azaleas unless you just like beating your head against a wall.

yeah, i had a similar problem in a raised bed i backfilled with purchased compost. Veggies sprouted great but then turned yellow and stunted. Finally ran soil test that came back with a pH of 8.0. They recommended ammonium sulfate (21.0.0) at a rate of 833#/acre (.02#/SF)split into 2-3 applications). i've been adding large volumes of composted horse manure along with blood meal and bone meal (Phosphorus was low also) with good results.

It is rather surprising to me that they even tested for Nitrogen. Most pro soil test labs no longer do since it is too unstable to test accurately. Reports show that they can get drastically different readings depending on the air and/or soil temps when the sample was collected, soil moisture levels, soil pH, etc.

Plus N leaches out of the soil quite readily. So anymore they just usually just include a blanket recommendation for you to add X amount of N per square foot prior to planting.

I'd too would bet on it being a pH problem rendering all the nutrients unavailable to the plants. But you might want to post over on the Soil Forum here as many there have a great deal of experience working with soil test results.

Dave

Trying to lower the pH of soil is a long term adventure with little or no permeant results. The addition of ammonium sulfate does two things: 1- provide N from the ammonium and 2- slightly lowers the pH from the sulfur. You will have to add ammonium sulfate at least twice a season. The addition of organic material improves water holding capacity of the soil but does little to lower it's pH.

As one who has done a great deal of vegetable crop nutrition research for a land grant university, I disagree with digdirt's comments about N analysis. I you want accurate, useful results, first and foremost you must take the sample properly. Second it must be handled properly and third, the results must be interpreted properly. Not doing the first 2 can easily lead to useless readings. To me, by far the most meaningful N soil analysis is TKN or total kjeldahl nitrogen. It accounts for all nitrogen sources except nitrate-n which is a small component of the soil N present at any time in a soil profile. Given together, A soil analysis for TKN + Nitrate-N will give the total amount of nitrogen in the sample. I will not speak to the interpretation of results and subsequent recommendations except to say there are those based on sound science and there are those that are not.

I agree with digdirt that there are way too many "blanket recommendations" issued and find it at least unfortunate if not environmentally irresponsible. Anyway that's my 2-cents worth.

Finally got a chance to look at sean carolan's soil test result. Their recommendation of adding 1.4 lb N/1000 sq. ft. amounts to 61 lb/A, pretty conservative unless the soil already has alot in it.

What's depleting all my nitrogen? Irrigation (leaching) is a very effective way to deplete it. Cold soil can appear to as the process that converts organic matter to ammonium and nitrate in the soil is slower than when soils are warm. If you are a nerd like me, you can get a good understanding of where your N is going at the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Soil nitrogen cycle