If you go to the thread "'new' gardener needs help with rhod/azalea", there are photos on how to deadhead a rhododendron. That is what removing spent flowers is called. On some varieties it makes a difference, on some it doesn't matter at all. On most varieties, it will only make a small difference if any. Most gardeners would like to deadhead but few actually do. If you are getting petal blight, then deadheading is very important. All spent flowers should be destroyed. The best way is to toss them in the trash. Petal blight is a disease that hits some rhododendrons and azaleas that bloom later in the spring. It causes the flower to turn mushy before it naturally wilts. If you look closely it forms unsightly brown spots on the flowers. Attached is an example the early stages of petal blight before the flowers turn mushy. Here is a link that might be useful: How to care for rhododendrons and azaleas.

Cut them off and toss them, you really don't want the energy of the plant trying to produce fertile seeds. The plant will start growing after the flowers come off if they are summer growers. Pansy is a good example of this, you must dead head them to get longer stems, and larger flowers and the plant will have the energy to produce more flowers. There there may be exceptions. (Disclamer) Norma

Em..... I can only imagine the lovely flowers since I have not seen the dwarf varieties myself. You may choose to leave the flower stock if the seeds are desired but I am not certain most seedling will produce true to type. This lily clump multiplies rapidly in nature anyway so why bother with seeds. I would cut the flowering stock close to ground level. Often plants pick up a bust of energy and perform best this way. Ankrara's Hobby Corner

I've been growing orchids for a long time. I grew them in NY in windows and now we live in Florida so they live outside. You should all visit the Orchid Forum for help with your plants. Its on Gardenweb under 'Orchids.' Lots of nice people who can answer your questions and help you be successful. Most Phals bloom once a year from new spikes. If you leave the old spikes they are not as pretty as a new spike as the flowers get smaller and smaller and the old spike crooked. Much better to cut the old spikes off and let the plant grow new leaves over the summer months. Phals will initiate new spikes with temperature drop. In the late summer/fall as the night temps drop it triggers the plant to flower. So, if you grow in the house, you must provide a temp drop of at least 10/15 degrees. Easiest to do if your plant spends the summer outdoors in a sheltered spot. The bud blast is caused by the sudden change of temps or direct sunlight on the buds. Best to start bringing your plants in after they begin spiking and let them develop their buds in a window. This way the plant can adjust to the dry air in the house. They are very easy to grow, you just need to understand that a sudden change in temps and humidity can affect the buds. I always brought my Phals back indoors before the heat was on in the house, usually mid September (in NY). If your Phals are to remain in the house, just provide the night time temperature drop in the Fall. A cooler room where you can crack the window at night would work. Remember, they need that temperature drop to flower. In nature, Phals grow attached to tree trunks, high above the ground. They do not grow in dirt. Their roots have evolved to catch rain water or humidity. Growing in pots is something we do, not the way they grow. Keeping them in pots works if you let their roots have air. They are air-roots, they will rot if kept too wet. Forget ice cubes. These plants grow in tropical rain forests. No ice cubes there. Just water when they are almost dry. Do not keep them wet or they will die. Us your finger to feel the potting mix before watering. Do not water if it feels damp...wait! Best to repot yearly. Use an orchid mix and make sure the pot has drain holes. Remember, these plants do not grow in dirt. They grow attached to tree trunks exposed to the air and rain. Do not overwater and do not let the potting mix stay too wet. You should only fertilize in spring and summer when you see new growth beginning. Phals make their leaves in summer and flower in fall. Feed the leaves for the best flowering. You can give a weak fertilizer in the winter, but only a very weak amount. Feed Spring and summer. Sorry to write so much. These plants are so easy to grow if you remember where they originate. They grow on trees out in the air, not in pots. They can grow well in pots if you remember their roots need air. Truly easy to grow and will flower for 6 months. What plant does that? Each year they grow bigger and bigger and you get more and more flowers. This was a small Phal sitting in a dentist office. I took it back to my house that summer until it bloomed and brought it back to the dentist office. This plant was small and this is only its second year. Don't toss them. Just forget what you've learned about 'dirt plants.' These are 'air plants.' If you give their roots air you can't go wrong. You'll be rewarded. Jane Here is a link that might be useful: American Orchid Society