(Cheap) Alternatives to Peat Moss
dlangend1120
13 years ago
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dlangend1120
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Coir instead of peat moss in SWC container mix?
Comments (22)JaG!! What's gotten into you? I don't think I've ever seen you like this. I think you need a hug. I'm arranging for a polar beargram to be delivered (he'll be right at home anyway) - that's all there is too it. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll have to show up with one of those goofy hats and a red cape to distract you. Hi, Kirk. About my leaving this part out: "The trouble is that these studies test the fibre without giving it a charge of any nutrition. All of the studies in question also acknowledge that adjustments in nutrients and irrigation levels would make a difference." Upthread, I said "Just sayin' it don't make it so." I think that kind of applies to these two statements. I cannot imagine anyone doing a grow test on a soil with a particular component (coir) w/o adding appropriate nutrients & then comparing it to a soil that contained proper nutrition. The second half of the statement (All of the studies in question also acknowledge that adjustments in nutrients and irrigation levels would make a difference). Leaves me to wonder WHAT studies were questioned, and WHO acknowledged the horrible disparity? Didn't happen - it's fluff. ... and the part that says "adjustments in nutrients and irrigation levels would make a difference." should have had a "DUH" alert posted in front of it. See why I didn't feel like I was deceiving anyone by leaving out "crucial testimony? The real reason you're under so much pressure is simply because of the 'absolute' statement you made. When you make them, it makes people just want so badly to challenge them. ;o) You kept your cool under pressure, even if you still haven't proven a case (IMO). That part aside, it's much easier to live with "I did go a little overboard saying it can't be beat but it is very easy to use and gets growth rates comparable to other forms of hydro." than the original statement. That's cool - you should be able to express an opinion anytime you feel like it. It doesn't mean you won't hear alternate opinions, but at least you won't get pounced on. ;o) BTW - I was never angry with you - just full of challenge & curiosity to see if you'd hang or give up & turn poopy. You did fine, as far as I'm concerned - I hope there's no hard feelings. Take care. ;o) Al...See MoreUsing Peat Moss to amend soil?
Comments (46)I second Wayne's hands-on experience. I have rock-hard alkaline clay, pH 7.7, high in magnesium. The soil is so hard that it broke my large rototiller machine, and a shovel. My husband used a pick-ax to dig holes. 12 years ago I planted 6 rhodo. and azaleas. I brought down my pH by mixing 1/2 peatmoss. I never water those acid-loving plants, they are still alive. This year I used acid-fertilizer FOR THE FIRST TIME to increase the blooms and foliage - they have tons of buds now. I have a large rose garden with 42+ roses. Since roses are fussy, I move them around or dig them up to gargage them in my zone 5a winter. I made many holes: 1) pine mulch mixed with clay gave the fluffiest soil and best root-growth, thus most blooms. Pine bark is dry at first, but once decomposed, it retains water. A rosarian faxed me the ARS paper on field experiment on a large scale that documented dryness of pine bark at first, but once decomposed, it retains water. That's why the large Ball professional potting soil has 45% COMPOSTED fine pine mulch. Another hole with 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 pine park, 1/3 native clay .... Six months later I dug the rose up: the soil is fluffy, but rooth growth is less. Another hole with 1/3 coarse sand, 1/3 pine park, 1/3 clay, then topped with alfalfa meal. Six months later I dug up, and found tons of earthworms. Several holes with 1/2 peat moss and 1/2 clay. I dug the rose up: Root growth is restrained, soil is still compact. Another hole with 1/3 grass clipping, 1/4 peatmoss, 1/4 alfalfa meal, and native clay. This glued up badly, soil became more compact. The grass clipping is innocent, the culprit is the fine particles of peatmoss and alfalfa meal which binded with the high positive charge of magnesium in my clay soil. Alfalfa meal is high in calcium, and calcium precipitates in alkaline clay, making phosphorus unavailable for blooms. Why I do such experiments? I majored in chemistry for 2 years before getting my B.S. in Computer Science. It's fun to use my chemistry background to experiment in the garden. I second everything Wayne wrote. He's right, experience and ACTUAL TESTING over many months is the best teacher....See MoreCoco Peat, Coco Coir, Peat Moss...where?
Comments (19)I also have found coco coir to be excellent for seed germination. Coir is going to be superior peat for this for the same reason a paper towel is. It actually allows the seed to stay consistently moist. Peat dries out faster and doesn't have a reliable pH. You also don't have to worry about a bunch of sticks with coco. No nutes necessary for germination. The seed has its own food. Problem is, you have to transplant pretty soon or use liquid fertilizer if you use a medium without nutrients. I make soil blocks with a coco coir/vermicast/sifted compost mix so I don't have to worry about a quick transplant. Coco also won't mold or grow moss and algae on it like peat moss does. At least not until you put nutrients on it. It's just you adding the nutes instead of a pump. There is a very good reason peat isn't used for hydroponics but coco is. Coco is more stable, nearly all brands desalinate as they know the hydro industry is their number 1 customer - so normally no worries concerning salt, and it it's great for aeration because it doesn't break down as fast as peat moss. In fact, I sterilize, desalinate, and reuse the coco for my hydro plants. It lasts at least 3 growing cycles of tomatoes and many more for lettuce (shorter cycles is why). For anyone thinking, "But I don't do hydro," keep in mind that potted plants that require liquid fertilizer is hydro. It's just you adding the nutes instead of a pump. I hold no illusion that coco is more environmentally friendly. I did, because I fell for the media hype. But the reality is otherwise and I now definitely recognize this....See MoreWhat is the difference between peat and spaghnum peat moss?
Comments (8)There are different types of peat depending on whether the peat formed from grasses, mosses, or woody material. The consistency varies a lot too: from a jumble of still recognizable fibers and woody particles to completely decomposed muck. I live in the midst of forested "bogs" (swamps) in a network of extinct glacial lakebeds and pitted outwash drainage valleys where today there is a creek, a river, seeps, springs, and nice little bakwaawong on my property. Yesterday I was out digging in the peat making a channel. I'm always hoping to dig up mastadon bones. My peat has a wide range of types and consistencies depending on depth and where I dig. In places there are trees and shrubs growing. In other places my bog has sphagnum moss growing on the surface. I consider sphagnum moss to be that living green layer and the brown moss under it. The peat is deeper and looks more like dirt or mud. The moss you can tear out by hand. The peat usually need to be dug....See Moredenninmi
13 years agodlangend1120
13 years agotkhooper
13 years agolinnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
13 years agodenninmi
13 years agodlangend1120
13 years agojjstatz
9 years ago
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