It looks like it needs plants!!!!

It looks really good, like the end product I might come up with. Actually, it looks a LOT like this ......

{{gwi:4806}}

..... don't you think?

Though I'm pretty certain you'll do very well with it, I'm still excited to hear (from you) how you make out with it. Keep us posted, please.

Al

The likeness is startling!
excellent pic!

Josh

Lol - If you want to know the real truth, Josh, the soil Nik made looks better than mine! She was more careful than I about screening.

Al

Fantastic work!

MIke

Ha! Is your bark a little big, Al? ;)

Josh

Thanks, what a compliment from the master (I'm not worthy!!!)! It only took me 3 days to screen enough stuff to fill one of my four 40 gallon planters...maybe I'll be less careful for the next 3 batches or the other plants may die waiting for their planters to be ready ;-).

Questions -
1) Now what? Do I soak the roots of the plant/s to remove all soil and then just stick it/them in the pot?

2) Should I wet the mix first, or just after I put the plant/s in?

3) I left about 5-6 inches in the pot with the thought that it would help with shade and allow me to just place a "spiller" and a "filler" next to my "thriller" on top of the mix still in their own small pots to help shade the star plant (my poor clematis), and avoid any root competition - any problem with that? I can put them in mesh baggies so they don't add any dirt to the mix.

4) When do I need to start fertilizing and what would be the best for clematis (they like more alkaline than acid I believe)

5) how often should I water/ how will I know when its time (other than wilting plants) and do I need to worry about over watering

I will certainly keep you posted...I am almost giddy about transplanting my first baby tomorrow!
Thanks, Nik

1) If the plant has leaves, you shouldn't bare-root it. Just tease the roots apart a little, being careful not to let them dry out - and pot it. If it doesn't have leaves, go ahead and remove the soil before you plant.

2) It's helpful if the soil is a little damp when you make it. Beyond that, it doesn't matter much if it's damp or dry, but you don't want it wet. It's too hard to work with.

3) No problem I can see.

4) Wait about 2-3 weeks before you fertilize. Then use something like FP 9-3-6 or either of the 3:1:2 MGs, like 24-8-16 or 12-4-8. Let me know if you need that translated. By the looks of the soil you made though, you're pretty well-schooled. ;o)

5) I can't tell you how often to water, Nik. You'll have to figure it out for yourself. It will partially depend on how deep the roots of your plant go - how large the root mass is. If it goes deep into the container, you'll need to water much less often than if your plants are small & the roots only go down a couple of inches. After the plant is well established, you might want to occasionally withhold water until you see some sign of wilting - just to get a handle on how long the plants CAN go between waterings. You CAN over-water, but you have to work at it. Use a dowel pushed deep into the soil. If it's wet/cool, withhold water until it comes out dry.

Al

It has been 2.5 weeks and I am getting ready to fertilize, I couldn't find Foliage Pro, but the guy at the grain store sold me "Lady Bug Brand - Johns Recipe" Foliar Feed. The bottle says "all in one fertilizer" but nothing specific about micro-nutrients.
Anyone know about this stuff? Should I keep looking for Dyna Pro or is this really a complete fertilizer?

Also, I just realized that the pelletized gypsum I have been using in my gritty mix says "rapid release" is that a problem?

Thanks!

You could use gypsum and then epsom salts at each watering..

Or you could get a good fertilizer in the rations Al suggests, then purchase Cal-Mag at any hydroponics store..It is the Ca and the Mag that are missing from most fertilizers that plants need..;-)

Thanks Mike, I already added the gypsum when I made the mix...I was planning on fertilizing every 2 weeks but I would rather just use one product (easier to keep up with). Are you saying that just the gypsum and Epsom salts are sufficient with no other fertilizer?

The ingredients of this lady bug stuff:
Emulsified and Hydrolyzed fish emulsion, seaweed extract, cane molasses, humic acid, magnesium sulfate, ferrous sulfate, zinc sulfate. Looks like no calcium.

I'm not sure we have any hydroponics stores around here, looks like another treasure hunt!

I actually bought this Lady bug stuff to use on the grass plugs I just put in but was hoping it would be suitable for my containers too.

If you're results oriented and not limited by an 'organic' ideology, I'm pretty certain that you'll be much happier with a soluble fertilizer like Miracle Gro 24-8-16 or 12-4-8 if you don't have the Foliage pro 9-3-6 available, but it's your call. I've found that delivery of nutrients from organic sources in container culture is pretty unreliable because of the wide fluctuation of micro-organism populations in the soil, which are required to break the organic molecules down into elemental form before plants can use the nutrients.

Al

Thanks Al, no I'm not limited...I am a "fair weather organic gardener" ;-).

So do the MG 12-48 or 24-8-16 both have complete nutrients or would I need to use anything else with it?

May I assume there is no problem with the rapid release gypsum I used, since no one has commented?

Thanks, BTW my Clematis seems happy in its new gritty home, it is looking great!
Nik

Hi, Nik - You should be ok w/o adding a micro-nutrient supplement, but remember you need to include the Epsom salts when you fertilize.

I forgot to comment on the gypsum - it's fine - no problem.

I'm so glad your Clematis is faring well!

Wishing you continued success!

Al

Ummm so is that 1 teaspoon of epsom salts per gallon of water w/ fertilizer?

I use 1/4 - 1/2 tsp/gallon of fertilizer solution.

Al

Great, thanks - I appreciate all of your help!