I so agree with Flora that the second is most probably the horrible invasive Ornithogallum umbelatum, Star of Bethlehem. My property here is infested with it something awful and I spend days and days, for months, (from Feb thru May) each spring digging it out to clear a bit more area that will be free of it. I refuse to ever plant anything again in soil that is infested with the nasty bulbs. Please destroy them and please do not trade them. Below is a pic of my front yard. There are so many clumps of the star of beth, that I can't get grass to grow. The darker spots are clumps of bulbs that are maybe 4"-6" across below the ground And yes, it is advisable to start a new thread rather than adding on to an old one. chemocurl...aka Sue Here is a link that might be useful: More about my Star of Beth rant

Great reply GardenGal. Just about anything written back in the last century suggests fertilizing after the bulb has bloomed. But research at Kansas State University has discovered that once the bulb has flowered, the roots shut down and any fertilizer applied at this time is wasted. Why don't I let them tell you themselves. I hope that I am not breaking any copy write laws... Oh, one last thing, I have wondered if giving them a good foliar feed with Miracle Gro or Fish Emulsion while they are blooming would be useful. I'll shut up now Released: February 18, 2000 Feed Tulips, Daffodils When They Emerge MANHATTAN, Kan. Gardeners often waste fertilizer on spring-flowering bulbs. Traditional gardening lore holds that the time to feed tulips, daffodils and the like is while or after they bloom. Scientists have found, however, that when these plants begin to flower, their roots start to die  which shuts off the route fertilizer needs to reach the bulb. "The roots are most active when the plants foliage first pokes through the ground in spring," said Ward Upham, K-State Research and Extension horticulturist. "If you feed spring-flowering bulbs then, theyÂll make best use of the nutrients that help produce flowers the following year." Tradition also holds that gardeners should leave springÂflowering bulbs foliage in place until it dies naturally. That folk wisdom is exactly on-target, Upham said. Each yearÂs eight weeks of fading foliage is more important than fertilizer for ensuring next yearÂs blooms. "After flowering, however, the plant is transferring energy from its dying foliage to its bulb, not taking nutrients up from the ground," he said. "So, fertilizer applied then really is a total waste." Which early-spring fertilizer to apply depends on the nutrients already in the soil. "An on-site soil test is the only sure way to know. But if youÂve applied a complete fertilizer to the bulbs in the past, chances are your soil wonÂt need phosphorus and potassium," Upham said. "In that case, blood meal is excellent, applied at a rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet or 1 teaspoon per square foot." An "okay" alternative is turf fertilizers, applied at two-thirds pound per 100 square feet. These fertilizers typically list their nutrient content with three-number groupings such as 27-3-3 and 30-3-3. For soils that need phosphorus and potassium, Upham recommended using a complete fertilizer at a rate of 2.5 pounds per 100 square feet or 1 rounded teaspoon per square foot. Complete fertilizers carry near-equal numbers on their labels (e.g., 10-10-10 and 9-9-6). # # # Filler: Spring-flowering bulbs get smaller and weaker year after year unless theyÂre allowed to keep their foliage until it dies. Unfortunately, the dying leaves arenÂt too attractive. So, gardeners often try to make the spent foliage look better by braiding it or folding it into a sheaf with a rubberband or string. "If you donÂt want to watch the leaves die, however, simply interplant your spring-flowering bulbs with a perennial that will be growing up as the bulb foliage dies down," he advised. "Many people find some variety of day lily works well in this kind of situation." -30- K-State Research and Extension is a short name for the Kansas State University Agricultural Experiment Station and Cooperative Extension Service, a program designed to generate and distribute useful knowledge for the well-being of Kansans. Supported by county, state, federal and private funds, the program has county Extension offices, experiment fields, area Extension offices and research centers statewide. Its headquarters is on the K-State campus in Manhattan. Kathleen W. Ward Communications Specialist

Hi Mdkorpi, Lilies need to be at 40 degrees or lower for a few months to vernalize. Being really cold won't hurt lilies, as long as they get there gradually and don't suffer too wide of temperature swings. Depending on when you are moving, the easiest thing would be to plant them now and dig them up when you move. Don't separate the bulbs just toss the whole root ball into the ground. That will make it easier to dig them up in the Spring, (the rootball should be pretty much intact). You can space them properly when you get to NC. If you're afraid your ground will be too frozen to dig up - I'd try making an oversize hole and put a layer of mulch on the bottom and sides - and then plant the rootball and put a layer of mulch on top (and keep an eye out for heaving). If you'd like to store them over the winter, this Fall put your bulbs in just moist peat moss and store in your fridge's veggie drawer. But, leave the veggies out (ripening fruit and veggies can be a problem for the bulbs). While bulbs get frozen in nature without ill effects, its generally not advised to put them in your freezer. If the link doesn't work search the lily forum for "do not put flower bulbs in the freezer". -Helen Here is a link that might be useful: freezing bulbs

Thanks, Mindy!