"If I remove one branch of the "Y", wouldn't that destroy overall shape of the tree? I thought we need to train the tree to wine glass/ tulip shape?" Bluesky, That's the shape I like best and grow all my peach trees to an "open vase". I was really just brainstorming on how you might prune your peach tree. I've never tried to grow a peach next to a wall and I assumed yours may not be getting enough sun (partly because of the wall and partly because of the lack of vigor in the tree). My idea was to grow your trunk really tall (above the deck fence) before the tree is allowed to branch out, so all the foliage would be above the deck wall in full sun. Now that I understand your tree was planted in late summer, that's probably normal amount of growth and your tree may well be getting enough sun behind the deck wall. In that case, you could train it to a typical low vase/open-center tree and keep both branches of the "Y". You might want to train more of the tree's structure away from the deck fence. It makes for a lop-sided tree, but I've done it for some of my trees planted close to property lines in my backyard. One last thing, if you are going to train the tree to a low open-center, I'd probably pull the two branches of the "Y" down a little bit. Just take a couple clothes hangers, straighten them out and push them in the ground as far as you can (these will be anchors). Then bend the two branches down some (but not so far that they break) and tie the the branches down with some string.

This "Native Arkansas" fig guy drives me nuts with his really awkward listings, then insults people at the same time. I bought one also and it died, it was also shipped in the box just like that, it arrived half open with upside down ALL THE SOIL POURING OUT. He was a pain when email him about the poor condition of the tree when shipped. I hope you left negative feedback! I bolded some of the stuff he says. Here is what he says about the Ark fig(arrr): I found this fig tree when I bought this very very old house over a 100 years old. It still has a well in the back and the walls were just 2 by 12 stood straight up. The Fig Tree had lots of very old looking large roots that ran along the bank of the creek but the tree was almost dead from the lack of light. So I cut the trees around it and BOOM the next year it came back huge with more figs than I count. The figs are sweet as sugar and are a golden light brown when ripe. This is not a Brown Turkey fig. This is a very hardy native Hot Springs Ar fig. It is not a hybrid of any kind. It is also very cold hardy. It freezes pretty hard up here. This year we had a very very late freeze. (note photo another fig in my yard with burnt leaves) my other figs lost most of there fruit this tree lost none. This fig tree has been here as long as the house. No one seems to know what the name of the fig is so I am going to call it. Historic Ar Fig Tree I am a fig tree collector and I have never seen a fig tree like this. It is very Cold Hardy very sweet. Grows Fast. 2quart plant one plant growing on one container Rooted in Full sun Ready to go in full sun pretty heavy so shipping 12.99 this is a very very hardy fig if you kill it you had to realy mess up!!! all plants sold as is no refund no returns people do strange things with plants. Happy Bidding :) all figs I sell are self polinating all plants sold as is I am not resoponsble if fig dies people do strange things with plants. Here is the other one called a Capitola long big green: one one gallon CARICA CAPITOLA LONG fig makes large green yellow figs with long neck on the figs center is white very sweet. one crops hot summers makes figs sweeter I have only one like this to sell the price is the price sold as is no refunds people do strange things with plants

re stumps - in the woodland area, I wouldn't be in a big hurry to get rid of them, other than to cut them down as low as possible. It can get very dry in woodland conditions. Rotting wood will hold a lot of moisture so planting new things next to a rotting stump or log can really help with survival when planting in an area where you might not be able to get to with a hose. We had a dead pine and a sick pussy willow taken down last fall. When we planted a new 'Wolf Eyes' dogwood to replace the one that died last winter, we planted it next to the pine stump to give the dogwood a source of moisture and nutrients. We put some logs from the dead pine on a dry bank at the back fence so the logs can hold moisture for the things we try to grow in that area. We moved our 'Empress Wu' hosta to beside the willow stump for the same reason. There are other logs, a dead apple tree trunk, and a few dead branches scattered through the woodland beds as moisture and nutrient sources for the plants. So I'd only grind out or otherwise remove stumps from areas where you want to grow lawn but definitely leave them in the woodland area - and maybe even in 'garden' areas too depending on what you want to grow there and whether it would be useful to have a natural moisture sponge and nutrient source for them. There used to be a big old white spruce where our big front bed is. When we had the tree taken down the stump was left, cut off at ground level. It's rotted away completely now and the soil in that area is better than in the rest of the bed!

Maybe you wet them too much? I don't water them until mother leaf is drying up, or plantlets are quite big. Many don't get water for a long time. Some don't even get any substrate, like these here: Those are leaves I was about to toss, but ended up left on that lid and soon started to grow. They are on a table about 2ft away from the window (and that has lots of plants on the shelves), so not getting much light. They were never watered or misted. As you can see, few leaves are completely dry, 1 already detached. They were left on a lid in September, photo above just taken. I am not saying you should do same, just showing how resilient and easy to grow many leaves/plants could be. I find that less fussing about the leaves gets better results :) - more like neglecting them, not killing with too much attention. I am sure some leaves are less eager to grow, and some won't at all, but most are quite easy. I can see that there is quite a bit of 'shade' created by placing leaves too low inside of cells - next time, use more soil or shallower tray (less soil is better IMO). I grow many plants and vegetable seedling to be planted in the garden, from seeds. As soon as seedlings grow, I put them under lights, gradually stronger and stronger until they are in full light for at least 12hrs. Otherwise, I end up with very etiolated and weak seedlings. Similar with the plantlets growing from leaves - IMO, they are better if properly acclimatized to best light possible.