Hey there everyone. Thanks for the replies! Ken: Well I was mostly just trying to help them get answers to their questions. I know for me personally I'd start a new thread for a question like that as opposed to burying in an old thread. As for loving them too much, well, I definitely am not one to do that! haha. as it is I have been doing Miracle Grow as I said, normal strength, once to at most twice per growing season. Usually just as the buds fully open, then once in mid summer. I do it about 1/2 strength. As you can see the results . I may water once or twice to the point of water coming out of the bottom, but then again it is a very porous mix that I'm using too so even that is not alot of water. I don't wanter a whole lot honestly. If there is reasonable rain I cut the watering way back. I check them about once a week or so and if they are DRY 2" or so down into the mix then ill do a watering. The main reason I even asked about ferts was mainly to gather thoughts on using a conifer specific type of fert as opposed to the general, all plant nature of MG. I suppose though that sticking with what has worked is my best bet. Will: Thank you! I've always admired how great yours look in containers as well. It's shown me that it can be done and done well and that's what I'm going for. I 'm going to upgrade a few others as well. Most have (or had) been in their new homes for 3 years now. While some were probably fine I like to err on the side of giving more room than not having enough. I think that is how I killed the horstmann blue dwarf, by NOT upgrading it fast enough. (ive killed a few others as well from not enough attention to the containers.) Granted it was a larger plant though. The Picea Omorika 'Bruns' was at its limit. One more growing season in that pot and I likely would not have been able to get it out of the ground (the roots were well into the ground through the bottom of the pot) and / or it would have died from not enough space / dessication. This upgrade for that one should last 3-4 years, and may be its last upgrade before needing to go into the ground. The P. Mugo Fastigiata are getting separated into their own containers to give them a bit more room. However nothing near as large of a change as what I did for the P. Omorika. They are much smaller plants in general and I think have adapted to more cramped spaces among rocks high in the mountains. I also think that the P. Sylvestris 'Gold Coin' ( if it makes it through it s scale infestation which is fairly bad) and the P. Strobus 'Elf' will likely be fine for another few years in their new homes as they have PLENTY of room and are not exactly fast growers. Josh: Yea I think I am going to keep doing what I have been since my results have been great to this point. As I said I was just looking for opinions on possibly using a conifer specific fert to maybe boost / enhance them a little bit. But hey, if it aint broke don't fix it right? Thanks again all! As always I'd love to see more photos of container conifers!

Regarding mercury in lights: The CFL mercury nightmare Steven Milloy, Financial Post, April 28, 2007 How much money does it take to screw in a compact fluorescent light bulb? About US$4.28 for the bulb and labour -- unless you break the bulb. Then you, like Brandy Bridges of Ellsworth, Maine, could be looking at a cost of about US$2,004.28, which doesn't include the costs of frayed nerves and risks to health. Sound crazy? Perhaps no more than the stampede to ban the incandescent light bulb in favour of compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs). According to an April 12 article in The Ellsworth American, Bridges had the misfortune of breaking a CFL during installation in her daughter's bedroom: It dropped and shattered on the carpeted floor. Aware that CFLs contain potentially hazardous substances, Bridges called her local Home Depot for advice. The store told her that the CFL contained mercury and that she should call the Poison Control hotline, which in turn directed her to the Maine Department of Environmental Protection. The DEP sent a specialist to Bridges' house to test for mercury contamination. The specialist found mercury levels in the bedroom in excess of six times the state's "safe" level for mercury contamination of 300 billionths of a gram per cubic meter. The DEP specialist recommended that Bridges call an environmental cleanup firm, which reportedly gave her a "low-ball" estimate of US$2,000 to clean up the room. The room then was sealed off with plastic and Bridges began "gathering finances" to pay for the US$2,000 cleaning. Reportedly, her insurance company wouldn't cover the cleanup costs because mercury is a pollutant. Given that the replacement of incandescent bulbs with CFLs in the average U.S. household is touted as saving as much as US$180 annually in energy costs -- and assuming that Bridges doesn't break any more CFLs -- it will take her more than 11 years to recoup the cleanup costs in the form of energy savings. The potentially hazardous CFL is being pushed by companies such as Wal-Mart, which wants to sell 100 million CFLs at five times the cost of incandescent bulbs during 2007, and, surprisingly, environmentalists. It's quite odd that environmentalists have embraced the CFL, which cannot now and will not in the foreseeable future be made without mercury. Given that there are about five billion light bulb sockets in North American households, we're looking at the possibility of creating billions of hazardous waste sites such as the Bridges' bedroom. Usually, environmentalists want hazardous materials out of, not in, our homes. These are the same people who go berserk at the thought of mercury being emitted from power plants and the presence of mercury in seafood. Environmentalists have whipped up so much fear of mercury among the public that many local governments have even launched mercury thermometer exchange programs. As the activist group Environmental Defense urges us to buy CFLs, it defines mercury on a separate part of its Web site as a "highly toxic heavy metal that can cause brain damage and learning disabilities in fetuses and children" and as "one of the most poisonous forms of pollution." Greenpeace also recommends CFLs while simultaneously bemoaning contamination caused by a mercury-thermometer factory in India. But where are mercury-containing CFLs made? Not in the United States, under strict environmental regulation. CFLs are made in India and China, where environmental standards are virtually non-existent. And let's not forget about the regulatory nightmare in the U.S. known as the Superfund law, the EPA regulatory program best known for requiring expensive but often needless cleanup of toxic waste sites, along with endless litigation over such cleanups. We'll eventually be disposing billions and billions of CFL mercury bombs. Much of the mercury from discarded and/or broken CFLs is bound to make its way into the environment and give rise to Superfund liability, which in the past has needlessly disrupted many lives, cost tens of billions of dollars and sent many businesses into bankruptcy. As each CFL contains five milligrams of mercury, at the Maine "safety" standard of 300 nanograms per cubic meter, it would take 16,667 cubic meters of soil to "safely" contain all the mercury in a single CFL. While CFL vendors and environmentalists tout the energy cost savings of CFLs, they conveniently omit the personal and societal costs of CFL disposal. Not only are CFLs much more expensive than incandescent bulbs and emit light that many regard as inferior to incandescent bulbs, they pose a nightmare if they break and require special disposal procedures. Yet governments (egged on by environmentalists and the Wal-Marts of the world) are imposing on us such higher costs, denial of lighting choice, disposal hassles and breakage risks in the name of saving a few dollars every year on the electric bill? - Steven Milloy publishes JunkScience.com and CSRWatch.com. He is a junk-science expert and advocate of free enterprise, and an adjunct scholar at the Competitive Enterprise Institute.

Hahaha I will keep that in mind! Before long I'm sure I'll be posting on here with a whole new slew of rock-health-growthrate-and-pruning questions. I forgot to mention that rocks are part of the plan here already... We live right across the street from a large creek with more than enough to spare a few in the middle of the night... Is that frowned upon? I hope not. Ron, thanks for sharing! Tell me what your conifers are there if you don't mind. I assume the purple plant is lavender? I might do a bit of that myself, always loved lavender. It's definitely looking good out there, interested in seeing what else you added this year. I'm not sure what dianthus is so I googled it and there must be hundreds that all look different so I'll check em out at the nursery and then come home and google the ones I like. Ironically, I might have one on the side of the house (not either side I pictured) that I asked you all to ID for me when we bought the house. I have to go look in my old posts. If it *is* dianthus, ours is way huge and the previous owners planted it too close to the house, along with other stuff. I do also love some of the sedums, especially when that bright yellow one is right next to the blue one. Great ideas here, thanks everyone!

Yea Tom, I dunno. I think I would take it a step further. Unless you are able to consistently water your plants on an almost daily basis, I can't see the true gritty mix working out too well. I overwintered those Japanese maple seedlings in my garage, and they obviously didn't need much moister as they were dormant... but the gritty mix simply holds very little moister, so when I did water it didn't retain enough moister. I know those seedlings died of thirst. I tried using the gritty mix for seedlings too and that was a disaster. Peat/Perlite is definitely king for seedlings, and the Al's 5:1:1 is good for longer term potted plants. I'm just not sure of many applications that would work well with the gritty mix. But the 5:1:1 doesn't seem like a unique creation, it's basically what all the good nurseries use for their mail order conifers. The understock abies I received from Jason Hupp were basically in a 5:1:1 mix, and they did great.