Ehrlicheer is banned from the house due to fragrance, as well as falconet. I like them both in the garden but in the house it's too much for me. But keep in mind that I don't like paperwhites either - I just wanted to mention my two most fragrant!

I know I'm not 'tropical' (right now I wish!!!) - However, I know the jonquils really 'dig in' and pull themselves down quite deeply to the cooler zones of the soil, so the bulbs stay at a more even temperature. For me they are the first to show leaves and the last to lose them - so they're definitely around as summer comes in, and can take a fair bit of heat. I'm not sure about sustained heat, though, and the equability of tropical areas. On checking through the books on hand - they're suggested for the northern parts of Australia - and in the warmer zones of South Africa. My own local reference puts them as good for zone 10. (You could try a search on the Oz Forum for jonquils in Northern Territory and Queensland.) If you can manage morning sun and afternoon shade, plus reliable water and a deep but free-draining soil it is probably worth trying them.

Usually daffodil bulbs are planted in autumn in time to catch autumn or winter rains. Over the cooler months they first develop roots and then put up their leaf shoots. As the weather becomes warmer the leaves grow very rapidly and the flower stems begin to emerge. When the flowers have finished it pays to feed the plants with some tomato fertiliser. This helps the bulb to form the buds for the next season. As the spring moves into summer the leaves gradually become yellow, wither, and die right back. This is normal. The bulb is taking a rest over the dry season. Some daffodil types - such as Earlicheer, start into growth before the trumpet-style daffodils - and keep their leaves for much longer. If they are living through a wet summer (or someone is watering them) it will take much longer for them to go into resting. But they do need to rest. While they are growing the bulbs are also creating offsets - small bulbs - which stay attached to the main bulb until they are big enough to flower. This may take a couple of years. Over that time all you will see are leaves. At this time of the year stop watering. Let the leaves die back. Let the soil in the pot become seriously dry. (It can take ages, particularly if the weather becomes cooler. The plants just aren't using so much. If you add more the bulbs might rot because the roots also die right back.) The bulbs need to stop growing for a while. Later on, maybe November or December, repot the bulbs into fresh mix and water them once. If they were growing in the ground they would start making their roots in summer, making use of whatever water is reaching them. This is always a good time to thin out the bulbs so they aren't too crowded in the pots. Early daffodils really bulk up and have big roots systems, too. After that, I would wait until the soil is dry at least an inch down in the pot before watering again. There's no need to feed them at this time. They have plenty of food already stored. If your drought has eased, and you can put your bulbs out in the yard to catch the rain, you could do that - probably on the south east side to catch the morning sun. Make sure your pots have 'feet' under them so the pots are well-drained. Earlicheers and daffodils like them begin to flower in the early spring - whatever that month is for you. Perhaps February/March. If they don't flower for you next year - don't despair. If you can plant them in the ground in a sunny place where they can delve down and which also gets ample rain they should flower again for you the following year. Or you can let them grow on in the pot - feed after flowering time, let them dry off, and get back into their cycle of production. Personally, I don't think you need to put the bulbs in the fridge to have success in flowering. If your local temperatures are extreme, however, it would be prudent to put the pot/s into a cool zone on the northern side of your house over the hottest months of the year.

I don't know how practical that pot in pot technique would be in reality. You have to dig a hole to put the pot in anyway and then leave it, presumably all winter. By the time you get to putting the second pot in it I would imagine it would have quite a bit of mulch and debris in it. IMO clearing that out of each pot would take as much effort as digging a hole from scratch when you need it. I use something similar to change the displays in my window boxes, but I never use a second empty pot in the soil. I just always have a pot of something in the hole.