Help with 1st time Jade trimming
ludachris
13 years ago
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larke
13 years agolarke
13 years agoRelated Discussions
CP soap for the 1st time is it supposed to be?
Comments (3)I have made a blob of grease a few times, instead of soap. It was just a tad too cool when mixed. When it's all blended, it's hard to tell the difference, but only for a short time. When it's soap, it's more like wax and gets hard qickly. It's easy to mix them together at just barely too cool a temp and then it just never makes soap. All you get is white, thick grease. Just heat the whole thing up again, gently, until it's about 105 degrees F, approximately. It can be a bit warmer too. Then, as it cools down, while you are stirring it, when it hits the right temp, it will make into soap. You don't have to have the two ingred the perfect tem, then mix together. They can be warmer than that and will make soap when the whole thing hits the right temp. Sort of like HP soap. You can mix them at any time and raise the temp, cooking it slightly. This will even help to make it cure faster by getting rid of some of the excess water. Just don't scorch it. Keep mixing it until it cools enough to make soap....See MoreIf you're doing one thing at a time, what should be done 1st?
Comments (26)I don't like tiny knobs on big doors...so that bothers me, but the real issue is...if you have one knob it should be lower on the upper doors and higher on the lower doors (did that make sense? heh heh) But frankly, a 3" or more pull would look better, and I'd bet you could use the existing hole on many of those doors and drill one below it for the other hole. You can play with looks in advance and see what works. The green or yellow would look nice with both white and almond :) The green especially would help the almond blend easily. Now that I know they're not white...I'd be careful about painting in white. You'll immediately make the appliances look very bad by painting white on the cabinets surrounding them. Really...it would be a big mistake. For that fridge, you could take a sledge hammer to the back wall and poke that fridge back into the framing area by taking out a few 2x4's (if it's not a support wall). You can build a header around the space and push the fridge back, then maybe some trim and you'll be amazed how much better it looks. The cabinets I just removed from our remodel are the cabinets you have by the way. (VERY CLOSE anyhoo). The previous owner had changed to a corian type countertop and that did help with the look somewhat (but they were still orange oak LOL) and they didn't have any trouble holding up that counter :) I wouldn't put 3cm granite on them (because spending that type of money on counter tops when you need to do other things is silly) but I'd look to some of the prefab granite out there. We're getting a gold colored granite out of asia at $44 sq ft, with finished edges and a 4" backsplash, all installed, $44 sq ft for our new place (rental). I'll be putting that on top of some 1977 cabinets :) and they'll be just fine :)...See More1st Time Composter with One-Years Product
Comments (15)Good news - it isn't toxic or unworkable. Bad news - it's not done. Even though it's been a year. Why did this happen? The bacteria that produce compost need air and carbon to balance the nitrogen and water. Without them you get only bacteria that thrive without oxygen - which don't produce compost. (Picture a pile of cut grass clippings just rotting.) The smell doesn't lie. An anaerobic pile stinks. On the contrary, healthy compost piles smell earthy and sweet. If it's is very hot there might be a trace of ammonia fragrance. On your ingredients list the only carbon heavy (brown) material are the coffee filters and cardboard. For the compost pile to work, you need a balance of both the green and brown - 50/50 by volume is a workable goal. That means every time you dump in some kitchen scraps and coffee grounds, you also add an equal volume of shredded leaves, cardboard, straw or other high-carbon brown material. A Way Forward Basically you are back at square one. What you have is high-nitrogen sludge. This is a great "green" material for composting, or for worm farms. Either way, you will need to combine it with a brown material like straw or wood pellets. Going forward, wood pellets (the unprocessed kind used for wood stoves) are pretty cheap and a handy carbon source if you don't have a natural one available. You can keep them in a sealed garbage container close to the tumbler. Every time you throw in some garbage, toss in some wood pellets as well. That will get you in the ballpark of a workable carbon:nitrogen ratio. If you fill the tumbler up all at once, add the right moisture and turn it every few days, this should be able to take the container through the end of the bacterial (hot) stage in about 8 weeks. After that, you can empty the composter and let the batch finish in a pile on the ground or in another (ventilated) container. The bacteria will have consumed everything rats or raccoons would eat, so you don't have to worry about critters at that point. Fungus will continue to break down the carbon for a few more months. Tip: Shredded leaves are the best brown material and are, of course, free. This fall collect all the leaves you can from your neighborhood and just store them in plastic bags. They will slowly decompose over time, but they will be your free carbon source for composting throughout the year....See More1st time growing tomato
Comments (9)" Is it realistic to expect now that the uppermost tips were cut, the suckers will to come off low on the main stem or will they sprout near where the tips were last cut?" It depends in part on the type of plant - determinate or indeterminate - and you have no way of knowing that. But in general, no or minimal new growth below as those nodes have aready been sealed and bypassed by the circulatory system. Most will develop from the node just below the cut. "Pruning helps with air flow and prevent diseases that enjoy moist environments. It's more troublesome to begin pruning infected leaves after disease sets in than it is to pick off suckers before diseases." It is broad statements like that, which over 20 years of research does not support, that are so misleading to inexperienced growers. It is old "garden lore" and some cling to that claim because they don't understand the real underlying causes. For one, the fungi that cause all the common tomato diseases are air borne as well. And heavy pruning only further exposes the limited number of fruit to pests and sun scorch and reduced energy due to restricted photosynthesis. Second, proper spacing, placement, support, and water application methods do far more to reduce moist environments than any pruning does. Third, pruning does not mean simply removing the so called "suckers" (they are actually lateral branches). If a plant must be pruned because it exists in an overly wet environment or because it lacks good air circulation then one can simply carefully thin out some of the leaf branches in whole or part and leave the lateral branches fruit producing ones in place. And fourth, failing to remove disease infected foliage only encourages spread of the fungus/bacteria within the plant. Just some points to consider. And again,all this is discussed in more detail on the Tomato forum here directly linked on this forum's front page. Dave...See Moregreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
13 years agolarke
13 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
13 years agolarke
13 years ago
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greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a