I use tomato tone - 2 cups for 5 gallon bucket swc .

That is actually a somewhat difficult question for me to answer because my understanding of tomato nutrient requirements has changed recently as I have looked at the results of tissue analysis done on plants growing and producing well. Previously if I had to choose between those 2 I would have chosen the 18-18-21 in order to avoid having nitrogen be the highest number. The only thing I wouldn't like about that ratio is the phosphorous is present in exponentially higher than needed amounts. My plans for this year are to use a 3-1-2 ratio (which is what the 24-8-16 is) for nearly everything including tomatos. I will also be using a 0-0-3 in combination to boost the K where it makes sense to do so. Using tissue analysis to indicate what tomatos need and when, here is how it breaks down: From seedling to 5 leaf stage: (N 3 to 5) (P 0.3-0.6) (K 3 to 5) From 5 leaf stage to first flower: (N 2.8-4) (P 0.2-0.4) (K 2.5-4) During early fruit set: (N 2.5-4) (P 0.2-0.4) (K 2.5-4) At the first ripe fruit: (N 2-3.5) (P 0.2-0.4) (K 2-4) Harvest period: (N 2-3) (P 0.2-0.4) (K 1.5-2.5) Notice the trend here. Pretty much the entire life cycle the tomato performs best with fairly even amounts of N and K and very little (relatively speaking) P. Having the N a little higher than the K seems to be what the plants actually want (though only a tiny amount higher). To be honest with you I don't know which is going to work better for you and I think either will produce acceptable results. Something to be aware of is that tomatos (and many other plants) will use more calcium, magnesium and sulfur than they will phosphorus so make sure you are providing those as well for best growth. The MG won't have them. Lastly, I recently posted this, which is meant to assist veggy growers in making their own determinations as to 'what is the best fertilizer'. I think you will find the information beneficial.

Garaj, You have read my 2004 experiment. My 2005 experiment had a 2 inch stripe of 6 10 6 fertilizer on the surface under the cover. The container never got any top water since we were in our dry season. The Prudens Purple was a beautiful 6 ft. plant, loaded with blossoms but none of them set. The Lithuanian wasn't as pretty a plant but only got 5 fruit. The Prudens in the soil right next to the cotainer produced 47 fruit and the Lithuanian 55 fruit and the greatest was 85 fruit from Sudduth Brandywine. I seem to be getting more fruit from my soil each year since I started mulching with grass clippings. I did everything the same as last year except the fertilizer stripe and no soluble Miracle Grow. If you have any further questions I'll e mail my phone number. Fred

Couple of questions if you don't mind? First, why the capillary matting? Do you have hundreds of seedlings so that just normal bottom watering as needed would be too difficult? Capillary matting is notorious for over-watering plants and causing root rot. That is unless you let it dry out well between watering. It also tends to build up salts and bacteria on the matting over time so it needs to be well-disinfected on a regular basis. Second, given that young seedlings need so little feeding/fertilizing and need it in a well-diluted strength, how difficult would it be to just lightly water them with a diluted liquid fertilizer once or maybe twice before transplanting them to the garden? But if this is the way you want to go then I'd say, yes, take them off and fertilize off the matting. Trying to mix it in the water means the mat will bind it in the mat itself so minimal if any will get to the plants. Dave