I just wrote 2 other comments that disappeared so I am afraid to seem repetitive in case they somehow come back. I would like to share what I do. I don't believe that anyone really "covers" the foliage completely, but other plants do step up and take over effectively pushing the foliage into the background. My fence garden with daffodils Later with nepeta blooming - you can see some of the daffodil foliage if you really search for it - but do you care? My main front flower bed - these are the early bloomers, there would be more later: Below taken the same day as the nepeta picture- a lot of the foliage is the alliums blooming- you barely notice the daffodils and the sidewalk is to your left - everything is blocked from the road by bigger perennials in front.

I am looking for parrot tulips or ice cream tulips also looking for bright colored lilies, asiatic lilies, anything different in bulbs... For postage... Please

I have given up on them after having them rot at every attempt (3 tries I think), that too in containers. Unless you have very well draining soil and you planted it at an elevated level to ensure adequate drainage, it will likely fail to survive soggy winter weather.

It would actually be the ground temperature at the depth of the bulb. https://www.greencastonline.com/tools/soil-temperature The current soil temperature in San Francisco is 54 degrees (at the surface layer, down to about 10cm). The five day average is 54.4°. Looking back, it's been a warm year by a couple of degrees on average, but temperatures have been in the sub-55 degree range since before December first. It seems a bit marginal, but...if we apply the rules exactly as written, it says the bulbs have had at least nine weeks so far at appropriate temperatures, so there's certainly every reason to hope. As long as they didn't rot. Next year, I might be inclined to refrigerate (not freeze) the bulbs before planting, and plant late enough in November that they won't sprout until your "spring" arrives (to me, your spring is December, so...) If rotting is a problem, just keep them dry, refrigerate for ten weeks, then plant them in spring and let them bloom at that point. Then discard and buy new the next year.